Yeah nah........

The good days are still super busy around here (Vic Surfcoast) in lockdown and every surf there are heads you've never seen before. This is more to do with the stupid pace of development in the past 10 or so years than anything else.

Pretty sure Lennox Head and surrounds has seen a similar population explosion even though I haven't actually been there for about 25 years. I doubt very much on a good day out at that point in these times that it's all rainbows & unicorns and 'you go this one' etc.

Another point to be factored in is that during lockdown there are a loooooot of people with less or no work / working from home / more free time / kids not in school / limited activity options etc.

So what do they all do? Paddle out and stink up the surf of course!

Of the two descriptors in the opening, I’m with the latter. A healthy level of localism is for the better

I'm a new local in a quiet stretch. Yesterday morning I was avoiding eye contact in the carpark as I was suiting up with a blow-in a merc suv equally frothing. completely disarmed me with friendly banter. gave myself a stern talking to afterwards.
its def in the genes.

Who's up, who's next? Mmmmmm. Not sure 76. But a nice thought.

If everyone would just stay away from Currumbin and let me shred alone, it'd be a much better world - thanks for your time and consideration.

Except for so many people trying to move to QLD from NSW and Vic they had to stop everyone for two weeks...

Covid for me means my closest beach is super uncrowded. At high tide you can be guaranteed there will be no-one out except for a few swimmers if I go for a paddle. The fact that the beach is more than 5 kilometers up a river with no chance of swell is something I try to ignore. Get a wave for me - I am thinking of you!

Good read, couple of corrections:

"No travel outside the council boundary is allowed for NSW and Vicco surfers"
I wish this was the case but EVERYBODY is limited to 5km radius in Vic right now.

"Unlike the USA, Europe, South Africa, and New Zealand, Australia's pandemic response has always allowed surfing."
Surfing was actually listed as a banned activity on the MP (as it was considered metropolitan) for around 3 weeks in August last year. As far as I know a few were questioned by police but commonsense prevailed and there was no fines and the ruling was changed.

Yep your a local till you go somewhere else.

The insane city beach covid crowds are a real struggle if you live there.

The isolated non metro places are a joy if you live there

When isolation breaks the city dwellers will be leaving in mass numbers for a quick surf, weekend away or a holiday

I see the isolated non metro surfers will be quite aggressive to anyone new that wasn't there before until they get overrun like the city dwellers have been with the lockdown covid crew who have taken up surfing with gusto

It will be interesting to see how it plays out cause once travel restrictions are lifted in Syd and Melb the crowds in regional areas will be very heavy

i am lucky to live in a relatively unpopulated area of the stretch between newcastle and sydney. the regular/local surfers in my part of the world all know each other through various endeavours - work, sport, boardriders, etc. in a five year period they also now know me - a blowin. i am happy to say that, as i have done previously when moving to a new area, a healthy degree of respect, empathy and humour usually win over even the toughest crowds, it also helps if you can surf moderately well without bombing the best waves.... i have found that recent lockdowns have increased the crowds - but generally the crew is a bit more.... thankful.... to be doing what they enjoy. This is evident in the increased talk, banter, and general sharing going on in the water around here. Note, this doesnt seem to apply on saturdays and sundays.... personally, i am loving lockdown - the mid-morning surf check and shit talk, the late arvo session when the tide is right, and the extra time i spend with my family.... to be able to do all this and still get just as much work done makes me think this is a golden age in so many ways.

Geez, timing is everything.

This would have been very hard to read a few hours ago, but we're going to Level 3 meaning surfing is once again on the cards. Sans Aucklanders (sorry).

Enjoy your surfs, especially the quiet ones. And keep regulating things, even if softly softly.

not like that around here either, more and more people have fled the cities and bought here so its crowded with new locals who dont know and dont care and bring there fuked attitude with them same as they had where they came from.......

An interesting article Freeride, localism as viewed by a local and I didn't read any of it as gloating.

My view is from the other side...a non-local. Although I've been surfing in earnest since the late 80's, for a number of reasons I have not been able to make the all important move to the coast. Not for want of trying though, I did spend a couple of blissful years living down the south end of the goldie in the mid 90's before family matters drew me back to the big smoke again. So for most of my surfing life I've been making that fuckin' 1.5h drive from Melbourne down past Geelong and on to the surf coast. I never really gave localism much thought, just give everyone room to move and try not to be a dickhead in the surf.

Until march 2020 that was, when covid localism took off and I became acutely aware of who was in the car park, what cars they drove, boards and wetsuits they had etc. Locals? Non Locals, Melbourne covid dogs perhaps??? paranoia setting in. I quickly ripped the northern suburbs car dealers number-plate trims off my car..a dead give away for sure. Due to advancing age I had already started surfing bigger boards, but now I frequented lesser quality breaks with fewer crowds and tended to hang around spots with learners and ... god forbid...longboarders. Less aggro, angry entitled 'new' locals. Not such a bad thing having a quiet cruisy surf on an easy paddling stick with enthusiastic new surfers, makes a nice change after 30 odd years of hassling for waves on a 6' thruster in lineups full of over zealous core surfers.

