A Non-Surfer’s Surf Trip
“Pride comes before the fall,” as the saying goes, and aren’t I just a proud little munchkin, bounding down the Angas Point steps, fresh-risen sun setting the small southerly swell all a-sparkle. Textbook late-May Northern Rivers. Clear as a bell.
Like many of us on the crusty side of 50, I’ve been battling bursitis-buggered shoulders for ages – a legacy of three decades’ paddling into Burleigh’s conveyor-belt sweep. For the last few years, however, it seemed I’d reversed the trend! Thanks to a self-devised strengthening and stretching program, I’d been surfing mostly pain-free, and paddling my clubbie ski around Clarence waterways on dusk like a demon. I’d cracked the code! Go Me!
This particular morning: I’d walked an hour before the sun lifted off the horizon, done my stretches and various exercises at my quiet little cove with only an impassive Brahminy Kite looking on. With a full-ish tide and marginal swell energy, the Point would barely be breaking, but I know my mate Peely – a recent transplant to the area – will be out there, frothing. It’s not worth going home for my shooter, so I figure I’ll drive ‘round to the Point, swim out and commandeer Peely’s board for a single wave, just to complete an epic start to the day. Life Be In It and all that.
“You’re killing it, Murdoch!” – I don’t actually say this out loud as I bolt down the stairs, jump out of my trakky daks, enter the water in boardies and start swimming out to the lineup, heading for Peely and his distinctive maroon shooter – but I may as well, because that’s so what I’m thinking.
And then it happens. Halfway out, there’s a snap, crackle and pop as (I discover later) the supraspinatus tendon in my left shoulder tears itself a new one. It’s not too agonising, but it registers as a sharp new type of pain, and instinctively I know it’s trouble.
Peely hands the board over and I do my best to get a wave as quickly as possible – not easy with the lack of sets and a crowd nudging double figures. Eventually I’m forced to take off in front of Every-Wave-Dave, who rides behind me with a good-natured smile.
In lieu of an actual photo of the incident, we ask the reader to suspend disbelief as Gra, at left with a wounded shoulder, drops in on Every-Wave-Dave
It’s been over four months since that wave, and I’m not sure when my next ride’s gonna be. Cry me a river. Surf long enough and you’ll find yourself sidelined sooner or later. We all deal with it.
An intriguing variation on this all-too-common theme emerged recently, however, when I went on an actual bloody surf trip while unable to surf.
It wasn’t just any old surf trip though, it was a mate’s 50th birthday getaway to Maqai, a delightful little joint tucked away on Qamea Island in Fiji. The trip had been repeatedly pushed back due to life getting in the way, so Birthday Boy Braddo was now nearly 53. I’d signed up before the injury and Braddo kindly gave me an out, saying he’d understand if I pulled the pin, but given my appalling record of no-shows at significant friends and family events, and Braddo being one of my all-time best-ever mates, and the fact that I’ve never been to Fiji, I was more than happy to head over.
I was expecting the week to present me with a mild existential crisis of sorts – and maybe it would have, had the waves been on the cook – but the surf was pretty average, so my psyche was never really put to the sword.
Nonetheless, there were instructive moments of weirdness, frustration, and revelation. My lower vertebrae rejoiced at not having to lug a coffin bag hither and yon; it was oddly liberating to not care about the forecast; and a privilege to spend a week in Maqai’s rustic embrace – particularly to confirm first-hand the truth that Fijians are the most genuinely open-hearted and lovely people, er, “on the planet” – as Pottz might have put it in commentary mode. (Seriously, though, you can’t not be moved by the ingrained joy, the spirit, the heart and soul…and the singing…Fijians, they’ve got the music in ’em, hey. )
I got a sense of how things play out for the countless non-surfing partners who’ve accompanied their other halves to surf-centric resorts over the last few decades, (a mix of melancholy and Ahhhh, finally some peace…when the surfers pile into the boat and head out for hours on end). I got to see and appreciate the way the staff change gears and get shit done when the guests aren’t in the way.
Freed of the burden of surfing, Gra sips his mimosa by the pool and waits for the boys to return.
It’s funny. The further inland I took myself from the shoreline, the more connected I felt to surfing. For all its charm, Maqai doesn’t have much of a beach for walking, so a few times a day I’d pull myself up the lush, thickly-treed escarpment that rises dramatically behind the resort, up along the ridge where – with a bit of scrambling over boulders and some precarious balancing – nosebleed views of various reef passes and across to Taveuni filled my surfer’s heart with curiosity and desire. Depending on the sun, the clouds, and the light, the vistas were sometimes Mentawai, sometimes Tahiti, sometimes Kauai, sometimes Otways. And the scarp itself – a riot of ancient Banyan Figs, palms, ferns, and leaf litter – was strikingly similar to the south face of Burleigh Headland: the joint that fucked my shoulder in the first place.
