Gallery: From Kirra to Sydney
Gallery: From Kirra to Sydney
East Coast surfers didn't have to wait long for the first tropical swell of the season.
Even before summer had begun, the long-range charts were consistently forecasting a deepening tropical low off the south-east Queensland coast. As the models aligned and the date approached, it wasn't a matter of if, but more so how big and also how wet?
The worst case scenario was a severe, coast-hugging low which would flood an already saturated landscape, and also tear apart the sand banks - the cursed 'bankbuster' - right at the start of the prime swell season.
Fortunately, late movements saw the low shift quickly offshore which meant the rain was heavy yet brief, while the surf was large but not destructive. There were other benefits of the low deepening further offshore but we'll come to them later.
A sharp rise in swell energy late on Thursday had Gold Coast surfers going to bed full of anticipation. The early risers had to dodge rain squalls on Friday morning as the close-range energy also brought moist, low clouds.
With multiple holes in the Superbank's sand, it was Kirra that sparkled when the winds went offshore and the swell peaked.
Further south, conditions were wild with choppy eight foot sets across the Northern Rivers, only surfable in protected bays and corners. Local surfers looked to the weekend when the swell was expected to settle down and the wind swing more south-west.
Later on Friday, reports began to filter in of the swell reaching further south and arriving with more push than was initially expected. The 'coast-hugging' low had a longer tail than initialy forecast, with a secondary development whipping up swell from further offshore, hence allowing for more radial spread. This wasn't going to be a bankbuster swell, and nor was it going to be localised.
As the week rolled into the weekend, the strongest stages of the low created large E/NE sets that began moving down the East Coast. They arrived with vigour on Saturday morning.
Local conditions were close to perfect under light land breezes as step-ladder sets built from three feet at dawn to six feet by mid-morning. The late developments caught many surfers off guard, allowing for a few hours of grace before other surfers twigged to what was happening.
Comments
Was a fun 4 days of waves. Was def not pumping Kirra, many many closeouts and average sand (especially at big groin) Photos make it look much better than it was.
glad to hear someone else say that. i spent a long time watching and saw very few gems, with lots of sweep and crowd.
agree, photos and edited videos clips skew the narrative by showing "highlights only"
What's with people in steamers in Dec on the Goldy yesterday crystal clear light winds
Friday the air was pretty cold, but the water has been 24c the entire swell. no need for more than a vest on Friday. The other days was boardies only.
Light winds ? Seriously ? I was in boardies and rashie but I have meat on my bones . Some of the skinnier young blokes were visibly shaking in that howling wind . I haven’t worn my 2mm steamer for nearly 3 months now but again I have meat on my bones .
Yesterday as in Monday light winds compared to the weekends blast . Anyways what's with steamers in Dec it's 23,24 dg water temp even before the weekend .
Im aint got much meat on the bones, and i was fine in just boardies the entire swell. It wasn't bad at all. The steamer dudes were pretty funny and such an overkill.
Nothing like making an airborne takeoff. Excellent!!
Worked the whole event at the royal National park nicely groomed swell to walk along the coast too.
Beaut pics @craig and Josh B.
Amazing waves-
why do people care so much about what people wear in the water? Who gives a toss
Although boardies with vest was probably the perfect temperature solution for the cool air/wind and warm water, wearing a vest in heavy waves sucks as they pull up, pool with water in the arms and chest and a just a plain, pain in the arse after heavy wipeouts/duck dives.
So that’s why I reckon people went to the wetty instead.
Lucky people, I live in Tassie and we are still in 4/3 3/2 wetties
Nice shots Craig, Josh.