Gallery: South Meets West
The southern New South Wales coast has been battered by an extended run of large southerly swell. As it slowly eases it gives as a second to stop, reflect and repair our battered bodies.
One quick side note; it's not over yet with one final pulse of strong south-east groundswell due to make landfall Friday afternoon and peak Saturday, though the local winds and weather won't be anywhere near as favourable.
It's now been just over a week of consistent, groomed and straight southerly swell, becoming extra-large through Sunday afternoon and Monday morning as the largest of the pulses travelled up through the Tasman Sea.
The source was a large, slow moving Southern Ocean gyre. In layman's terms we saw a very broad area of low pressure spanning from just west of Tasmania, over towards New Zealand with multiple embedded cold fronts spinning clockwise around the gyre. With each frontal system being stronger than the one previous while also acting on top of an overactive sea state, we saw multiple pulses of increasingly large and more powerful southerly swells being generated.
The gyre brought wide-spread heavy and low level snow falls to all alpine regions, setting up a great start to the season, pummelled even the most protected Tasmanian nooks for not just a couple of hours but for days on end.
For the southern NSW coast the energy was initially very acute, performing best from about Sydney north but come Saturday a much wider spread of size was seen ahead of the hefty stuff Sunday afternoon. Further north the swell only started to hit its straps later Friday and Saturday morning, becoming large into Monday.
For such a long-lined, straight and groomed southerly swell you needed a quality reef or point break as most beaches were annoyingly straight (and still are). While the exposed rock ledges and offshore bomboras roared to life one beach was amazingly holding the building swell energy. What begun as a fun 6ft on the Friday, built further towards 6-8ft on Saturday while Sunday afternoon saw big 10ft wedging peaks growing down the line with walls not too dissimilar to a famous South African point break.
Discussion in the water was how incredible it was to have a beach holding so much size, with those with the equipment and the lung capacity taking on the perfect, walled out rights.
Comments
Did you bag a couple yourself Craig?
Nice pics- looks trying though.
Not when it was 10ft but when 6ft to occ 8ft, yeah. Had a place booked down there months ago and it lined up nicely.
Winning.
B-e-a-utiful!
Im trying to pick the beach from the angle and carpark etc? Obviously not a trade secret - is it **** beach? just south of *&^?
You picked it.
Photos from home?
**Was going to ask about living there, checked real estate, aaand it's mental like everywhere, never mind.
A tad overly protective there Craig? I say let the hordes of starry eyed big wave chargers come...they will be waiting another 10-20 years for that (meanwhile spending up big on pots and parmas as they stare out to sea like Bodhi at - cough - Bells) - and then they go home spreading the word that the place is a lie - then no one will ever come there again. Winning!
Nah, It's easily identifiable and no secret, but it's also good to keep people guessing a little and to also stoke that sense of adventure. As you've stated it likely won't happen again for a very long time.
Youre right - with the hordes in Sydney now - all it takes is one good forecast - and if only 0.05% of sydney surfers take a punt the line up will be smashed. Im still living in the haze of optimism from my youth where lining up a special spot required reading barometric charts and a prayer....then a night in the back of a station wagon - only to wake up to a lake - then return home and it goes nuts the afternoon you leave. Swell forecasting is too good now - damn it!!
I hear good things about this place but it's never really quite working when I'm there and usually opt to go further afield. Mind you it's never been 10ft when I've been there. Glad to hear you scored Craigos.
Nice shots as usual Craig.
I think I've been surfing the same bank. Either that or one that looks eerily similar. Simply epic. fortune to have had a 10 day holiday in that neck of the woods booked.
(Piked out and surfed a semi-protected spot when the swell peaked though!)
Thanks, and yeah good score with that 10 day holiday. I hid when it peaked as well, but either side found some really fun ones.
Think I surfed this point/beachie setup years ago @ about 4ft with my son! Looks like it was handling the energy & wind pretty well. Not too many takers @peak of the swell either, I can only wonder why!
I am the KON
Looks so easy compared to the the reefs and point in my area which were perfect and life threatening.
It would be so nice to have such a easy entry into giant waves like that. I have experienced that
wave 8ft plus years ago was great fun steeper and better than Bells and gives you a lot of speed
to really enjoy and do great carves. As I get older slower and more broken I still enjoy the bigger
swells and seek the NON freefall into oblivion of a giant top to bottom cavern of near death.
Looks very familiar, but I’ve never seen it in 10’+ swell, so can’t be sure. Next time I’m down there I’ll have a look from the photograph angle and see f I can line it up. Totally support not naming it Craig, even if houses and car parks are shown.
(I’ve narrowed it down to places that have houses, streets, and a car park!)