Gallery: Bombing Tuesday

So, there'll be no ridiculing the forecaster, next time the Sydney FC notes say: "1-2ft southern ends, 3-5ft open beaches, 6-8ft south facing beaches and 10-12ft+ offshore bombies".

Maybe that's it IB, the last few years have been better than usual? And down here worse.

cheers

Very interested to know why you say a helmet? Just for the obvious reason of hitting your head against your board. I see very if any famous guys wearing helmets. I hear there was quite a lot of talk about Albee Layer's whiplash type injury a few years ago and that he said he think he would have broke his neck if he wore a hard helmet, hence the DMC helmets.

Yeah it was fun, the wind was more cross-shore than off shore than anything so was difficult to paddle into them, found a couple fun ones. I was sitting on a different section of the reef to the others so positioning was hard. But love a challenge.

Hahah, cheers Craig. Yeah there is a chip in that sits just off the main reef out there I was looking for. I would have paid money to have some mates out there to help with positioning.
I felt like the swell had a little too much east in it for the perfect lineup but was fun regardless. Thanks for taking some shots, the view from the water and the energy coming through was refreshing and hoping we keep getting lucky through the winter.

by suit you mean the ones with foam on your thighs as well? How do they feel compared to a vest?

It's funny that! Sometimes the side on angle makes everything look fun, even inviting. Very different feeling when you are at water level staring at one come towards you haha.

True! Quite a big playing field at this spot. Paddling around the North looking into the right (like the cropped angle in the video clip), it looks like a fun Sunset Beach peak but there are a few more variables out here. That cropped footage doesn't show the area covered by white wash, (or background/ foreground waves that Craig has captured artistically in a unique perch directly west of the line-up in the Plateau). When you finally make it through the scattered rocks or strong shorebreak (some were denied yesterday) there are no accurate reference points to line up with, just intuition. Sets swamped the lineup yesterday and felt so raw, almost like it doesn't want to be surfed. With the wind blowing W to SW cross-to-offshore, chances of finding a clean entry are minimal (even on low wind days). Intuition finds the chip in- but riding a longer board that 'chip in' quickly turns into an air drop with even a breath of wind (The jury is out on length- but i prefer paddle power, copping less on the head and gliding into a clean one) When stroking in and jumping to your feet, its common to have spray in your eyes and no clear vision until you are at the bottom of the wave, completely trusting your equipment and positioning. Going so fast absorbing the chops down face, as you gain clear vision, your peripherals are then tuned into the distance from shore and the long wall ahead (OR lip above you). At that point, you feel very small, but fully present. Completing the wave is a buzz, but it's short lived- as you pull off the wave and look behind, there are often bigger waves stacked behind. At this point you should hopefully know if you're near the random rocky out crops so you can make a call to try and punch it back out or cop a monumental flush in through the reef and end of session. A successful surf for me, considering i was longboarding waist high point breaks in boardshorts the day before! Stoked