So now nearly 18 months later and having missed out on the bulk of 2 years worth of lovely autumn/winters consistent swell and offshores, my surfs are whatever I can make of them in whatever conditions present themselves to me on the rare occasions I can get down the beach between lockdowns. Of course there's pressure to do family stuff on these rare occasions as well...but that's a whole other can of worms which led me to be a non-local which is best left alone!! So don't worry surfcoast locals, you won't see my bloated fat covid arse trying to get inside you on my overfoamed midlength at winky or boobs. I'll be quietly cruising around somewhere east or west of you snatching a few little dribblers where I can.

Lockdown localism Melbourne style.

ps Freeride, I've got a mate that lives in Grafton. Jesus I'd love to live there! Warm, sunny and only 45min to the beach. Its all perspective I guess.

here at Bells /Winki, the lockdown has doubled the amount of surfers...so many beginners on rubber s/bds surfing and trying to learn to surf........we now get up to 130 guys in the water , and 1/2 we've never seen before......
The population here on the Surf Coast has increased and we can all feel the affects of Armstrong Creek which is a satellite city 10 mins from Torquay.....what we are seeing now is a preview to the extra 100 000 people who will live in Torquay /AC....and all surf spot Car Parks on a nice weekend are full......we are full now and overflowing..
Wait till the new development at Lennox kicks in , and your surfing population goes thru the roof.....
Right now is the good old days!

Good article -
In civil life as in surfing life trying to connect and share is always more rewarding than successfully fighting for ressources.

I don’t care about angry locals and they don’t deter me because I know I will still get waves.
I connect with local crews occasionally and after small chat I make sure I on my best behaviour to perpetuate the good locals Behaviour.

I give away some waves when I’m more competent or better geared that other around and that always feel good :) I encourage everyone to try it

Lennox will get packed out again, mate. Hoards of Queenslanders coming your way in the near vaccinated future.

Cronulla crowds during this chinese virus are at epidemic levels I guess
they must live in the shire working from home, no work at all, learning
to surf or whatever the crowds are insane.

An uplifting write-up Steve, thanks.

Sunny Coast is wrecked. Can't believe how I took it for granted. No localism at all now. Lockdown did nothing, heaps of Mdore pricks were breaking the radius to surf the northern spots. New faces in each of my usual haunts - from north & south-facing to the beachie out the front of my house. Little respect is shown to the locals either. Mid-morning crowd lulls aren't a thing nowadays - it's constant, relentless & tiring.

It's everyone for themselves. Lineups are short-tempered & overpopulated. I'll find a pocket to myself & within 10 minutes I'll be bank-hopped. Not nearly as much space anymore. Times are weird here but I'm (selfishly) holding onto the hope that a sizable quantity of southerner mortgages will become unserviceable & they'll head back.

I'm missing the community aspect of surfing. I may as well surf Tea-Tree on the daily. Localism in moderate amounts is a terrific enforcer of respect - Yba is meh, but probably the only remaining spot with a semblance of it now. Envious.

It’s a temporary respite. The town here looks to be increasing in size by roughly 30 percent just in developments currently in progress, let alone the local shire plan which has it slated as doubling in size within a decade or so.

Surf pumped here today and the carpark was full. The lineup was mellow though with a peak early crowd of 15 surfers widely spread over several peaks. Everyone chilling and being friendly, talking dung and having a good time. By ten o’clock there was 8 out. 4-6 ft hollow peaks, barrels and ripable walls. Blue sky, dolphins surfing everywhere. Warm crystal clear water. Not a single sign of humanity beyond the crew surfing. No buildings, no cars visible. Kangaroos on the beach.

Crew were getting tubed on their own on the next beaches north and south about 1.5 kms away.

Enjoy it while we can.

Sounds like city surfing needs to be nuked from orbit.

Cheers for the read,Freeride.

It's weird to me how little traffic there is on the road and how full the beach carpark often is.
Bloody groms have got it good lately too , can't wait till they go back to school.
And there's quite a few 'locals' who've lived here for 'almost a year now' as well.
I miss having a few coldies with the crew at times and the usual banter that goes with it. Lockdown restrictions are also probably part of the reason there's noticeably more annoying chat time in the line-up between the local crew too,,,,, bugger off , I don't care , I've got enough dramas of my own.

It became way more busy here, lots of beginners too, and post-lockdown numbers remained high as if everyone caught the bug. Sorry for the bad news! Fortunately, the reefs remain relatively quiet and knowing when to surf them a challenging and time consuming process of trial and error. And they come with a risk newcomers are a still shy of.

Sorry to hear that people are being pushed away from coast FR. I know we don't see eye to eye on the 'identity politics' stuff but this is sort of what I mean by it when it comes to accessibility and concomitant access to place/respect/being a local in a lineup. Identity as structural e.g., seems like class being a big factor @ Lennox which will change who gets to be local and at top of pecking order in the long term lineup there. Hang in there! Lineups need crusty old goat herding redheads the world over.

Thx for the thoughts.

Can anyone that's not a trust fund kid under the age of 40 actually afford a house anywhere near a beach these days without having to sign up to a crippling mortgage [and not be able to surf]. Having to paddle out at any beach and cope shit from an old grump that brought a house on the headland in 1984 for $8k must be a tough pill to swallow for the next generation that has been forced inland by greedy investors, Air BNB and negative gearing. The old boy with a few investment properties on the headland always seems to make sure they take more than their fair share of waves too.

