Redemption Beneath The Sandstone
No one's put as much time or study into this location as Sam Jones.
Redemption Beneath The Sandstone
No one's put as much time or study into this location as Sam Jones.
Whether it be sitting for hours on the back ledge waiting for that 'perfect' one or inside his own head, playing out all the different swell direction, period and tide scenarios.
The dedication to one location is very admirable. Rain, hail or shine you'll see Jonesy sitting out there if there's a worthy wave.
Then comes a swell in April, one so ludicrous on paper that being a week out, it's surely set to fizzle. The classic American Global Forecasting model gee up.
Sam Jones is on a long overdue holiday with his missus in Iceland and gives the long-range forecast as little attention as it deserves.
That's until it continues to consolidate and grow even bigger as the date nears. That swell in early April ended up being one of the largest, cleanest swells since the 6th of June 2016 and it hurt.
The odds on missing such a historic day for someone so dedicated to one spot are very long, but it's funny how the world works sometimes. You can't be everywhere all the time.
Since that early April swell there have been a few teasing swells but nothing overly significant to awaken the beast below the sandstone.
That was until Sunday afternoon. A windy, raw mix of south-east windswell and underlying groundswell started to rumble down the point, but the rapidly rising tide claimed it before any noteworthy rides could take place.
Michael Lavers (Kel) rocked off straight into this raw beast, doing well to negotiate the random lumps and bumps.
Monday held more hope and opportunity with an offshore breeze, dropping tide and large sets still pushing into the southern NSW coast, originating from a strong Tasman Low.
It was slow, very slow but when the sets came there was every opportunity for a long throaty barrel.
The vibe was great as a handful of local chargers sat on the outside ledge while friends egged them on in the passing showers atop the cliff.
After playing with a few 'fun' ones, Sam stoked into a beautiful 8ft double-up just as the sun poked through the clouds.
Fading hard and standing tall, his eyes locked smugly on the camera as he stood casual as you like with the squarest, heaviest slab of water contorting over the top of him.
The pure stoke emanating from his face was impossible to hide when paddling back out.
While not the size or consistency of the last swell, this one was one for the locals, pulling in under heavy water on a rainy Monday morning.
Comments
Fantastic shots Craig!
I think they need to rename the break to Sydsterns.
Amazing photos. Well Done.
Great shots, Craig
Great shots Craig, was wondering if we would see anything from there. Not sure whether it is filters or photo-shopping (I imagine you eschew that false beast, as I do) but the water there takes on a fantastic shade of green as its barrelling.
Wicked. You certianly can not be everywhere at once if your a regular joe. How's the shot of the heads down and in a spot of bother. Looking for crabs. As they say Fortune favours the brave. Passion is positively expressed in people like this. Go you underdogs. This is what it's about. Photos or not. Australia wide.
dude straight rips in the smaller stuff, too
Waves of consequence = not to many takers/ fakers! Enjoy the ride while you still can!
You say square, it literally is. Yeeww
I seriously enjoy watching vids/pics of this wave more than most .. great shots
Great shots, I can only imagine how much heavy water is moving around. Animals!
Unreal! Epic rides and beautifully captured. That angle is magic Craig.
He deserved every bit of that day/session.
Thanks guys, best seat in the house for all the action. How these guys can be so calm and casual in such heavy water blows my mind,
Flip. That’s why theres a ‘square’ in the surfing vocabulary.