"Why Isn't Anyone Taking Off Out The Back?"
It was the question being asked at home and in the Sunset commentary booth all yesterday:
Why aren't surfers catching waves from out the back?
Sunset Beach is known for its vast playing area, the many takeoff options, and the big open faces offered to surfers ready to take a swing. Yet the Woz drone angles made clear what game the CT surfers were playing: Ignore the outside peaks and only bother with the inside section. All day, oversized teepees went unblemished by wake or spray, breaking so far away from surfers it may have been a whole 'nother wave, till they rolled through to where competitors would take off in the whitewash and complete the end of the wave.
"I can hardly believe it," said Sunset local and former World Cup winner Makua Rothman from the commentary booth, "they're surfing like the last quarter of the wave."
The insistence to ignore the outside section was so entrenched that not a single surfer stroked in from the traditional takeoff section.
Swellnet toyed with the idea that staying inside was a priority tactic; that heading out the back, to where it's spacious and wild, and out of hearing range from judging calls, is to invite a priority error. Why burn up time hunting down a beast only to have an opponent with priority (and remember, the first two rounds had three surfers each) drop in with priority.
It seemed valid, however as we've never surfed a heat at Sunset we went and asked people who had.
Standard fare as Griffin Colapinto, riding a 6'1", prepares to take five waves on the head as Sunset's outside section goes untouched
Before he started Tweed Coast Surf School, Sasha Stocker spent ten years chasing his pro surf dream, ultimately qualifying for the 2001 Championship Tour. In that time he surfed many comps at Sunset, his best place a Quarter-Final finish in an Xcel Pro.
Sasha disagrees that it's about priority.
"It's hard to know what you're gonna get when you takeoff out the back at Sunset," explains Sasha. "You could use up your priority and have it run into deep water. You never know."
"Also," continues Sasha, "we've seen over the last ten years that the very best surfing is done on the inside section. A day like today [Wednesday at Sunset] I would've been on a 7'2" or 7'4" but they're riding much shorter boards and they can do much better turns - turns you can't do on a longer board."
"It's a new approach to Sunset," says Sasha, and suffice to say, he likes it.
Swellnet then spoke to another surf coach, who despite wanting to remain anonymous has coached a number of CT surfers. He also wondered why surfers weren't going out the back, but figured the decision came down to conditions. "There's only forty minutes in a heat, and that flies by at Sunset," said our nameless coach. "In the morning the rip was pushing up the point, while in the afternoon it was coming down it, making positioning a real gamble."
Though he had no charges in the contest, what would have been his hypothetical advice if he did?
"There are big points on offer out there, so start off out the back but don't give it more than ten minutes. Then come and sit inside where there are more waves and you can see what your opponents are doing."
It's worth noting that at the beginning of Wednesday's webcast the Woz cut to their 'judging analyst' former Head Judge Richie Porta who mentioned he'd been speaking to current Head Judge Pritamo Ahrendt and that the day's points were weighted towards the biggest waves. Pressed by host Kaipo Guerrera, Porta claimed to be "bothered" by the recent trend towards surfing the smaller inside section.
Despite this, Porta echoed Sasha's thinking by admitting, "there's an unknown X-factor when surfers takeoff out the back," whereas when they sit inside, "they can size up the wave straight away".
Nevertheless, Porta implied the judging would correct the imbalance. To wit, the surfers will go where the big scores are.
It's an assessment shared by Olympics Head Judge Glen Elliott. "The judges have told the surfers what they want to see," Elliott said to Swellnet. "It's up to the surfers to listen."
What became apparent as the day went on, was that the surfers weren't listening to the judges. In 24 heats, each with three surfers apiece, just three waves scored eight points or higher (2 x 8.00pts, 1 x 8.93). So despite the judges incentivising Sunset's outside section, the surfers turned their noses up at the points out there.
So maybe Sasha's assessment was correct, that on balance it's more rewarding to sit inside..?
Whatever the reason, or maybe reasons, plural, for ignoring the outside section, Richie Porta's comment appeared to indicate the judges want to see it surfed.
One suggestion, as offered by 'Pops' from the Swellnet forums - an ideal moniker for an Hawaiian comp - was for the judges to, not just reward points for attacking the outside, but to dictate that the outside section is the takeoff zone. Meaning you can't get priority till you paddle out there. Surfers could choose to sit inside, surfing smaller waves without priority, but anyone steaming through from deep has the right of way.
