A Novel Way To Deal With Crowds
A lifetime of surfing and consuming surf media, and as far as I can remember I've never read a single word about how to cope, adapt, or even thrive in crowds. Hold that thought.
I spent the last two weeks of leave extensively testing two balsa boards (full review to come) across the full range of wave types found in North-Eastern NSW. Sand bottom points, boulder points, rock ledges, open beaches, enclosed coves, breakwall wedges, back beaches, and rock ledges.
Through that period crowds were variable. I surfed solo, with light crowds, and right up to full spectrum nuclear holiday crowds. Those crowds consisted of all the differing types of surfer now extant in the modern surf culture, ranging from absolute beginners, backpackers from every continent, sponnoed groms, QS aspirants (male and female), babes and walruses on logs, CT incumbents, retired CT legends with multiple world titles, cube monkeys on holidays, ancient mariners on the final strait home.
You name it, and I shared the water with them. We were, in aggregate, a crowd.
It got me thinking, and this process was further crystallised by a conversation with charter skipper Jody Perry who advanced the notion that crowds in the Mentawais could largely be mitigated by a bit of education and simple consideration. Something so simple seemed revolutionary and I tried to formulate a framework during this period of daily surfing in amongst summer crowds to mitigate the worst of it, even allowing for the possibility of enjoying it and thriving in amongst it.
I present my findings below for comments and criticisms.
Starting with the most radical proposition: even the most chaotic, aggressive crowd (Superbank, Pass, Noosa for example) can be improved by some simple behaviours, which I call 'creating zones of civility'. The people in your immediate circle can be competitors or comrades. By communicating with them and helping them catch a wave, you create the conditions for reciprocal behaviours.
In a chaotic crowded point the ability to steal an extra second by someone beside you calling you in if the inside rider has fallen (or calling no, if they are still up) is invaluable. It makes it safer. It gives confidence.
If you can create this small zone of allegiances with the immediate circle, complete strangers, it's amazing how many prime sets can be safely ridden in a huge crowd.
Not always, but even if it fails utterly as a strategy for snaring a set wave, you've created a better environment. Safer, more civil, more fun.
This isn't original thinking. Ethicists like our very own Peter Singer have identified the source of ethical behaviour in these reciprocal arrangements. They are widespread in our closest relatives, the Chimpanzee.
Even aggro, frothed out, testosterone-driven roosters can be coralled into this behaviour. Sure, they may be a little slow in the reciprocal aspect of it, but at least you have created a human connection which disrupts the urge for them to drop-in.
At the least, it gives you agency in a crowd.
Joyo's camp at G-Land in October had a frothing pack of Argentinians. They wanted a wave quota, they desired strongly their tube-of-a-lifetime at Speedies. I encouraged them, called them deeper, kept them moving. It created space for me, when my ticket came time to be cashed in.
A quiet word between comrades is apt here.
Before paddling into the maelstrom - let's use behind the rock at Snapper as an example - have you got the skills and the confidence in those skills to be able to cash in your ticket when it comes due? If not, would it really be so bad to start further down the line, find a little more space, if at all possible?
The less radical claim. Someone paddles out on top of you onto an isolated peak? Absolute total annoyance, I think we can all agree. Call 'em into their first wave. Message is: I see you and we'll be sharing this patch of water. We're going to sort it out, one way or the other. Hopefully taking turns and having fun and not hassling each other.
The absolute beginner backpacker who just has no business being anywhere near the peak take-off? Is it so hard for a brotherly or sisterly word of advice for them to move down the line and find a safer spot to take-off?
So hard to call a kid into a wave?
Give a wave, share a smile, as Owl Chapman so eloquently pleaded in 'Surfers the Movie'.
The leashless log careening in the whitewater that almost kills your kid? Punch the fin out and send them in. Kidding, kidding. But say something. I'm still working on a calm response to this one.
Talking to Derek Hynd before the sun rose at the Pass he shared with me the Makaha protocol. Paddling around with his head down as a young pro, trying to keep a low profile, Hynd was broadsided by a very large gentleman. “Hey brah, what's your problem?”
“Nothing, sir."
“Then come say hello and don't ignore us.”
My colleague Stu describes a similar situation at an isolated, remote Pacific Island. The incumbent surfers were tremendously offended Stu had not made overtures of friendliness upon arrival.