There’s a bloody large local crew that surf the point, hard to believe it’s the Lennox Love-in you’re describing.
Nice to hear though.

I’ve surfed with some deadset bell end locals there over the years that even the the Dalai Lama would struggle to give a wave away to.

A question - how long do blow-in pro surfers take before they are given the local card?

Enjoyed the article FR. Good food for thought.

PS - the surf coast sounds done

NW WA has been much more crowded than usual as crew head up there instead of Indo. I haven’t managed a trip so couldn’t comment about the vibe in the water, but I’m sure the Kalbarri locals will have been welcoming the extra crowds with open arms, haha

I am hearing of an awful lot of Queenslanders up NW atm.

As for the far south, inquisitive bronze whalers over populating my local isolated.

Been some good surf as of late on the MP, crowds are less than normal, pretty easy to find a wave to yourself. Mainly locals and blowcals, and a small number of blowins. Got to say the hyped-up blowcals running around like they're going to miss out are harder to deal with than the blowins. Maybe it's the primitive hunter-gather brain finding them more of a threat than someone who is going to leave at the end of the day.
You're a blowin local unless you sprouted your first pube where you live.

It’s been like the good old days in my neck of the woods with just a few locals enjoying quality waves. I have noticed, however, that localism has been like the bad old days with the odd blowin getting the full grilling and marching orders from some of the more hardcore locals. Makes me cringe at times but it certainly keeps the lineup uncrowded. Just when I was enjoying the uncrowded bliss of lockdown, I tear my MCL and now I can’t even drive to the beach to watch mates scoring epic, uncrowded waves. Karma’s a bitch!

Far out. Hooting, calling people on - pipe dream here unless it is a rare moment with just the locals. It all started last covid and never went back. What was a peak of 10 is now 70+. The travelling circus have little or no care, whether that's sitting in the way, paddling inside not to the shoulder, doing the insideathon where everyone is to deep, paddling straight out up the inside and thinking its ok to call those waiting off, raiding you if you managed to sneak a quiet peak with a rare one - or even turning the car off checking the surf so they don't fume people to death - they have a window to surf and, as a generality, a mentality of fuck everyone else. It's feeding into their ill-mannered kids too. A great place has been turned into a shit show. Wonder how local the blowin would start to be if it happened in their suburbs. Let's get these kids back to school and the circus clowns back to their offices and work Gladys. Look out quiet Coastal towns cause city/cityish beach locals will be moving in droves in search of what once was - the peaceful midweek wave.

Since the Rip Curl Pro at Merewether and Lockdown, crowds have seriously doubled. There use to be “gentleman’s hour” approx 8.30am when grooms went to school and workers went to work. Now we have aggressive hassles in the lineup which defeats the purpose of going surfing. I really feel for the guys who get so worked up about it as its affecting their mental health. My solution is to accept what it is at the moment, surf whenever I can, ride my MTB and drink beer. “Beaches, boards, bikes and beer”

I equate it to nightclubs, with bouncers being the locals enforcing the rules of surf etiquette on entry to the waves. Some bouncers do a great job, others are pure wankers. Some possibly driven to be wankers by a line full of etiquette breakers.

Like driving, we wouldn't need road rules if there was only one car, but lots of cars requires rules to keep things fair and orderly and police to pull the wankers into line or get them off the road.

And if a bouncer or a cop are overrun by wankers they have no choice but to fend for themselves.

Kinda where localism and surf etiquette intertwine I guess.

If you lived here before Covid it's night and day to the numbers after Covid. Development has slowly seen a new head or two arrive each year, but Covid's seen an explosion, unfortunately many doing the wrong thing either knowingly or not.

To people who don't live here, or those who only surf weekends, 10 on a spot may not seem like many, but when you're used to getting it alone increases like that hurt your soul. From empty mid-morning/lunch surf's during the week to 20 out all day every day, it's a tough pill to swallow when it feels like Covid has made that happen overnight... and there's no going back.

I live at Maroubra and the Covid crowds are crippling. At 7.30am yesterday, there were 200 people in the water for 3-4ft sth swell straight-handers with the occasional peeler. If they are all living within 5km, my name’s Kelly Slater!
There have been ugly incidents at the sth end recently. When it’s on, you’d have to be an idiot to not know the hierarchy. I’m not a A-grade surfer, so I don’t attempt to get waves on the best peaks when it’s pumping. I’ve only been here 5 years, so I’m no ‘local’ but if you keep your yap shut, nod at people, say g’day, sit wide-ish and wait your turn and go when it is your turn, you’ll get waves, Covid or not.

Northern NSW is pretty well officially f$#@ed... Poor Lennox.

