Gallery: North By North-west
Gallery: North By North-west
Following one of the worst winters of surf on record and beaches sanded to the nines, anticipations were set high as a dynamic weather system approached from the west.
The global forecasting models eyed off the system last week and stuck with it, that being a windy, raw day of surf building out of the north-northeast, followed by an abrupt swing in winds to the west and drop in swell as the low moved offshore.
The timing was the key though, and this looked to be the only fly in the ointment (besides the local sand situation). An overnight wind change was forecast (not ideal), with swell production reaching a maximum shortly after, resulting in a rapid drop in size the following day.
Being such a dynamic system, all eyes were on the timing of the wind change and it kicked in a little earlier than forecast, just after dark on Wednesday evening. This meant by the time dawn Thursday arrived, there'd be 8-12hrs hours of time between the peak in wave heights the evening before, with a steady drop in size set to follow.
As it were, Thursday morning dawned clean and offshore but with a little less size than could have been (though right on Ben Matson's forecast expectations). The swell was very north in angle resulting in a wide range of sizes across beaches, double in height towards southern ends. The period drew out as the morning progressed and winds howled, with a few select spots turning the conditions into long, walled out hollow rights.
Come the afternoon the swell was slower and straight, but still offering 3-4ft sets for the evening session. While it could have been all time if the sand was in better shape, all in all yesterday provided one of the better surf days of the past few months.
Comments
that 1st pic - gold standard evocative
Cheers RR.
Any reason the rights were so good on a left-favouring swell?
Not sure, and the swell seemed to be coming in way more north as well. Just the sand setup down that end helped it seemed.
Cooking!
Get a few yourself Craigo?
Yeah popped out an hour or so after this, same bank a bit fuller but no-one around! Stoked.
Nice!
Hard to believe the lack of crowd!!!
By the time I came in there were a few more heads filling in, but I guess it's not the usual place to look under these conditions. Ie up the beach is usually the go.
Absolutely amazing early morning east coast Australian colours. With some pumping wind swept waves to boot.
Magic pics Craig.
Almost thought it was some faraway remote beachie and point.
Beautiful.
Love these swell recaps
great photos, pumping waves
Nice work Craig.
I'd like that first photo as a print on my wall please?
Which one Chipper? The very top hero image or the first one below the text with Winter?
The first one below with the text Winter... stormy and pumping! :)
Yep, moody eh! Sent you an email.
very interesting and unique day of waves. the swell size/period/direction, wind strength and bank set-ups i've never seen before in my 30 or so years in Sydney.
edit: also, great pics, thanks for documenting it.
Thanks Nick, yeah these super north swells always do funky things. Add in the large build up of sand and it was even more unpredictable.
This one of Curl Curl by Andrew Christie is pretty cool.
Indeed, very rare!