Sometimes, despite our reputation as rugged isolationists, we need to take what writer David Sedaris describes as the “opportunity to connect with someone”.
Surf rage gets the headlines, but it's the uncountable little positive interactions that determine the quality of the surf, no matter how big the crowd, for most of us, most of the time.
I'm just saying: you can rig that game in your favour.
// STEVE SHEARER
Comments
Some interesting ideas there, Steve. Not sure if I'm a walrus or an ancient mariner -- maybe both -- but surfing heavily localised breaks in Bali, particularly Medewi, I've always found that having a chat works. Identify the alpha male of the pack, paddle right up and congratulate him on his last wave. For good measure give him a hoot on his head dip cover-up on the next, and you're in the club.
excellent,
But can the the masses get it? So simple but we have become some what, what we curated or even encouraged. Our own shit storms amongst some lineups lost of all civility. Unless you prevent, regulate a shit show, windows of civility and ethical surf etiquette will diminish as many a generation or line up has seen worldwide.
The sad reality is far more surfers are uncivil towards each other than need be. Certain circles curated their own cluster fucks. And once no one gives a fuck it's over and never going back. from 1ft to 20ft the shit show continues, Humans curate their own mess.
Or you could just surrender to the chaos and tow every lineup and not give two fucks who you burn, run down or marginalise and capitalise for your own need regardless. (not all ski teams or surfers do this) in a get yours above all else approach regardless. It seems to have worked for some.
Just like the snake or perpetual drop in who isn't going to stop because apparently they are at war with all in the lineup above all else. Despite never quite making it publicly known how little they regard your efforts above their own importance.
So with frustration each surfer doing the right thing slowly turns to the dark side and gets their fill at the scarification of anything and all they see below them in their quest for self made glory above all else. (the clusterfuck evolves and becomes ingrained, in crowded or non crowded line ups) local to non local. big or small wave scenes. The damage is done. What could have been is no more than another curated shit show amongst the masses. Surfer made, line up to line up.
The two extreme sides of the coin are hostility and civility. With the reality somewhere in between. Happy new year and congratulations craig.
?si=sBZIRC4bR1mGISYmsooooo true.
perfect perfect perfect
Yes. Surfers love a compliment. Still can beat getting up super early.
If you want to see real summer surfing stupidity at its best get on the North Bondi surf lifesaving club's cameras, select the one looking down to the middle of the beach. Next to a massive pile of swimmers, many of whom can't swim to save themselves, is a mess of boardriders most of whom can't surf. Boards of all sorts, hard and soft, short and long, fly in all directions in knee to hip high dribble. The only time you can hope to catch anything vaguely worth surfing is in the hour on either side of high tide but even then face plants and drop ins are the go. Just another day of high summer thrills at Bondi bloody Bondi.
In my opinion, if you understand ego and are honest about ability (yours and theirs) then you have the tools to navigate a crowd successfully.
I will confess for a long period of time I was a complete c*nt in the water.
That guy.
Pure alpha ie. pure ego.
Head of the peak, every set wave, burn anyone I didn't know.
A pure representation of where I was in my life...purely unhappy and insecure...fabricating joy under the guise of dominance.
A false sense of control compensating for the rudderless mess my life on land had become.
I believe the surfing lineup is one of the best mirrors of animal behaviour in humans.
A pure animist pecking order with a full display of all its elements.
I can see the old me in almost any line up...and understanding the behaviour for most of these people make them almost the easiest to get waves off.
The beginner with no sense...the hardest...because they are only engaged in the act of trying to surf.
They have yet to graduate to a sense of comfort and become aware on the interplay going on in their surroundings.
Being fully aware of your ability against the next person will automatically place you and them in a perspective of superior/inferior...understand it and waves come.
Confuse it or push it and you will sow the seeds of all aggression and conflict.
It's just us and our levels of social conditioning framed in waves.
epic crg, the next bomb is yours happy surfing.
Crg, Your reflectiveness is what people need to hear. Without the aggression (and transference of an unhappy life) lineups will only feel better. Not always fair, but then that's the world!
Loved reading that mate, thanks for a great reflection and analysis.