There are two sides to Localism. (at Least). If one is courteous and doesn't waste waves, often the locals will give you a few. Trying to 'take them uninvited' can end in tears.
The new breed of Covidiot surfer has brought a new era of stupidity and carnage. The new breed gets told Man on the Inside has right of way... try doing that several times in a row and you'll get dropped in by every local or sent in. One Internet Surf Coach recently got himself filmed at Avalon and said you have to sit way inside everyone to make sure you get lots of waves. That's insighting a Riot! A friend of mine recently got a piece of skull broken off by some idiot throwing his board, whilst paddling out and not looking behind. He has all sorts of ongoing problems from that incident.
Fitting into the Line-Up is a key element. Everyone should always be conscious of the 'Pecking Order' and the conditions. The break needs to be studied before paddling out and this is one thing the new 'Entitled' breed take no notice of.
Anything that stops the greedy and the carnage, is good in my book. If that's 'Localism' .... bring it on.

The more a fading surfer avoids going softly into the light the more they can appear to present as a anachronism. Be it in Sydney, Lennox or Timbuctoo (or are they poor land locked slobs, naïve in the ways of our salty waterman).

I'm too young to reminisce and I'm not demented enough (yet) to bore anyone under the age of thirty with tales of yesteryear.

History is always rewritten fondly by the aging, it greases the rusty wheels on the way to St Peter and provides a false sense of comradery for those with little in common, bar location.

Take note, when the crowds return. Shut your pie hole and act like a grown up. The water is a public space to enjoy.

Note, I can see the surf from my place. Wow.

Woah, get back off the high horse. We are talking about surfing here and localism in the surf.

Sorry if I wasn’t clear.

In any event powerlines from Bondi, a view of the Pass, Dolphin Point....it still seems a little irrelevant unless the article was about complaining that something “special” has been lost on the north coast. And maybe that was more the point from a local, as declared.

So in reality it’s just more complaining about increases in population and the inevitable changes due to economic growth. It’s a losing battle that should not be be policed based on duration in a locality. That’s madness.

I’m in the regions.

As you point out, localism is as much about knowing people in the lineup and feeling like you belong in the lineup. That comes from time in the lineup and time living in a spot and time getting to know the local people, the local shopowners, the local sports clubs, and the local pubs.

A lot of the frustration that’s generated in the surf comes from hordes you don’t know and don’t care to know coming in taking waves and taking places in the natural rotation in the water among people you know and spend time with. They might be nice people but they don’t bring anything to, nor contribute anything to the local community.

Whenever you’re in the water, good waves are limited within the time period you’re out there. Everyone’s happy to share with mates, and mates’ kids. Giving to people you know and love is a thing of beauty, as you touched on. When others come in and become the ‘takers’, localism sets in.

The pandemic, in quieter spots at least, has taken us back to how we want it to be. Good or not? Dunno….

Hmmm bit churlish nitpicking grammar in a surf forum. However, thank you for your pedantic observation.

Your article is a little elitist. Mentioning how lucky you are not be living in said suburbs. Not very egalitarian but, that’s what the articles about. Not sharing with those less fortunate

Just try to keep your cool post lockdown.

Good luck to you.

I hope this made sense.

No worries.

Just my opinion. Sorry if I offended. Was just looking at it through a different prism.

There's so many dots to connect here but I hope one of them surfers connect sooner rather than later is that the "surfing industry" doesn't serve us, and hasn't served us for decades. It serves capital. A big reason why crowds are going through the roof is not because people who can barely swim or know what a rip is have suddenly felt a burning desire to paddle out into an ocean they don't understand and ride waves. It's because the surf industry, and the various other industries that pro surfers sell surfing and the planet out to in order to make a buck, have encouraged them to do so. It serves capital and the wealthy, filling landfill with fast fashion and lineups with people that were very happy not being there until they were convinced it was cool.

For sure surf is more crowded on MNC, no school, uni from home, shops closed, more working from home, still plenty of waves and places to go to avoid crowds even in the middle of town. If you can surf everyday it's all good, would hate to be a weekend only surfer though.
I can't complain my daughter has got the bug in the last year.

'Locals' run surf schools to make a buck living on the coast, encouraging participation by all and sundry, then complain that the surf is crowded? It's a self-fulfilling prophesy...

Tales of winners and losers in the fallout of lockdowns with some trends for the worse not to be reversed.

Dirk Ziff should read this thread and he might understand why the messianic mission statement of the WSL to bring surfing to the masses as a cure for all ills, grates so much with his core audience.

The tales show how finely balanced the surfing pleasure equation is between pleasure and pain with crowds creating the tipping point.

Thankfully beachbreaks and very early sessions give a reliable escape hatch in many locations. But the contrast with the dreamy videos we see and reality can be stark.

“ It’s a place to be shared irrespective of your location on land. No?”

Yes and no.

And the surfing/bush track comparison is a poor one.

Degree of localism away from urban centres can be influenced by the type of your local break. If it is a point break then there is a concentrated take off and winds can further concentrate the crowds. If your local is a beach break it tends to spread the crowd and also regulates the beginners with the paddle out.

Re the surf schools, despite an abundance of schools I actually thought a couple years ago there were less groms in the water than when I grew up, possibly due to devices and gaming.
Post Covid though with school lockdowns and parents at home and taking their kids out , grom numbers are definitely back up.

