Gallery: Sequencing Last Week's Swell
Gallery: Sequencing Last Week's Swell
As the East Coast falls back into a state of calm, it's allowed time to edit a few sequences from last week's remarkable run of swell.
These shots, taken over two days, don't reveal the patience and dedication needed to surf this wave. It was slow with hollow ones only coming through every half an hour or more. But the rewards were there for those willing to hold the line as sets marched into the cliff.
First up is Sam Jones on a perfect double-up that looks more like oversized Nias - thick westuit and hood notwithstanding.
This wave is also today's Wave Of The Day photo, taken by Tim Bonython.
Next is Jimmy Connors. Jimmy snagged a bomb and made one of the more picturesque barrels.
You may have already seen the third shot in this sequence before. It's an incredible photo and few people could believe the surfer - Billy Langley - went on to make the wave.
What started with a regulation bottom turn off the flats, ended up with Billy hanging on by his toes with no rail engaged.
And finally we have Adam Darsley who hadn't surfed the place in over ten years. He was up there with Billy and Jonesy on navigating some of the trickier waves coming through, ending up with a high percentage of makes.
Dropping his helmet visor in the barrel is either a major flex or a sign there was more going on back there that we're aware of.
Comments
Helmet visor flex... Haha nice!!!! Great pics... Every single pic total commitment, Soo good,yeew
Must be cold water with steamers, hoddies, boots and hand jobs. Not even that cold here in Victoria yet (although very close). Tassie?
Manly, NSW. Water is about 19 degrees so pretty warm. They are wearing steamers due to the cool air temp and wind. Booties for protection from rocks and urchins, this place breaks in front of a cliff.
Unreal pics!!
Cheers, and it's more so the sitting for hours on end, not moving waiting for a set.
Thanks John and Craig certainly good waves and nice shots. I never remember urchins being such a problem back in the 70's and 80's are there more of them now and are they native?
Oh man, the ledges and reefs here are infested with them. Going for a snorkel on a flat day is eye opening. Most are in the pock holes but still if you get pushed down and unluckily use a foot to then try and surface, stepping on one will give you a headache.
Craig came up with this: 'When overpopulated, swarms of sea urchin will consume all living flora from the sea floor. This removes all habitat that juvenile fish, abalone, rock lobsters, molluscs, and bivalves would otherwise call home. These areas become what are known as barrens, and can take generations to recover.' My memory was correct they are in plague proportions in some areas due to warmer water (climate change) and the demise of predators. Really interesting https://www.dpi.nsw.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0007/1446991/Updated-R...
Evidently it's due to the over-fishing of the species that eat urchins. Over here in NZ it's mostly snapper that do that job. In Whitianga in the Coromandel you can do a glass bottom boat trip into a nearby marine reserve. Inside the reserve there's schools of Snapper, seaweed, and almost no urchins. Only a few hundred meters outside of the reserve there's only urchin (called Kina here) barrens and no seaweed. They were saying it's almost exclusively recreational fishing that's doing the damage.
Interesting!
Happened to me on Monday at winki the day after the Sunday was meant to be cooking. Foot got unlucky in a hole with no booties. Now dealing with 7 spines in my heel almost 2 weeks on
what do you want memlasurf, seeing the lads in nut huggers?
Epic Craig
Nah just thought a bit wossie when the water temp is 19º and we only decide at about 17º ton don a 2/3 and 14º to go the 4/3. At 19º it is short arm 2/2. However I will agree the wind was freezing down NSW south coast colder even than the famed Victorian cold.
Yes epic shots Craig.
Excellent shots, a shame the swell did not wrap into the Sunshine Coast...
Nice to see water shots out there and makes it look a lot friendlier for sure when you consider how close and parallel it breaks to the rocks. Botched take off and you are getting washed onto the rocks not a good spot to be in.
Hats of and a round of applause to all the surfers above, not to mention the photographer. And a special commendation to Jimmy Conners for the way he sets himself up for the barrel. Poetry.
Billy
Gee I didn't realise you had to be tough to surf.
These guys who have commented, sorry post, must remember no leg ropes and no wetsuit days.
What I appreciate is how well these young men surf on a break that rarely breaks and bigger waves are a novelty in Sydney which makes it all the more appreciated by surfers in Sydney that normally grovel around in relatively small beach breaks.
Our Victorian friend who explained when you should wear a 2/2 or 3/2 or4/3 thank you we would never have known.
Love the photos and videos. Thank you!