It works and doesn’t work, I’ve politely pointed out to beginners that maybe a long interval swell at 6-8 foot north steyne isn’t for them and been told to fuck off (the most instant karma I’ve ever seen watching them (a couple no less) get caught by the set of the morning was priceless, girlfriend screaming at boyfriend. ). Have seen my kids get absolutely burnt at tiny points waves by intermediate surfers seeing an easy mark. Sometimes at pints especially with a sweep the turnover so high that small group camaraderie is flushed every set. Don’t have a good answer, some people receptive others too much ego
We live in an age where you can expect the response to any comment of perceived criticism, constructive or not, polite or not, correct or not, is "fuck you". Good faith adult communication with strangers is rare, immediate self-reflection on poor behaviour more so. I have friends - life long surfers - that can't even respond to "which way are you going?" when it's just the two of us on an a-frame peak. Good vibes works up to a point, critical mass crowds lowers that point by quite some margin.
Well said Sprout.
Great ideas there Steve.
The Paragragh starting "before paddling into the maelstrom" would solve crowd issues at a lot of breaks,maybe should be displayed at any decent wave site.
Plenty of kooks around that don't surf nearly as well as they think they do!
First rule of paddling out to a peak, point, beach break... anywhere....say "Hello". Especially in Indo - you always get a smile back and after a wave or two a good chat from the locals and all nationalities and abilities.
So true monkeyboy, and it works so well. In Indo the other thing is to chill, no hurry be friendly and polite ( works with locals, not necessarily everyone else though )and it will come. Rather friends than enemies.
As a battler, in chaotic summertime crowded point surf, I've always found that placing yourself near to those of lesser ability often pays dividends, not because you can drop in on them, but because they frequently paddle for and then miss waves, allowing you to reap some benefit slightly further down the line.
There's definitely less communication in the lineup. If you're not taking it, or you paddle and miss it tell someone! In general, in and out of the water, communicate with other people, its fun for you and them, you can learn so much and remember, listen too, that's when you really learn.
So true all that Steve. About a decade ago on an A plus day at a reef I regularly surf (along with many, many others) I was in the slot for a smoking set set wave and called in the guy on my outside. The truth was I was a bit rooted so decided to give it to him so I could rest a bit. He paddled back out confused as to why I didn't go and thanking me for letting him have it, said it was the best wave he'd had all year.
In the years since then I have surfed that break with him many times, we've never even introduced ourselves, I still don't know his name, but that guy has given me dozens of waves since then, even blocked guys and called me in. Giving waves away is one of surfing's hidden pleasures. I try to do it often.
With the hindsight of 60 years surfing, I can recommend looking elsewhere rather than putting oneself amid the chaos of ultra-crowds, unless you are a pro or up-and-comer seeking photos / recognition and with entourage - that aspect still amazes me, having grown up in an era where John Severson's words about perfect waves and being alone with one's thoughts were our mantra. Seeing drones circling and folk with cameras hanging out of their mouths remains a disconcerting experience, but of course a sign of the times now when waves are good. I have tried most of the approaches recommended here, including giving new arrivals waves, only to be 'burned' later in the session via deliberate foolhardy dropins. In one case I got sufficiently pissed-off to instruct the interloper, from close proximity in his wake, to leave the water, which he did. Conversations can help, but loss of focus, particularly in solid waves, can be problematic. A more radical option is to up-stumps, moving to a less crowded surf location, as I did, family in tow, jumping the ditch from Noosa some 15 years ago now. The waves here aren't as good, and the crowds and aggro are growing here also, but there are more options to get uncrowded waves. I appreciate that many, perhaps most surfers don't have that option though. I also realize that most of today's surfers have come to surfing in this crowded era, and are perhaps less disturbed by it than some of us old timers.
Right with you lindo. I don’t surf any of the crowded/name breaks near me anymore. Just not worth the hassle. I’d rather get a dozen at a lesser quality break than a couple of waves and annoyance at a great quality break. Age also has a lot do with it. I’m in my mid-fifties and just can’t be bothered with all the crap of big crowds.
Quite a coincidence you posted this article today..
I was run over this morning in a crowded line up by a surfer who lost control during a pretty simple take off. After a semi nose dive, catching a rail, he managed to somehow keep his balance and pulled a totally unpredictable 90 degree change of direction. Fin stopped on my hip. First time I've been hit by someone else's board in years.
Total accident but I was still filthy..
Couldn't give him a spray because his leggie snapped and he had to swim a few hundred metres down the point to get his board. I caught the next one in, and had the chance to grab his board, but I decided my revenge would be to let nature take its course. Next thing I'm watching him struggle and started thinking I was going to have to rescue him! But he made it onto the bank.