Maybe localism and racism was always based as much on fear of viruses as scarce resources. Look what happened to indigenous people in Hawaii and Australia in the 19th century.

disappointing

I dunno on this one. Crowds are up, the new young people are lovely to talk to when you get around to it and you can meet some remarkable people, for example someone who has overcome cancer. It can be stoking to see them go further and achieve a late takeoff etc etc. It can be mind numbing when some just paddle inside the waiting pack time after time after time after time after time... Hopefully in time they will understand the rules of the lineup, if not you can have a lot of fun paddling the greedy ones so deep they are at the next break, and so introduce them to new people. In the meantime, surf faster, on rail more, and inspire through word and deed. There's definitely been a lost generation of groms, most taking it up are young adults into midlife. I guess Fox Racing and E-sports accounted for many groms.

Good read & worthy topic freeride76
*Hard to ever say first...there is local ancient history to this topic...
Yowies defended Beach > Bird -Carpet Snake People + Saltwater > Colonization + Seachange.
Can revisit timeless Beach incursions in one Iconic Dicathais Orbita Twin Spiral
1989 > Now resting in Brunswick Valley Heritage Park...tbb will include the story of giant Beach Police.
https://starlore.com.au/2014/08/19/aboriginal-spiral-lore-ngarakbal-gith...

Oz had 500 different Nations of peoples, each with their own ways & Languages.
As ever & always most lived along the Coastline centering on Bays & River Mouths
East Coast Saltwater tribes had their own Surf Gods / Fish Trap designer Surf breaks / Unique Surf Craft.
They all sang along the Milky Way Emu Dreaming Trails that are the basis of Today's Roads.

Any tribesman caught surfing another line-up would face the death penalty.
Strictly only nominated tribal ( Runners ) were permitted to paddle thru neighbouring lineups.
During Seasonal Ceremonies ocean side beach parades & paddle migrations were permitted.
Central East Coast Burleigh / Ballina Surf Carnivals drew 1,000's as today's Surf / Craft Festivals

1800's Convict Escapees tried their Luck south along the beaches
1st military Outpost was located at Border on the Beach to prevent Qld escapees into NSW.
1910's Train Loads of Bne > Southern Point Surfers banned NSW nude Surfers
19I9 Qld Quarantine Camp Points again banned NSW Surfers (Birth of D'bah Surf break)
1920's Board riders banned from Southern Points.
1920's Beachgoers gave way to Daily Planes- Joy Flights & still do.
1940's War Years - Yanks banned everyone from surfing occupied Southern Points
1950's Beachgoers gave way to Sand Miners > Bulldozers.
1960/70's Boardriders were banned from Southern Point Breaks
1960/70's Vagrant Act > NSW (Camping) surfies were raided & booted out by Qld Police
2010's Bodysurfers bans (2mths/yr) Hazardous Surf 'Warning' / Pathogens / Sharks / Lightning
Similar bans now grow in time & spread interstate lasting 3-8 days at a time.
2010's Cyclone Warning + Shark Alarms now clear Boardriders
2010 Private Surf Comps / Beach bars / Ads / Movie leases ban Locals weeks-months at a time.
Light Rail / Foreshore Leasing > Fit Classes > Coffee >Markets remove and hive off Beach Car Parks
SLSA Drone Zones now Clear an Patrolled Ocean/Beach Path & Landing Pad.
2020/21 Lockdown Cross Border bans > States 10km > Council bans - eg: The Spit / Surfers / Cooly.

tbb is only scratchin' the surface...Crew know that Dredging / Migrations & Dogs can also clear lineups.
If it all sounds a bit too dire > [Disclaimer] tbb is well into a self imposed 3rd year Lockdown.

Well then lol my local is south of Sydney . Moved to western Sydney be closer for work . But since lockdown start of June I can’t even get my toe wet . It sucks balls . Were I grew up and was born will always be my local . I will never surf Sydney beaches from all the crowds no thanks .

Slightly off topic.

Have two mates I surf with on the reg. Both fit, good surfers. Both solid family men, empathetic, community minded, ready and willing to help out. Both do jobs where these qualities are important.

In the water one is very conscious of making sure everyone is getting a fair crack. Will only ever sit inside if it’s well and truly his go. Could get heaps more waves if he wanted to. Only time he gets angry is if someone paddles out, acts like a nob and messes up the equilibrium.

The other turns into a sneaky, slimy, entitled rattlesnake psycho prick in the water. Totally selfish. Always on the inside, gotta have every wave. No concern for anyone else. When someone finally gets so frustrated they drop in on him, I’ve seen him, on multiple occasions, nearly maim people flicking his board, then express righteous outrage at the injustice of being dropped in on. Can create a terrible vibe in the water.

I’ve perhaps discerned subtle personality differences that account for this contrast. But I find it strange that two people who are so similar on land, who both behave in a way that promotes social cohesion, can behave so differently in the water.

I’m okay with localism, mostly. As the article suggests, I think it’s normal human behaviour.

I avoid the heavily localised spots. If there’s a local vibe in the water I’ll just sit inside, do my best to stay outta the way, and try for scraps. Always another day.

.

While every surfer will have a local, or two, I just think paddling out with the mentality that you are a local is a somewhat dismal and entitled state of mind.

It tends to lead to aggravation, usually your own. The locals at my ‘other’ local are invariably good and welcoming people, and the visitors tend to be respectful too, and there are a few spots inside national parks where surfers go but I don’t think anyone who lives around them can claim that ‘this is my local’.

These are my thoughts, feel free to embrace or reject them.