It seemed like a neat solution: Use the judging system to force full use of the wave.
Despite this, the judges today seemed to relent. After failing to lure surfers out the back with the promise of big scores, today they did away with the lure and just threw big scores at anything.
The comparison is this: Yesterday saw just three eight-point waves all day, while today there was eleven eight-point waves and six in the nine-point range, for fifteen excellent waves - five times more than yesterday. Not one of them was caught from out the back.
The Inside Sunset Open rolls on, as it will until the judging changes.
Comments
Here's your answer.
That is the funniest shit ever..
hahahaha.
Can someone please get rid of this exclusive cctv vision inside the judges booth. I am an armchair judge. And as such I am offended and cannot focus on typing a serious, constructive comment to Stu's article. Ta.
#WheresGrace
Look what happened to Kelly.
Why would you risk the interference.
Judges canned all hope of taking off out back by that one call.
The discussion is dead.
Reckon youre right there
True that! Fuck that gave me the shits today. It's like Tom Carrols "drop in" that cost him the world title; they had to change the rule after. Perhaps if you ride away and don't interfere with the surfer with priority, no interference should be given?
Tom loved a drop in though, regardless of circumstances
Haha maybe I could judge a surf comp.
Slater called the outside peak a mal wave. There's no come back from that. The GOAT has spoken.
Typical woozle nonsense.
Just like when it’s been big for Margs. They bounce around on the fat, rocky, right shoulders while the left freight train barrels and the camera operators are told not to reveal the waves of truth. They are not even surfing the break they are selling.
So frustrating. I can’t watch.
Freight train barrels on the left at Main Break? Always thought of it as more of a passenger rail service.
haha
Hmmmm. That's not what springs to mind when you're wearing a 6ft plus set on the head out there from memory.
Maybe you’ll understand when you’re a bit older, sonny.
exactly mate. it just fucking baffles me that they are not surfing the left freight trains and are surfing that shitty right.... medina caught one or two lefts on some of the last comps there. remember? i wonder if medina would have paddled to the outside peak at sunset on the first day?
"Also," continues Sasha, "we've seen over the last ten years that the very best surfing is done on the inside section. A day like today [Wednesday at Sunset] I would've been on a 7'2" or 7'4" but they're riding much shorter boards and they can do much better turns - turns you can't do on a longer board."
No jetski assist in those days though. Imagine battling those rips and rogue peaks the last few days on a 6'2 without the skis.
Surprised anyone surfed there pre leash.
Good God, Ian Thorpe would struggle. New respect for the pioneers after watching the gory truth and not surf film highlights.
Sunset? Meh! I am with Slater on this. I hate the place (from a spectators point). Though I might replay it tonight to cure my insomnia.
That interference rule is ridiculous. Slater pulls off the wave by the time John John gets to his feet. Not sure what he was supposed to do. Hard to make a quick decision to straighten out when he is busy bottom turning around an 8ft froth monster. And as they are all taking off in the mush it would have been hard to even make out where John was in at all. I'm no huge Kelly fan but that decision was stupid.
Agree, Kelly had eyes up the whole time trying to see John. As soon as he saw him he ejected, no scoring hinderance at all, stupid call.
Keep in mind it's not "a call" but a clear cut rule that if riders cross then the non-priority surfer gets penalised. It can't be looked into, nor over-ridden. There's no basis for 'judges decision' or whatever.
Slater knows this, he wrote the rule.
Hi Stu, I always thought a ride was only counted from when the surfer's hands left the rails and they had stood up? Thats the deal when getting up before the hooter right?
So if that's the case why is this different?
Kelly was out of there before JJF hands left the rails.
If the siren went for the end of the heat, at that exact time, they wouldn't have counted John's wave (cause he was still on his stomach), but in this case they count the interference against Kelly.
I agree rules are rules, but maybe after today some Medina style alteration could be called for?
I reckon it's a grey area...
That's an interesting point
Do not…
Rule 11.09(a)(ii) Cross in front of or bottom turn around the Surfer with priority, regardless if the Surfer is up and Riding a wave or in the process of catching a wave.”
I have a feeling we'll see an amendment of sorts. Perhaps just a line allowing 'judges discretion'.