Quite a conflicting experience.
I'm not saying this applies directly to you - but collisions are where I notice one of the biggest dichotomies of response.
If a local/aggro/jerk/"alpha" is the one who runs in to someone it is ALWAYS the other persons fault for being in the way. However if they are the one who has been run over, it is ALWAYS the fault of the rider for not avoiding them. It could be the exact same actions from each person in each case, but there are just some dickheads who are always "right" and everyone else in the lineup has to deal with their ego. Worse still, is that those aggro alpha local types usually have a pack of rabid friends who'll back them up in either scenario and enable their behaviour, rather than pulling their idiot mate in to line.
Fortunately that kind of surfer seems to be gradually dying out. The odd one comes out of the woodwork around here but pretty rare.
From what I’ve seen over the years, some collisions are just accidents, but most are caused by a surfer paddling for the shoulder instead of heading inboard and duck diving. A lot of the time the guy paddling has no idea he’s done something wrong.
I like it Steve.
I've just come off almost 3 weeks surfing the ____ into the ____, some good days, some bad. One of the first in the water each morning, there'd be bugger all out until about 6:30 each day, then boom, 40+ of all shapes and sizes.
Now I've surfed this place since before they finished building it, and while I'm not as fit, fast or as flexible as I used to be, it's fair to say we have a fairly solid relationship - I know her many moods and faces, what turns her on and what doesn't so to speak. In my youth, I've also been "that guy", a selfish prick, guilty as charged.
So each day, by 6:30 I've had at least a dozen or so good one's and it's time to relax with my mates, but this is when it gets interesting, because most of the 40+ floaters out there, don't know why I'm talking to them between sets, they don't know why I'm letting waves go and whistling or pointing blokes in, they don't know why I'm hooting when they take off, or telling them to go.
But, when it is time to get serious, and a bit of regulation is required, they all take notice, and I pretty much get what I want. In the past 3 weeks I have surfed pretty much every day, in this crowd and had plenty, with only a couple of issues. Once, when a Felipe Toledo look-alike (complete with purple steamer) reverse parked in front of me on a set and snaked it from under me. I didn't have to say a thing, one of the Japanese boys, Hiro, gave it to him for being a dickhead as he paddled back out, and he paddled away from the main peak. The second time when the Gab Medina look-alike, complete with black rails, dropped in on Ibis, went over the falls and Ibis caught his board mid-air and threw it off the back of the wave. Poor old Gabby didn't know what had just happened, but he fully understood what he had to do when one of the boys told him to "paddle that way".
A day later, I met a young Japanese girl in the water - it was smaller and crowded and she wasn't getting many, so I flexed the local card, called her into a set (called the rest of the men off) and she got the wave of the morning. She paddled back out beaming and said thank you. I asked her where she was from and she said Osaka - no surf there I replied - she grinned as if to say "you got me" and said I'm really from (isolated southern Japanese Island with insane waves and no people), but "you wouldn't know".
The look on her face was priceless when I said that not only did "I know" but that I had been there, and scored. We spent the next few minutes talking about the different waves on ______ and why she was on the Goldy. Between sets she told me how she didn't want to go back and that living on the Goldy was a dream. She couldn't understand that my dream was to move to _____.
So while many in the crowd had no idea that yes, while my mates and I were often on the better waves coming through, we were really rotating the strike and regulating who got what on the main peak - just through better communication like you have stated above Steve.
Plus I got to make that young ladies day!
And I guess that's the point - my younger self could never have worked this out - but I'm glad I eventually did, it only took 30 odd years.
A good piece Steve, thanks for sharing :)
Welcome back blowin???
Na its not Blowin
Sorry, but I have no idea what you blokes are on about?
Never mind, mistaken identity
Oh, Steve, what an article. It's brilliant.
I like calling people in who deserve/need to be called in. It's good karma.
I'm coming from a slightly different angle when I'm tandem surfing with the bride. I have no choice but to put her safety before all other aspects. Paddling out I always pause for a chat and get a feel for the water. I ask people how the swell has been running, any unusual sets hitting, and (uniquely for us) a request that when we go - we can't stop.
I can't think of one blue. If anything the better the surfer (not just in skill but in approach/attitude) the better the grace.
Brilliant article, Steve.