Congrats on the gig Steve, by the way.

Always interested to read what you put out. Hope it helps you pay the bills to stay local.

All comments good ( Sprout got it right) as an essential worker who can only has limited time late afternoons and weekends the crowds and etiquette has been horrendous everywhere and my new found FMO isn't helping. I will note the pre covid regulars surfers arn't the problem. cant wait for the pubs, weekend sport, shops, gyms to reopen so the crowds might thin. (if your a covid surfer please show some respect and share - dont paddle for every wave, Ta)

The combo of covid travel restrictions and the relentless barrage of social media edits and photos from the insta generation have combined to create the perfect storm for crowds in the north west. 100 guys at tombies, 40 guys fighting over the postage stamp sized take off spot at centres...just another day in the N/W. The ocean belongs to everyone and this is an iconic surf destination but the place is being choked by humans to a level that is not sustainable from either a surfing or environmental perspective. Time for the east coast based surf media and those involved in it to give places like this a chance to breathe. Don't know how the regulars at Lennox or Angourie would feel if 60 car loads of west aussies turned up and took the place over for every swell over 2 ft.?? The good times are over

Does a complete novice or even competent person ever walk into a boxing gym and tell the champ when he’ll be sparring in the ring and when he is to use the heavy bag and speed ball?
Nah...didn’t think so...

I've read some crap on this site over the years. This article might just take the cake.

Good article, feel blessed i can ride my pushy to my local and surf with a good crew... Does get busy at times but generally good vibe.
Try to treat unfamiliar faces well as I love to travel and I am the blow in then...

The COVID crowds on the beaches and especially Manly when there's half a decent wave is insane. I usually escape away on weekends but obviously can't at the moment and even going out there with the right attitude, low expectations etc, the amount of clue-less adult learners on mid-lengths etc and with no idea on etiquette does get to me at times. It's also people who shouldn't be out and need to learn the basics down South Steyne and earn their stripes.

I'm one that can work the lineup fairly well even when its busy but over the last week with it being the only options, at times it's unsurfable and a human soup. The quicker things start to move on again and people can travel the better.

I've got a few friends out of town and they're scoring pumping empty waves with the current restrictions, Savour it as once it opens again there'll be a huge influx again.

Can't wait for international borders to open again as well, as we're seeing those quieter corners being filled up with a lot more people than usual, like NW WA mentioned above, and we need that pressure to be released.

after only having less than 5 surfs this year with 3 of those in a pool, when i can finally get home and surf my local reefs, be fucked if im going to be kind and generous to some ball bag I dont know , too many cockheads surf these days, I love localism, regulated lineups and dont mind twisting off at fucksticks with no respect. Everybody is welcome if you are a GC and wait your turn.

The forest was shrinking but they kept voting for the axe.The axe was clever and convinced the trees that because its handle was made of wood,it was one of them.

Ive lived at many famous breaks over many years and always found that the crowd would find its own level and momentum especially when things became more serious and worthy of being there for a long session. There are always personalities at every break which are just who they are and you just let em go on what they want. There are always good waves to be had if your mind isn't bound to a quota. The greedy wave pig visitors always get sorted pretty quick with some almost artistic burns. I enjoy the banter in the water at the busy places, the old locals stories and always get a few odd good ones as well but just as often I will put on my backpack with a sandwich and water and walk several k's to be alone on a good but B grade wave and enjoy that just as much. Many many times to my surprise those B grade wave spots became a lonely and memorable A grade session of a lifetime.

Dont really care who thinks they own what at the minute ...But wanna remind those drifters we are in lockdown for a reason covid 19 is bad shit ....im on the MNC where its usually trackies and flanno but im seeing a lot of lorna jane and calvin kline under new faces ....we all gota think before we travel at the minute ...and i feel for melbourne over 200 days locked down ...

Slightly tangentially:

A very positive experience of localism (from my perspective) was operating at Supers in J-Bay when I was there in 2017(pumping waves for 3 weeks) and 2018 (not so good).
A pack of between 10-12 locals basically "block off" the top of the point (Boneyards) and no travelling surfer gets a look in. Unfair I hear you cry...but no. The locals regulate a line up full of frothing international surfers from all over the globe. If you sit near to (but not in) the local pack, and don't be a dick and wait your turn, you will get the"nod" from the locals. Got the nod to go on quite a few occasions...300 metre speed runs down to Impossibles are your reward.
One Zaffer (from Plett, I think) was making a total arse of himself and burning all the travelling surfers, but made it a bridge to far by hassling the J-Bay locals...he was soon sorted out by "Fat Frank", much to the amusement of all us visitors- and he never bothered any of us again.
I really miss travelling

san Guine - "A pack of between 10-12 locals basically "block off" the top of the point (Boneyards) and no travelling surfer gets a look in. Unfair I hear you cry...but no"

what counted as a travelling surfer?
Not from J'Bay? As in didn't live in the town?
Or Sth Africa?
Or?

Btw i don't mind this approach.