Yep, One of Slater's hand written rules so he had to abide by it.
I think it's a valid rule as even having someone in your eye-line when paddling for a wave can be enough to put you off focus for a second, let alone taking off on the same wave. I think the rule should stay as is, because it's black and white values make it easy to judge when it was broken.
What do you guys mean Slater's hand written rules? Is there some historical incident you are referring to?
Overlapping heats is Slater's invention. He came up with it, maybe mid-2000s, to overcome protracted contest draws. Can keep the same amount of surfers on tour but get a contest done in less time.
But yeah, his concept.
If Billy Kemper isn’t going out the back, why would anybody else in this progressive surfing comp?
Makua was right, IMHO. In fact, he was often good in the booth today.
With then taking off where they do they might as well just have the comp at Haleiwa, would be much better for competitors and punters.
Fair call!!
Actually a pretty good call!!
Admittedly it’d be a bit boring to watch but IMHO it’s a shame they aren’t surfing from out the back all the way through so we can see who’s got the balls and ability. If WSL want a world champion who is a genuine all round surfer, then it’s reasonable to require the Pros to surf in the style appropriate to some of the unique the waves on the tour Eg. Tubes at Pipeline, big wave power carves at Sunset etc
I agree. IMO, its boring as batshit.
IMO, I dont think there's really any mystery as to why they are not taking off out the back.
As for the judging, well, I am beginning to wonder if the WSL create a bit of controversy for entertainment's purposes?
Morg, if they wanted a world champion who is a genuine all round surfer they wouldn't have a winner-takes-all final at bloody Trestles.
The integrity of the world championship ended the moment they made that decision. Toledo can get last place at Pipeline, Teahupoo and G-Land, and still scrape into the final 5 for a chance to win it all.
As far as I'm concerned, being world champion means less now than winning Teahupoo and the Pipe Masters.
Agreed.
Kanoa's 9.77 was the funniest thing I've seen since Caddyshack.
Between your thoughts Stu and Pops, makes sense for Sunset specifically. Rule amendment in order.
Thanks for the credit Stu.
I agree with Sasha that the surfing they're doing on relatively small boards on the inside bowl is sick... But with jetski assist and the shear ability of JJF and the rest, what's stopping them surfing like that from the outside bowls? We've seen what John's done at big main break on a 6'2 (?).
The point r.e. the difficulty of picking one that's going to stand up on the inside is a good one though.
" the difficulty of picking one that's going to stand up on the inside is a good one"
...even if you catch it from the inside...
they are not surfing out the back because they fucking can't handle the speed, manage it, do proper turns. they would all look like kooks. and since WSL "aerials and acrobatics first" judgement criteria -- and the lack of big points on big wave venues -- prevent any surfer who can handle those conditions to even make it to the tour, then you have the entire field -- minus Makua -- pretending that there were not huge 15 feet waves breaking on the outside
When it's big enough for 'outside' Sunset they should get the jetskis to drop them out there after each wave.
If they then want to paddle inside that's up to them
#1 Surf Journo sails off course into uncharted waters...
Again Stu goes where no surf journos dare to go...
Such an open honest inquisition opens a can of worms.
Such excellent pondering from the crew.
Fellow swellnetonian Tim could chart Stu's voyage to the Outer Limits.
Pretty sure he's been fished out or flushed outta some WSL outer banks.
Crew request Tim's inside knowledge on this one...
tbb can drop a hint...
That VIP Chinese Spy yacht camped on Pipe outta bank impact zone during the final?
Ok! This rambling makes no sense but it does go half way to explaining why Outta banks are off limits.
WSL Comp Zones are flexible & boss over 30kms of coastline or maybe more.
tbb recalls many Oz comps Sunny/Goldie/WA recently broke their banks & went on Safari.
More often to search for more swell but Bells or Sunset often seek less swell.
*BWT looks like blindfolded pinball with astronauts & alien space craft disintegrating one another.
Nazare Fog Horn switched off + no navigational jet ski flags / lighting (Surfers & shipping all sail blind).
But how is it so...well, each BWT event is near a safe Harbour or cove / Port for sea rescue access.
*Hazardous Seas > Outer Pipe / Sunset are exposed & outta reach for safe patient return time.