I wish I could say I grew as a person, or gained some insight after a week of non-surfing on a surf trip, but I’m still the self-absorbed bastard I always was. The guys would come back from a session, report to me that it was pretty ordinary, and I’d put forth a convincing performance of someone who was truly gutted on their behalf, but if I’m honest (and if you’re reading this Cooky, Grassy, Lex, Braddo, and Geoff, I’m sorry) a not-insignificant part of me was privately punching the sky.
If there was anything to be learnt, I suppose I had front-row seats to the ‘coming soon’ trailer of the movie, starring myself, that’ll be showing in a heartbeat: instead of being 57, I’ll be 67, 77, 87…and if I’m lucky enough to still be around down the track, surfing will be hard, and then, at some stage, impossible.
So other fine things – friendship, laughter, nature, gratitude – will come increasingly to the fore, as they did at Maqai, and as they do every time we go surfing with mates.
I’ll give ya the word, though. I’m rehabbing like a demon right now. And first order of business will be to clear my debt to Every-Wave-Dave.
// GRA MURDOCH
Comments
Quick recovery to you!
Awesome Gra
So many things in life to find joy in, surfing both obstructs and amplifies!
Cheers Gra
All the best in recovery had the shoulder issues 4yrs ago bursitis( 20years of football ) dislocated ac joints when younger , it was the most difficult injury mentally and physically as a keen surfer I’ve experienced ..staying positive was the key..there always someone else who is going through life a lot worse injury illnesses etc..really enjoyed the article cheers
As a surf obsessed, adult grom - I’m gradually seeing the merit in not having my happiness tied up in cosmic forces I have no control over. Maybe it’s just a different season of life but I’m glad to have worked this out now.
Get strong Gra. See you at the point one day
Good work, Gra.
Rings a lot of bells. Supraspinatus tear in June, which improved quickly - allowing pain free surfing on our July Aussie holiday - then went south back in NZ. Patience and total dedication to rehab.
One joyful consequence is the now weekly Broga class (yoga for broken bodies), an all blokes affair, except for lovely Patti, the instructor. Regular crew of ~15 guys aged 35 to 83, retired builders and lifelong surfers. (73yo Chris still rides a Byrning Spears channel shorty when the points pump.)
One specific tip for dealing with one injured shoulder: I found myself unable to push up, my left shoulder collapsing causing board to veer right on takeoff - not ideal on left points. I started placing both hands along the stringer, balancing out the forces, and letting my take off, albeit a little slowly.
All the best to you, and the rest of us aging bastards.
Bloody oath Gra, the fedora and lei are a striking combination on this new you
Being a non-surfer on a surf trip is a luxury compared to the opposite...a surfer on a non-surf trip.
When I first met my wife and her circle of friends I went away on a few "beach holidays" with them where they'd wake up at 10am (great if you have your own transport, frustrating otherwise), spend the next hour deciding which beach they'd visit for the day, then while the tide was getting too low/too high and the seabreeze gathering strength they'd choose one without surf anyway.
Any appeal to increase my chances of surfing a half decent wave was met with ridicule as if I was inconveniencing them.
Very familiar Browny. Trying to explain tides, swell, winds to the partner or any other non-surfer gets met with slack-jawed silence, or worse, small-mouthed silence. Ah well, still on holiday, have a drink with an umbrella in it instead.
PS: Hope the wing mends soon Gra.
I'm five up on you. Double hernia two years ago (skinny fella always pushing it), unable to resist the joy of throwing my new, fast growing granddaughter in the air on command. That put me out for eight months all up. April this year I fuck up my left shoulder, paddling of course. Doctor says bursitis, I think - oh three -four weeks, nah six months desalinated. At the same time I tell doctor about annoying sensation of feeling like I permanently have water in left ear and can't hear properly. He takes a look and reports that my ear has completely closed up - Surfers Ear (which I always knew was coming), that needs surgery. So, fuck it, out for the best two seasons. So Tuesday last week, shoulder a bit better but not really, small waves on hand I decide I'll go anyway and give it a gentle test. Got a few using something like *the "Island Bay" method. Back out Friday morning thinking that was a reasonable recovery period. Fly to Melbourne Sunday and my left ear is decidedly bothered, each day gets worse. I think I have moisture in surfer's ear turning to infection. The last six months I have been contemplating the high and dry. And now? Yes, I believe I have an existential crisis. Oh well I have two grandsons to enjoy as well now. My right shoulder is still okay so I can look forward to shaping for three instead of one.
Great read and a lovely perspective....
Just been through my 3rd clavicle break and second surgery repair on the same shoulder. 3 weeks later was on a plane to a nice tropical location - to not surf. Fortunately, there wasn't many waves, so didn't really miss out.