I've generally had a very passive approach and had to accept a low wave count on many a day but I think most people that already surf are unlikely to be generous or civil, even if they read this article.
My only tactic from now is to continually reinforce good behaviour to my son and where possible his mates, some of which are very good surfers.
He's 13yo now, has been surfing for 6-7 years, is quite competent and if he keeps it up will no doubt be good by the time he's 16 or so.
I reinforce that he should be generous to beginners, do everything he can to never drop in and if some drops in on him not get angry but simply say "if you keep that up someone might get hurt". A deliberately ambiguous statement, not saying anything in particular but able to be interpreted many ways.
He's seen it all out there already, lots of aggressive behaviour. As I say to the other dads, some of which want their kids to be pro surfers, the only thing I want from his surfing career is for him to be nice out in the water.
Work on the next generation, I think the ship has sailed for those already out in the line up
Govts mandate overcrowded Cage Fighting of basherz in Flagged Pens.
Unfathomobiles helixing vorticed hydraglyphs thru Test Tubes thru Rainbow Unicorns'n'Xmas Beetles!
Never no mystical hornswagglin' or broken wings...Why! Coz despite the bashin' we're all free surfers!
We are the Waves the waves are in us...All of Huey's waves are Party Waves of Living Wonder!
Surfjustsurf.
Govts equally mandate the hot wiring of minecraft thru WSR resulting in privately leashed leaseholds.
Scammin'n'Skimmin' the tops off fully subscribed leashed WOTD...(Mine Precious!)
Comparably empty privatized precious line-up of Expert Kooks...swear they're plagued with Surf Rage!
Basher slots in behind the rock to hook up with Old School enforcers...got this...Hi 5 - piece of piss!
Automatically exempts enforcer to burn best mate, lowest lifeform basher - every single wave..M.A.T.E!
Expert Pro's sick slick-shift shticky stickered stick flings shit all over tbb...Ouch!
"Was that you behind me again tbb...did ya see me ace WOTD...waves on tap it's lightin' up...Hey!"
Best Old school mate tbb : "For 100th time...Yes! Stoked for yer Psychotic Tag Team Dream Session!"
Huey : "Gee whizz tbb...can froth ya up an extra gritty flappy Pro surf sticker for yer forehead!"
tbb : 'Don't waste yer breath Huey...still just a Lamb chop flung for 6 by the Victa blades!'
Ol' mate : "See ya next session tbb!"
tbb : 'Say wot..(blood'n'guts drippin'...now hobblin' ashore) Yeah! (Now wave...Good-o!') Stoked!
New Year resolution : We need more expert mates to spot fire the WSR Line-Up...All say Aye!
Without much reflection, another way of achieving this might be to go to a coast that is absolute shite at that time. Been out with no more than 5 or 6, friendly conversation, encouraging others into some ridiculously average waves - fun times.
I don't take things too seriously in a heavily crowded line up. Either I'll get a few, or I won't, and that could go either way in any given session. I expect to be dropped in on occasionally, and I (usually) just shake my head and laugh it off when it happens.
But yeah, be the happy guy who doesn't give a fuck about the nonsense going on around him. Definitely throw in a few G'days, a few smiles and nods.
It doesn't always work out but at least you'll leave the water feeling better about the experience, rather than walking back up the beach with steam coming out of your ears.
And as for the grommies, some of those little shits are the biggest offenders at certain spots.
The thing that pisses me off the most in crowded surf, is getting a good one and having to surf a slalom course or worse still, having to straighten out altogether etc because of people in the way.
Last paragraph
L O L
Yeh calling half locals (respectable ones), groms and women into waves is almost as good as catching it ya self.. although if it’s firing ya gotta get your share…
A head nod, a stern whistle or a carpark chat .
Fixes any line up problems.
Keep it civil though.
No time for agro, I prefer to keep the numbers up.
Im not in a crowded zone though,
Not sure I'd even still surf if I still lived in your area freeride.
Great thoughts Steve. My mantra and what I've taught my grom is to paddle out and "take the temperature" of the line up before getting your first one. See who's ripping, who's having a shocker, and who's out of their depth. Sit wide, say gidday, complement the shredda's last wave. I've always found the guy giving you the death stare is probably having a shit sesh and is just one gifted set wave away from being your new mate. Most of the good old boys at Cooly use this principle and guess what, we usually end up getting our share and having fun even on the busiest days.