Its been about a decade since I surfed J Bay, certainly wasn't any blocking going on, however on the big day it was very hard to snag one, lots of frothing crew. Only one guy tried Boneyards, and only got a few, that was Baker. The only "localised" spot in the area the locals told me about was further down the coast.
Back to WA, heard all the crowd stories of up north over the last year or so. Apparently they had to close the gate at Quobba .. maxed out with 350 crew. The SW has been a mixed bag, some days busier than usual and some not too bad.

san Guine,
that's pretty much how things operate at my local. right hand point break with a similar set up to J Bay.
There's a bunch of regulars who set the line at the main take off spot and never paddle past each other. If a wide one comes in and the guy furthest inside isn't in the right spot, others can have a crack at it. Anyone paddling past the guy at the head of the line gets burnt. Simple and effective.
I torched some clown the other day who paddled past everyone and thought the next set wave was his. One of the boys reckoned it was one of the best drop ins all year. He said that I "timed my long drawn out bottom turn to perfection and the bloke is an absolute dick who behaves like a pork chop in Victoria and Indo".
Ahh good times.

** I dish out about one of these a year because most crew have worked out how things operate. Some people just need to be put in their place. If you let crew take liberties it just becomes an absolute free for all shit fight and that's no good for anyone.

Sometimes fading a greedy prick into the pit is more than warranted . In fact, as a local it's almost an obligation when some out of town clown starts to cock his leg and piss all over the joint.
I still can't believe the amount of arrogant turkeys that either jump off the rocks and head straight for pole position before they even get their hair wet, or paddle out in a rip that leads directly to the inside take off spot and then expect everyone to be cool with it.

So you agree totally with tube shooter, but if I faded some greedy prick into the pit, you want to see me getting served. And you'd even pay someone $50 to punch me in the face.
You've got problems champ.

love is in the air...

love is in the air...

"blowin has put a bounty on me"

Thanks for the chuckle Vic.

To be fair, having known VicLocal for a long time, I gotta say he is very civilised in the surf.

Disturbing to witness this online falling-out between 2 great mates - suggest a 'time out' for you 2 to reflect on how you can restore your affection for one another.

Fuck I love this forum

definitely believe in a healthy amount of localism. always loved surfing with the bodyboarders at all of the newcastle reefs when i was living up that way, they held it down and were tough fellas. but everything was orderly, no chaos and everyone got their turn if they were patient and respectfu. sometimes one or two alpha males prevents 30 alpha males trying to be top dog. not a lidda myself but i generally prefer to surf with them when its a bit bigger/heavier.
however, not too sure that its been quieter down in vicco since lockdown, ive been finding that its busier as heaps of people (like myself) are now 'working from home'. additionally it seems everyone from melbourne is shacked up in their expensive beach houses until this thing blows over

Good food for thought, FR.

Everyone I know who is a decent surfer appreciates the order that comes with a fair local crew, particularly when the waves are good and froth levels are high. Whether the local crew are fair or not is often a matter of interpretation, but the most universal rules seem to be taking it in turns and taking your place in the hierarchy roughly according to your ability - ie if you're blowing take offs, you shouldn't be looking for set waves up the top/on the peak. In my experience, even recently in crowded cranking waves interstate, if you're competent and polite and show that you understand the system, the local crew are fine and you get set waves. Just get in line and don't waste it.

The thing I lament most about the accelerated changes wrought by covid is the concept of getting your stripes which someone mentioned earlier. Back in the day, especially if you were learning as a grom, you had to make your way up the greasy pole of the local pecking order. You started out in the shorey, got your act together and gradually made your way out the back. You were out there with your mates on the onshore days and the good days, and you were schooled in etiquette by the older surfers. If you were lucky enough to be in the water at a crowded name break, you sure as hell didn't have your old man pushing you into set waves. Some places had reputations for aggro, so you avoided that place until you could hold your own in the water. It's a shame that concept seems to have been deemed optional in the collective consciousness of the new entrants.

These days, we have the Vulnerable Adult Learner brigade all taking up surfing as it's permitted under lockdown. They have no idea and think the coast is for everyone so they may as well have a crack. And good luck to them, but I wish they had half an idea how dangerous and annoying they are. I think if we all gave them a bit of friendly advice commensurate with their ability they might get the message. Of course, that's not easy when they just paddled into your line or landed on top of you. Many new surfers seem to be from metro areas as well, or have a job where they're in charge, and perhaps this has a big impact on their expectations, which doesn't help.

Vic , Winki is a good wave , but it aint no JBay , not even close

One thing I have noticed that seems to be creeping into the lineup. Mainly nonlocals who are lacking skill, wave judgment, and fitness but also some long-time local surfers who may be a little lacking in skill and fitness. Is when they paddle up the inside for the next set wave, everyone gives them the benefit of the doubt, they either fuck the take-off or miss the wave, then think they have the first option on the next wave of the set because they missed the last one. Finally, someone gets jack of it and drops in on them and they crack the shits for getting dropped in on. I think the best line of attack is to mention to this person that if they paddle up the inside one more time and fuck it up, the next time I'm just going to go and drop in on you. They soon pull their head in and stop.

Another SW article on localism, and not a single mention of Aboriginal people. Again.

You are pissing in the wind writing about localism, while living in Australia, an omitting to mention the hypocrisy and racist underpinnings of localism on [-O-] stolen land.

It's 2021, it is not a free ride.