Very few could return unassisted from a sweeping Pipe / Sunset outta bank."
WSL must comply with Authorities to run Men's Comp close to shore in such Hazardous Conditions.
This is why women's Pipe comp was postponed on the big day!
*Priority Discs
Firstly! WSL Take Off Zone should comply with Priority Disc sight line (Unwritten Rule)
We heard complaints where Priority Discs were less than clear to competitors ( # Priority!)
Electro interference is Taboo > Big screen is ruled out for priority in case of hackers or code.
Offset part obscured High Mounted rotation of (1-2m) (P) Squares of Intense Techno Colour. (re: Bells)
Just gets swamped by a sea side of surf stickers.
Most Comps are ultra tight for VIP views & will fight off Prime View to Priority Discs (Bury the shit!)
Also note the need for Hand signal Codes for assist & Time, needs to engage with Caddies & Judges.
Bells / Margs are also a long way from (P) Discs & are often caught out on (P) Calls!
Difference being these breaks have in part, near havens for Ski Patrol. (Unsure as to message relays!)
Unlawful Reform
During overlap heats, meaning Outer bank surfer may impede on fellow priority contestant.
As above article suggests....'first half of the heat'.
This may very well interfere with the priority heat. (No! It Shouldn't but it looks like it might!)
WSL Comp Areas are flexible (No written Law) Surfers are informed with decisions on the day.
Being Hazardous Surf ...places vital importance on keeping within the Primary Take off Zone.
This comes back to that Yacht being free to surf outta Pipe bank but less so the WSL competitor.
eg: Surfer 3 on outer bank may unintentionally interfere on Primary 1/2 Priority Take Off Zone.
Possibility to sit / stall or surfer to block inside to favour a team mate in a 2 x 2 combo heat.
Most of these interference rules are for Points / Twin Peaks but not twin priority reform wave (Rare).
Recall Bells : Jordy caught Judges sleeping to exploit priority to dangerously take out Italo...ruthless!
Reckon if any surfed in from a "Non Priority" outta bank...you'd better get a lawyer son.
WSL usually set 1 Primary Hawaiian Peak,
Should a competitor defiantly paddle outside The Zone to take off & ride back inside.
Well that's dangerous / unsportsmanlike & interference would apply. (Likely be disqualified from Comp.)
Superyacht
Hazardous Surf Warning yet Midway thru Pipemaster Final a Yacht approaches Comp Zone.
Within 50m of Comp Buoy the Yacht camps on the impact zone of the outta Pipe Bank.
If ocean craft can Boss outer bank in WSL Final then Surfers must be locked inside the Buoys.
No security moved on this yacht despite it being close enough to divert swell lines.
One must assume a ride on outta bank never scores until surfer enters Primary Peak!
Then be in breach or risk of Priority interference.
Request for Stu : (Part 2) What are the WSL Outta limits!
How or even if WSL Judges score "Bigger Shit hot Secondary peak rides beyond WSL Buoys"!
Jet Skis & Comp Buoys
Buoys don't just mark comp perimeter but also dictate surfer / priority assist drop off location.
Skis are obliged to drop Surfer 30 secs from ( Primary Take Off Zone )
Never any mention of a Jetski exiting the Marshalling Area with or without a surfer.
This may or not become a breach to Outer Bank...( Eg: Ski / caddy may negate assist beyond Buoy.
Meaning...Comp surfer may surf outer bank but Ski assist is not obliged to Tow our fetch beyond Buoy!
This is a long paddle on yer own & any altercation with Yachts or injury, places surfer at fault.
This is borderline : Compare Teahupoo Surf caddy access (vs) Pipe beach caddy access.
Again! It may not be etched in stone but Skis comply with Primary Take off Zone Buoys & Paddle time.
Reckon if Stu bribed the Ski Pilot to unhitch from the carousel...won't be returning as the champ.
Could backdoor the Lot & inside surfer drops in & claims interference by some breaching Sea Serpent
Hero outer bank surfer robbed of his best ever surfing display of the Comp.
Repeat : "Take off Zone" is everything & surfers know how to snake any Blurred lines with Discs.
In this case we all see a Yacht on outer Pipe...safe bet that line-up is outer bounds for WSL surfers.
So we can believe the same perimeter Buoys prohibit outer Sunset.