Footnote; except for the dick on the motorized Waldo mal at Greeny. That guy is now learning the lesson I told him he would if he kept dropping in, that my grom and his mates wouldn't be 13 forever. Now they're all 19-year-old rippers and cook him constantly :)
Plant the seed of generosity, and the lineup changes. Well, 75% of the time at least.
It's also amazing how waves go from scarcity to abundance once you say "nah, you go".
Nearly every time there’s a wave, unexpectedly, better behind the one you give away.
It's a kind of magic.
Yes
I’m loving these crowds , on shore slop , and now ……. blue bottles lol.
Haha just need to find somewhere to park where a ranger can fine you and its utopia
Topical, the queen has some ideas:
https://stabmag.com/stabcinema/cheat-codes-steph-gilmore-explains-how-to...
Now when someone is polite in a line-up i'll see it purely as a tactic...
I'll stick with Elevator Ethic thanks (head-down, pretend no-one's around, speak only in an emergency)
I'm not quite sure why, but my kneejerk response to this article, is that it is the gutsiest surf journalism I can remember having read for a while..
[..talking about the unspoken.. paddling out into heavily-opinionated waters.. plain speaking.. corralling cats.. embracing the sploodge who co-opt our nostalgia dreams.. unsexy pragmatic advice.. and *a-hem* touting generosity and kindness as cool..]
Someone wants to keep spookily to themself, well, there's plenny of isolated breaks to be Marlon Brando or Rock Hudson, if that's yr thing. Get a car.
Fucking 'glarey intimidating loners..' - I mean, really..?
(it kinda works in SA's west or WA's north. But east coast humpers who sit in a crowded line-up, at an obvious spot, looking resentful..? bahahaha..)
Can only imagine the positivity above techniques/attitudes could lead to in a crowded community, and could teach the unaware/fuckwit periphery of that crowded community.
Brilliant.
Also feel there is a new breed of surfers who chose to surf only the optimal/ better days.
Really confused by this type?
I am I'd like to refer to them as bounty hunters.
I've got no time for that crowd.
It happens around the world due to sites like this and Surfline!
If you're not out there most days, you can't expect to have the fitness to thrive in the 6ft+ days. People don't know this though and just get in the way.
I agree with this in theory but in principle it doesn't really work. There's a critical mass, and it depends on the break and country too, that once passed, it's just bedlam. Also low period spots handle a crowd way better than groundswell locations, so the author might not be taking that into account as well.
I just try and avoid crowds as much as possible and love those 3ft-4ft sessions that you might snag uncrowded.
I would stress that better surfers are generally better to surf with. Worse, especially older surfers are generally worse to be around in my experience. Regardless of crowds. There's two regions that I've been to that even when kind of crowded, is fun to surf and it's because they rip way harder in general than other places I've travelled in Australia. I'm certainly not going to say where those regions are because the surfers were good to surf with and I'm planning to move to one of those two regions.
Anyway, one of the worst freeride articles IMO. Instead of using gland to emphasise the point, use Uluwatu! Big time copium instead of calling a spade a spade.
Tropical Cyclone OMA 2019 in Noosa at Nationals I think Day 2, busy busy crowded. Teamed up 4 of us me from VIC a Gold Coaster, a Noosa Villier and a former world junior champ (was a joy) and we just gave each other the all clear as the waves came through and generally watched out for one another. Was a joy to give someone the all clear so they could just paddle in. Amazing what that split second of time gives you on a wave.
If we all just gave waves away it would be a much happier place to be. You would give and you would receive and there would be smiles all round.
Why not have a 'Give a Wave away' day, help educate the greedy ones and teach the ignorant ones.
Life can be simple.
hey chris,
do you mind if we use your give-a-wave-away day idea here in Noosa?
nice one
When I was a grom if you were inside paddling and couldn't catch it or found yourself too deep and you didn't call someone in you would be told in no uncertain terms what would happen if you did that again.
I still do it. No point catching a wave if you know you can't make it unless there's no one else around you.
If I do it I usually ask how they went.
I love to call people in if I'm not gonna get the wave.
I queried a grom who didn't call me in when he missed another one, "didn't say I wasn't gonna go!"
Kids these days
Sound thinking all the way. And from practice, I know it works. It only fails with the hopeless narcissist, and there are actually less of them than you might think.
You also feel better when you get out of the water.