Was kinda frustrating but also made me chill like you did. Although it makes me wanna get back in soonest...
All the best with your recovery.
Recently listened to a Water People Podcast hosted by Lauren Hill and Dave Rastavich with Dr Kevin Stone “How to play forever”. The Dr is a leading orthopaedic surgeon and specialist with a real focus on athletes including surfers. He believes that injuries can present opportunities. As a 70 year old I found this reinforcing to keep moving and paddling to keep surfing.
Great story. Best of luck with the shoulder mate. June last year I tore infra and supra spinatus off the bone while surfing in Indo (while I was acting caretaker of a little surfcamp btw) Got home to Oz (poor wife had to carry the triple boardbag for me) saw the surgeon, 2 months later the op is done, 6 weeks in a sling and 6 more months no surfing. Did the rehab and swimming thing, got into it slowly, then snuck out on a little 2 ft day at a local pointbreak on my own. First wave, paddled and stood straight up, rode it 30 metres and pulled off the wave . Nearly fuken started crying, got so emotional, felt good to be back! So it's been just over a year now since the op, paddling better than ever, even got another 3 week gig at the surfcamp again, surfed almost every day there and survived. Stoked. Turned 59 last month, sure glad I can still get out there... got lotsa mates my age that wanna keep surfing stuffed by injuries... :-(
engaging thoughts.. (yr the nubile side of 60, gra, enjoy!)
I'm dry-docked by a bad neck and a baby, but hope to be back soon.
A great read.
Stop using a pillow
I’ll second that piece of advice. Traditional pillows are bad for necks. My neck issue, which I’d had for years, cleared up almost overnight after moving to a (very expensive) aligned pillow.
Hang in Gra... I started surfing 5 months after a supraspinatus clean-out. Once I was under way it didn't take long to feel good in the water. Maybe you'll be similarly luckyand avoid the prospect of 12 month recovereis that the Drs like to quote. By my guess htis puts you on the cusp of surfing again v soon
As a man who recently completely snapped his achilles surfing one foot Adelaide Mid Coast, I feel your pain. I'm probably a year away from surfing again, but the mat is definitely coming out of the garage soon.
Went on a similar non-surfing surf trip a few years back because of an injury.
Would like to say I handled it with the same poise and dignity that you did Gra, but it wasn't to be.
I returned a bitter and twisted human being, temporarily spiteful of my mates, and nursing one hell of a hangover.
Never again.
I was an unwilling non-surfer there many moons ago. Not a great place to be skunked with the lack of room to move. Went a little stir crazy and did the walk up the hill many times haha, well jungly innit.
Yeah Sprout. It's an epic scramble hey! I was getting up there up to three times a day before 24 hours of heavy rain rendered it un-doable.
Nice! Amazing view up there. One guest spent the entire time killing and burying crown of thorns, lords work. The pyramid on the end of the left is fun at size, the right pumped the day after we left, then a cyclone flattened the place the day after that. Not a difficult rebuild, stick the poles back in the sand and hang canvas over them... accommodation looks alot nicer now though. Good snorkelling, shame the (not sure if current) owner keeps trying to destroy the reefs. It's not Fiji without a cabbage patch...
Lucked into three days of good waves on the right ( which is why Gra ended up on this trip) The word is the owner( articles on this website a while back) has now given up trying to blow up a section of reef to create a left and has sold to a Hawaiian consortium. They're going to turn the joint into a wellness resort, which is a shame because despite the place being fickle ,it was a amazing escape from crowds and the world, with a beautiful vibe and people.
The worse of shoulder injuries is putting on the new fangled chest zip steamer
Good read Gra and my story's a little different a I had a stroke 9 months ago which continues to affect my right arm and hand in particular, So although I finally started getting back into the surf several weeks ago I still find paddling onto waves a challenge and standing up also, For me its the case of use it or lose it,
I'd say look into the uses of DMSO (american atheletes use it a lot for strains and pains) and don't look into anything the FDA says about it.
Blessings for your full recovery Gra
Geez, that's a tough one, dd. What can you do to re train your right side? (Just realised that I'm totally ignorant re stroke rehab).
All the best with your comeback. Do the best you can!
It's a catalog of age induced surf injury woe amongst my surfing buddies at the moment. Getting old is character building.
Great read!
Like everyone else here I'm gonna try to surf for as long as I can.
But as you say "surfing will be hard, and then, at some stage, impossible."
My advice is to take the time to make peace with this,
commiserations - hope you get that shoulder well soon!
Grant me the serenity to accept when I cannot surf
Grant me the strength to surf when I can surf
Grant me the wisdom to know the difference.
Get well soon and hopefully the world will get to enjoy your great work on MD's story soon!