North Shore Lifeguards ruled Hazardous seas >
WSL need to abide & would of won favour by restricting Comp Zone inshore. (Green Sticker!)
WSL + Lifeguards have no BWT port facility or Safe Harbour to mount a Hazardous Sea Rescue
Outer Banks are therefore a different kettle of fish or a bridge too far...a poisoned chalice.
If a Pro's leggy snapped...not all surfers would return to shore safely in front of World Media.
swellnet copped a pasting over "Live Incidents"...none wanna run a Hazardous Comp to cop abuse.
OMG did VIP Pipe Yachties just lay a wreath for the Caio reef sacrifice! {RIP} Sportsmanship!
Yes! Exactly that sort of thing invited swellnet crew's comments live in the Pipe final.
Outta bank risk exposes security just as that Yacht Comp breach made fun of the Pipe Final.
The GOAT won but none noticed that there, Chinese Tech Yacht hot wiring our Pacific NBN.
Outer Pipe / Sunset are exposed to the elements & both slip between WCT / BWT.
Even with no Ocean Hazard Warning, the Take Off Zone (P) logistics + safe prompt return is trying.
tbb repeats that much written here blurs the lines of local land-sea entry / exit laws. (Endless & Open)
Judge / Stu note Outer Bank/s looked the Goods but WSL are equally flashing red lights & reeling it in!
Exposes that Kelly / WSL are geared towards Spotlights & arenas more than riding the wild Surf.
Damn you! #1 Surf Journo Stu...
The answer you seek seems to lie somewhere between all Comp Levels...
Meaning Comp Surfers are groomed enough to know better not venture astray in fear of a penalty.
ISA / SA / WSL all dance around your proposition but all judge outta bank off limits.
Clue : It's less hidden in Priority Rules but please to check 'WSL Glossary' for Head Judge Key Zones.
https://www.worldsurfleague.com/asset/29926/2021+WSL+Rule+Book+-+Decembe...
Here's how the Head Judge lays out his course.
What's unusual is each day the comp site layout is determined by the impact zone outwards.
1. Primary Take Off Zone.
2. Priority Zone.
3. Contest Area 1.
4. Exemption Ride Zone.
5. Contest Area 2.
6. Competition Area.
7. Event Site. Licensing Arrangement or by Emergency / Police Orders ( Hazards / Sharks / Pandemic )
? The Outer Bank is deemed as far out as Pluto by today's Comp compliance.
There are tonnes more Comp precincts but all are much less Surfing focused...
tbb did some Long Ride research to uncover a harsh modern reality...
WSL Ranch (1 minute ride) is longest wave on tour...(J Bay / Bells clock around 30-45 sec rides!)
All crew know Ranch & Superbank are gone + pros forgo outer banks-heads & pull off on long walls?
Bingo! WSL don't like or reward long rides...this is very much penalized in both mind & Comp rules.
Here's another Flash Point going unnoticed...all Rip Curl Oz Gromz finals are held in Urbnsurf.
That's right! ALL future WSL Surfers are living breathing Wavepool Models (Every last one of them!)
Meaning the Comp zones are bricking up solid....outer bank will soon be in another galaxy.
WSL command attention to their gladiator arena for Disney theatrical drama.
Surfers become Elo's actors...Claims & hand gestures...talkies...VIP paddle battles etc...
Each of above numbers represent a priority Zone & each are equally important & will ban a surfer.
Very little is made of this as Pro surfers are brainwashed to comply since gromdom.
Here's what they mean....
1. Means the Area of the Line Up that is considered the "Primary Area for Surfers to 'Begin their Ride' within the 'Comp Area' as determined by Priority Judge!" (Sounds like a Vax Hub!)
Twin Peaks (Far Apart) that meet at some point 1st surfer to feet rule! > (n/a for WSL 'Priority rule')
Extra : Outer Bank Jet Skis harbour risk + would cut across swell lines of Primary Take Off Zone
Travelling around would be too time consuming & risky in open Hazardous Surf + 2 way Communication
The outer bank Surfer recovery time must account for Sharks / Drownings / Up turned Ski in main break.
The inside Comp Buoy marks a 30sec drop off Priority paddle battle time to the Primary Take off Zone.
2. Once a Priority Surfer paddles 'Outside' (Includes Inside) eg: N/S/E/W > Priority is suspended!
Judges may or not 'Warn' the Surfer to re enter the Priority Zone before Priority Disc Changes.