I have always been the wide ones, inside peeler up the bank or double up on the inside kind of guy and usually let the death stare crew know this if I get stink eye as usually have to paddle past them or inside them to do this. "Just going for an inside peeler up the bank mate....dont worry about me"
Usually end up getting a set wave or two using this approach.
These days rarely surf with more than 6 in the water and usually know most of them anyway and just really surf my happy places which I have been surfing for over 40 years.
What irks me the most these days are the "Kelly Dads who push their Groms into set waves all the time." Its a big trend now.
Your Grom aint going to be the next world champ by doing this.
Teach them to grovel and chase waves.
"Kelly Dads who push their Groms into set waves all the time." Its a big trend now.
Your Grom aint going to be the next world champ by doing this.
- it could be the cure for hipsters on logs tho
- having to push in is a great way to say 'this board has no paddle, just like mine'
Helpful ideas on a micro level.
But a splash of cold water on the macro impact.
The irritation and frustration of crowds is THE biggest factor leading to the less committed, the less fit, the in it for image and selfies, the time poor, the surf school "graduates" etc to quit the sport.
Surfing has a huge churn of participants. Be thankful for that. Crowds could be 10x current levels if every "surfer" was chasing it regularly.
A few good ideas causing a slight lessening of the frustration levels for the masses is like digging a hole in water. It will just fill back in back up to the frustration balance point where churn overcomes newbie entrants.
The sustainable answer is a very individual one - surf by surf, situation by situation - early, late, gaps, beachbreaks, lower quality, walk further, avoid, stay fit + sprinkle in some of Steve's and other posters ideas as suits the situation...
Find niches that suit you.
But always have a solid degree of sharing as fundamental to your approach.
After 46 years of surfing I have seen a change of attitude directly related to crowds. Being from South Oz I used to hope someone would turn up to surf with. Now I hope no more paddle out. Although with what has been going down in our state lately a few in the water is ok with me!
far out, replace 46 with 36, and I'm a +1 to that post, word for word, @Wavester
You know it's time to hang up the towel when you glance around the lineup and it looks like the cast of home and away.
Steve, my takeaway from this is: “so hard to: (fill in the blank)”
you nailed it, of all the responses we’ve all had to all the unacceptable and dumb behavior we’ve all seen, really, is it so hard to just do something that is a little better and may actually help? Answer: no, not so hard!
Thanks for this, and like all good advice, you’ll probably have to re-write and print this article at least a half dozen more times to make it effective, lol!
I can just picture it now, Snapper crowd all happy & chummy, no you go, no after you, no I insist. Occy giving away a couple, calling you in, not dropping in……oh hang on do miracles really happen?
Great thoughts everyone.
I'm very big on saying gday in the line up, hooting people into waves, and letting people know they got a good one. Life's too short to be a sullen dickhead in the line up, which is something I associate much more with good surfers than new surfers - always snaking around getting heaps of waves, scowling as they come out of tubes. I also apprach crowded sessions but pretending I'm not "surfing" in the same way I would be on a pumping winter's day. I'm just out in the water with a surfboard, and if I get a wave that's a bonus.
The one thing I struggle with is the parents - usually dads - rocking up to a bank on an average morning and unloading their grommets out at once. Today as I was getting out of the water two dads and six kids all came over the dune at once and descended on the best bank on the whole beach. Calling their kids into waves, critiquing their turns, breeding up the next generation of teenagers who think that being able to do an air reverse means they can ignore long standing rules of etiquette. I've not yet figured out a strategy to deal with this lot.
instant crowd. been happening for decades
I’m on it Dan.
I’m permanently saying to my son, his mates who are into competitive surfing and their respective dad’s is that the only thing I want from my son in regards to surfing is that he’s nice in the water. Gets a strange look and usually a non answer from some of those dads but I’m hoping a little bit is sinking in each time
I think you’re needed in the Levant, mr Shearer.
Let the surfboard owning selfie posting, in the way flotsam have it for the holidays, while the semi-retired oldies share joy and shade 10 minutes drive away in natures tunnel of fun.
A couple of things
I find that human beings always have a justification for bad behavior. You only need to look at what's happening in the middle east to see the far end of that scale.
The other is finding another thing to do other than surfing that garners your interest.
Life is too short to put all your eggs in the one basket.
