Photos: Island Swapping With Ethan
Photos: Island Swapping With Ethan
In early October, Gold Coast-based photographer Josh Bystrom thought his time on Namotu was up. He'd spent a month there as staff photog, caught a number of good swells, including one that Jack Robinson, Joao Chianca, and Yago Dora had flown in for, and was ready to head home.
Yet one more swell appeared on the forecast, and word was Ethan Ewing was leaving his North Stradbroke home to catch it.
Josh delayed his exit to watch the world's pre-eminent style master ride Cloudbreak, the newly-minted CT location. The following text was penned by Josh on the plane ride home.
I’ve been in Fiji for just under a month and seen three solid swells during this time, two of which were incredible, laced with long period energy, while the other didn’t quite live up to its potential but by traditional standards was still pretty bloody good.
As I write this, Cloudbreak and Restaurants are still pumping, and they will be again in a few more days as another swell is about to enter their swell window.
During this time I’ve seen a steady increase of big names visiting the island chain which is a little out of the norm. So too is the relentless swell the South Pacific served up through September and October.
Once again, Fiji is well and truly on the radar of professional surfers, from Jack, Joao, and Kai Lenny a few weeks ago, to Ethan Ewing, this week’s big name in the line-up.
Having visited Fiji only three times previously, Ethan explained his reason for the visit: to surf big hollow lefts. Something in short supply at his island home. Ethan travelled with fellow North Stradbroke Islanders, his brother Curt, and Bede Durbidge.
Bede, having surfed on the WCT for thirteen seasons, provided insider knowledge on the area: where to sit at Restaurants, the best waves to look out for at Cloudy, while also keeping the froth factor high whenever a crazy wave thundered along the reef at Cloudbreak.
Ethan took to the water, immediately making his presence felt, dissecting lips on triple-overhead waves with his smooth backhand flow. His prowess under the lip also made apparent with some of the best backhand barrel riding I’ve ever seen out there, ducking and weaving under the lip and then putting on the E-brake at the end to maximise that last little bit of tube time.
His back injury, incurred in August at Teahupoo, seemingly not a factor in any of the decisions made out there in some pretty testing conditions.
In addition to his incredible style, Ethan is also a humble fellow, going out of his way to chat with the guests on Namotu island and an ol' photographer like me.
Vinaka vakalevu, Ethan, we can’t wait to see you on tour next year and of course back here in Fiji.
Comments
Great photo-essay, very much enjoyed this!
So sick! Back home in time to catch some more Cylinders, tough life.
Ethan went there because he wanted to surf big hollow lefts. Epic. I wonder if Fellipe reads stuff like this and still feels like a world champ?
Would be surprised if Felipe cares. If he did care he would have done something about it last year but he didn't. He is world champ regardless of what anyone says. Bit like CJ and his title - not that you can compare them...CJ charged the big stuff. I'm interested to see what happens at Chopes during the Olympics - my understanding is Filipe is in at the expense of either Gabriel or Italo (or Joao) all who charge out there. Will he give up his spot for one of them? Can he? If he is allowed to give up his spot does he have to do it an advance or can he wait for the last minute and see if a big swell is coming?
Is it ok to say, those photos weren't very good? Or is that a stylistic thing?
Great action and surfers but not very good pics. Putting it out there. Feedback welcome.
Tough conditions with the offshores swimming, can't win them all, thanks for the feedback.
You swam that? Bloody hell I assumed you were in a boat or the tower. That’s hectic, great work mate!
Thanks mat, yeah usually always swim, any shots I get from the boat just refuelling between water sessions. Tower doesn't exist anymore and boat angle always looks the same. Problem being swimming with the strong trades you cop a lot of spray off the back of the wave. I have to quickly clean the front of the housing port with a squeegee before the next ones on top of me, very fun but can be trialling!
That's insane. There must be a huge amount of water moving around. I went there 16 years ago, and when we got to Cloudy it was 3' and perfect - would have been the best day ever of lefts where I live. When I asked the Fijian skipper why no one was out he said "It's flat" - Hahaha
I thought they were rugged and beautiful. Definitely transplanted me from behind my desk into the channel. Having only witnessed it at 4 foot i could only imagine how much water, wind and spray Josh would have to compete with.
PS Curtis rips!
Many of the photos looked like they could do with a faster shutter to freeze motion - but this requires increasing the ISO = grainy photos. Could you have used a lower f-stop instead? The first 2 are better with the light shining on the surfer, and the Eden Hage shot is great - who wouldn't love a shot of themself in a keg like that one!
The Bede Durbidge shot looks like it's shot at a million ISO, and is so grainy I'd delete it. As the caption suggests it's probably shot after sunset - maybe a flash would help in that scenario??
Yep correct, Bede shot at dusk in low light with high ISO and lowest F Stop. From memory I was maxing out how low I could go with the shutter speed to try to get it as sharp as possible with the dying light. Should I have cracked a beer at that point in the boat instead of shooting? Probably. That being said all of the best photos don't necessarily go into my submission if they don't tie in with the story.
APS-C (crop) sensor or full frame? I have generally found with my crop sensor cameras they get too grainy for my liking above ISO800, whereas with full frame up to 1600 gives decent results. The latest and greatest would likely be better again. I bought a full frame for exactly this scenario - taking evening storm photos and unless there's powerful lightning strikes I couldn't freeze cloud motion (1-2 second exposure max during blue hour) enough while avoiding an overly grainy photo.
Didn't realise you were swimming, thought you may have been on a ski. Now I see some of the angles/hook ups I can tell.
Tough gig swimming when the spray is flying about. Well done.
I enjoyed the shots- to me they captured perfectly the mood of surfing Cloudbreak at that size and time of day.
It's kind of dreamy, heavy and intense all at the same time.
Jeez, Ethans brother can pack 'em!
I surfed there the week that Jack R, Kai etc flew in, caught a good swell but not the energy that the boys tapped into. It was my first time in the water there, a bucket list destination and I couldnt agree more with your observation of the shots. Yes, Cloudbreak is perfect but perfect in the same way Pipe is and these shots put me right back in the line up.
Fucken hell, tough crowd.
The photos made me want to be there, so they’ve done their job I reckon.
I would think a number of times going there to surf that size unless you are a pro or close to, it is heavy and fast, the wipe outs horrendous and the paddle rounds a marathon. If you get caught in a wash through good luck.
I was there this year and it got that big and yep all of those things you mentioned.
Would love another chance at it though knowing what it’s like now
Thanks for the feedback Josh. Obviously its no simple thing to take photos from the water. I appreciated the details of what went into the pics. No offense was meant. Pure curiosity. Cheers bru
I’m of the school of if you’ve nothing constructive to say don’t say it. Just before I’d read the negative shot comment I’d thought ’what a cool bunch of images’... Tech is meh if it has no feeling and these are full of the moment. Swimming, mayhem going on and enough passion to hang for as long as the light went to get some more. For a few minutes this morning I was there… Top stuff Josh.
The third shot of Eden Hage.... and the second last one of Kurt, epic shots! Too easy these days to get caught up pixel picking and forget to step back and take the whole scene in. Well done mate some classic shots in there
I thought the photos were great. Very evocative of the evening light and the trades blowing creating texture in the lip. Brings back a lot of memories from a bunch of trips there long ago. It’s an open ocean wave with water moving and different angles to the swell lines coming in. The pics recreate the imperfect perfection of the place. Thanks Josh.