If a surfer lost priority by paddling to outer bank then new priority inside surfer could take his/her ride.
But! Inside surfer must do so in a safe Sportswomanlike manner. (eg: No cutting off or crossing paths!)
The outer bank ride would likely be scored on a secondary scale, less than Head Judge's Primary Zone.
Crew would score a [10] only to see Judges Hold up [5] WTF ...( Non Primary Take off > Less Score!)
In a High Risk Setting ( Sharks / Hazardous Seas ) Outer bank surfer would be warned of Sponsor wrath.
Buoys dictate Surfer drop off...Unauthorised use (re: non primary outer bank) loses priority.
Outer Bank surfer forgoes priority thru out Heat.
C'mon! tbb...There must be a doggy door for the endangered Hodads!
Ok! Had to think outside the square...but yes! Crew don't need an invite to crash Elo's VIP Pool Party.
Priority surfers can prone backwash to outer break then Surf WOTD thru Primary Take off Zone. (F.U.)
At this point in time the Surfer can reclaim Priority & send any Snakes back down their ladders.(Win!)
3>4>5 Contest Zone 1 (100m Exemption Zone) Contest Zone 2
a) Surfers may take off in Comp Zone 1 & ride a wave thru 100m zone
b) Surfers may take off in Comp Zone 1 & ride thru 100m zone thru Comp Zone 2 if safe to do so.
c) Surfers cannot take off in 100m zone to surf thru either Zone
Obviously these Comp Zone rules are general as to Comp ages & if similar Sponsor type!
Surfer cannot take off outside Comp Zone. (Marked by Buoys or defined by Head Judge)
This would include any outer bank take off zone outside of Buoys! (Ride would score Zero) + Warning!
C'mon tbb! This does not mean you can't surf or be penalised for surfing outside a Comp Area. Does it?
Ordinarily yes! But let's have a crack! > Trade wind Shifting Peak lights up during yer Comp.
Any Twin Peak side winder ride that sweeps a Surfer further out from set Comp Buoy scores a [10]
As before...A priority surfer may be washed into next Comp Area but paddles back in to reclaim Priority.
See earlier...once inside Comp area can ride an outer bank set thru to reclaim priority on Primary Bank!
The strict rule is not to ride stand up from outside Comp Zone to inside Comp Zone.
These examples aren't said, but crew can see that none can penalize them for such.
So it's not that the outer bank is directly off Limits, but it's death by a 1,000 cuts...those days are over!
PS: Wonder if a Zippy beach/jump/stand/flick on replacement board blows priority...Charlie's call!
Getting closer to the day that such an innocent stunt will likely cost the title...& no one laughed!
Ok! Best if we refile that in one of them batty swellnet 10 year predictions!
The latest Woz rulebook came out on April 15th, and I could've sworn there'd be an amendment to the rule that penalised Slater for the Sunset incident, however there's nothing there.
Rule 11.09 (a)(ii) Right of Way using the Priority System
The Surfer's opponent(s) can paddle for and Ride the same wave in any direction and be scored providing they do not;
(ii) Cross in front of or bottom turn around the Surfer with priority, regardless if the Surfer is up and Riding a wave or in the process of catching a wave.
No change.
Great little chat here with Antman Patterson talking story about Sunset. Some classic yarns.
Love the huge wrap he gives Tony Ray, saying HE was the surfer he used to watch out there to try to understand how to approach the lineup. https://podcasts.google.com/feed/aHR0cHM6Ly9hbmNob3IuZm0vcy8xYmZhMTNjYy9...
That’s interesting BD. T-Ray is a massively underrated surfer IMHO. In big Vicco waves he absolutely rips. I’ve read Kelly amongst others rate him very highly. On a side note his brother Michael is a great shaper, had his boards for years until I moved north. Respect for the Ray family, chilled out ego free people
Agreed @surfalot67. I think one of Australia's greatest ever but very underground. Interesting history w Kelly. I know he beat kelly in solid french beachies in what might have even been slaters first final?? And then the Eddie where T ray was about to be announced the winner of the most prestigious surf ckmp on the planet befiore ol KS tapped the judges on the shoukder, pointed out a mathematical error, and was duly crowned the winner.