You wouldn't force yourself into peak hour traffic unless it's totally necessary.
tough gig road testing balsa sliders in school holidays, hope you recover soon. I’ve been practising avoidance by taking my walrus lady whiskers bodysurfing. I intensely dislike trying to mind trip the frothers and at mid-sixties when I do go surfing it no longer bothers me if I don’t catch every wave.
The leashless log careening in the whitewater that almost kills your kid? Punch the fin out and send them in. Kidding, kidding. But say something. I'm still working on a calm response to this one.
A Calm Response to this One...
I keep Mulling this over and no Calm Response could come from Me ...
you nailed it Wandi
a lot of my best sessions have been uncrowded...
Same here, but some of my most memorable waves have come on super crowded days at places like Kirra, and a good many of them came on days where I was shaking my head at myself for even thinking of paddling out.
As mentioned, I've also had some of the most frustrating sessions in my life at those places as well.
Yin and Yang.
As long as there is a limited resource there will always be aggressive lineups. Ironically, the limited resource is what is so appealing to people that surf. You might be on your feet for 40 secs of a 2hr surf. Take up skateboarding, snowboarding, wing foiling, kitesurfing etc. where the resource is unlimited, those guys seem to have much less ego. Then again, you won't do that because its the illusiveness of surfing waves that draws you in to being a surfer.
What do you do when you work your way to the head of the pack after giving away some gems, making sure Sal gets a decent one , and giving to the bloke frothing so hard he’ll rupture something , and making sure your crew get some too.
Then your in position and some queenslander paddles round you three times and on the forth, using the good vibes angle from this story.
Says “ great waves out here to day”
To stay In the spirit of joy and woke inclusiveness
I said “your last three waves were so sick yewww
But your fourth is gonna hurt”.
Actually my last comment sounded a bit aggressive.
Was meant more humerous than it sounded.
Old mate knew I meant that I was going on the next one so stop paddling round me, and he did.
Sal by the way ( not her real name )
Got the best wave of her life In 3 ft onshore waves. Thanked me too.
It was a good wave.
My strategy is simple: if there is a disproportionate number of QLD v NSW rego plates in the car park, I’ll give it a miss.
Don’t understand surfing with crowds. There’s plenty of options away from the main drags. I reckon the locals at my place love surfing in the holidays to show how much better they are than the tourists. Surfing is 50% self ego stroking. As is giving learners tips to move off the peak and down the line. Best advice I’ve seen of late is a very good older surfer telling a 20 something over zealous kook to just “chill out and relax”. In an unfriendly way, He did just that.
So happy to be away from this. I'll take my 6mm suits haha
I don't think I'd ever get a wave in crowds like this anymore. I'd be too much:"its your turn" "oh your turn" "have a go!" only to scrape into a dribbly insider that closes out when I get one haha
Thanks FR for encouraging this debate.
Generally, I try to be super positive and engaging in the line-up, albeit 80% of the time I surf with fewer than 10 people in the water.
I do like surfing in a crowd when you find that rhythm with the ocean, timing the sets and...
Apart from being generally positive and respectful I don't think there's any one strategy that's gonna see you right in a crowd. In Hawaii I found that if you paddle up next to the locals, spark up a conversation and don't compete for waves at all, after a while chances are they'll start calling you into waves. They respond to respect being shown. This won't work at the super bank when there's 200 people out however. For that scenario you've just gotta set the bar very low, compete like mad but prepare yourself mentally for not catching many waves. Then there's joints like Pipe, Padang Padang etc where there's pretty much no point even paddling out. Last time I surfed Padang was in 1994 and it was almost impossible to snag a wave off the locals even then. I can't imagine how bad it is there now.
Everything else is a combination of watching the lineup closely to see if there's a niche you can fit into, thinking outside the box a bit and being ready to pull the pin if things start getting too frustrating and going somewhere else.
There's always Sketchyhelldeathpeak :-)
Another way to deal with crowds is to give up "polishing the turd" and look for other ocean (or land) activities when its that crowded. It's like back country skiing a little further offshore, if you get the right gear (particularly anything you can use to surf chop in downwind conditions). And ....... get this............ a community that embraces helping each other out, particularly beginners.
Just finished our first (but not last) grey nomad trip with no plan, go wherever whenever. Caught a few nice waves between Nambucca and Marion Bay.
You are only a local at one beach, but you can get to know so many good people all across this land. My wife knows it'll take a while, when I go surfing it's about 1/3rd in the water, 2/3rds out, all having a chat.