Great travel stories chaps. I'm surpremely jealous. J-Bay has always been a bucket list wave for me and I'd love to visit SA in general.

Actually, Winki has been a bucket list wave too.

WTH JackStance???
Wrong thread pal!

Just before the 10k radius shrank to 5, and locked me out of the surf, I was out at my local. Crowded, as always, I took off on a left and some guy dropped in. Nothing new, right? I called him off. Nothing. He held his line. I fell back to my 70s call-off and yelled, Fcuk off. He cutback and shoulder barged me off my board. After finishing up, he paddled up to me, all bulging veins and walnut face muscles, threatening to, you know, punch my head in and blah blah blah. Brave local man kills 60-year-old midget, would read the headline.

Effective localism relies on a gang mentality which is based on cowardice. His intimidation worked because I know that there are a bunch more super aggro dolts ready to pile in, no questions asked. So, even if I was an MMA cage fighter, the numbers'd still be against me.

Of course this is rhetorical - I'm not an idiot - but why isn't longevity a relevant metric? I've been surfing longer than that prick has been alive. I respect the line-up. Mostly because it's the right thing to do, but other times out of fear. Actually, the point to which I respect the fcuking line-up is detrimental to my wave count! Seriously, the number of people who pull back when the waves get bigger has increased exponentially.

I find little joy anymore in this thing I've wrestled with for nearly 50 years. I'm not sure that localism is the biggest problem; I think it might dead etiquette, or deadiquette, as I'll now call it.

In my little beachside abode , the main beach has been packed, the last few weeks the worst i remember it. Short Stroll through some bush and dunes to another spot and not a sole out. Scored it to myself for 3 hrs pumping over the weekend. Kept looking back to the track thinking hope no other (insert word of your choice) comes out....thinking what would i do if they paddle out and start taking the inside....probably nothing but I had bad thoughts.
A lot more people seem to be either taking up surfing and spending time at the beach in general, which is funny, its always been there, why take a "pandemic" to see what's out there.
Just stay on the shit side!

Yea , J Bay , early 90s , At 3 foot it was packed but at 6-8 a lot harder to get out . Surfed it big with Curren , Brock Little , Hardman all the Rip Curl crew were in town staying at Derek Hynds castle up near the point
To this day still the best surfing i've seen was Curren swinging late and dropping into a solid 8 foot bomb out there . I was scratching to get over this thing and he's swung late, stands up under the pitching lip and makes it with ease !

Meanwhile in NZ, they cannot go surfing. Super low population, same coast line length as the US. They are not happy!

I think this lockdown situation (Vic) has brought out the best in people and the worst in people. Surfing since 1970, I can remember fierce localism from older type enforcers to the younger crew (who just copied the old pricks). IMO the lockdown has let the localism card be played with a false sense of righteousness. Some of the old pricks and their disciples are still around.
No one has any more rights than anyone else to the water. Really it has just let the dickheads be dickheads, and it seems our sport is full of them.

The one that gets me is some Aussie's you bump into in some spots in Indo who think there locals or own the place.

Sad human beings

Back in the 70s, you only had to have surfboards and QLD plates and drive into the Yamba pub carpark and you would regularly have some local threatening you. Country soul.

Hey Wally, since the state-wide lockdown, that region has been like the 70s all over again, especially over the river at that breakwall wedge where the locals even tell the Yamba crew to go back to where they came from!

Over 20 years ago I was taught to glass, sand and gloss polish by a man who had spent time in Hawaii. He also tried to convey the spirit of Aloha and the influence of the Duke, which I understood to be a sharing, and kindness, and looking out for others in the surf. Here I read the Hawaiian royalty had their own breaks, with threat of death to commoners on surfing them. Not sure how that fits into Aloha, but it seems we're not the first to have problems of people blowing in to breaks and localism.

I was wondering how it would be when I paddled out for the first time down Torquay way the Saturday after the last long Melbourne lock down ended. The first guy I spoke to was a local and as friendly as. Lesson: you be nice and respectful to all, all will be nice and respectful to you.

There is no localism on beach breaks on my stretch - northern beaches. Sheer weight of numbers has made the concept irrelevant. It’s mainly everyone for themselves and the covid crowds have been awful but on the odd occasion You get a groove on in a gap somewhere

Not sorry to see localism fade away as it always saddened me and I don’t believe it created any virtuous order - it was just better the coz syd was a city of 2m rather than 5m people - I suspect the same is true in most places - localism seemed to me to serve a small entitled few only and physical intimidation was too often it’s ugly handmaiden (not caring for place, picking up rubbish, environmental stewardship from what I have seen)

My personal solution is to make the most of it when I can. Try not to take it or myself too seriously and get my neice to teach me to skate small ramps in local skate parks - it’s a new and exciting complement. I get to know my neice better and throw her a few well deserved dollars + I’m kinda proud of myself as an old bloke picking up something new... plus, hope for sone respite in surf crowds whe vaccines hit 70/80%

I hear sone skaters saying the parks are ridiculously busy - but I don’t know any better so it’s water off a ducks back to me

Reading the article and through everyone's comments I thought fark this is all very depressing and then came blowin's and Viclocal's lil spar and the world was good again. Great work guys and all that talk made me want to surf Winki again, but it sounds very crowded these days, bummer.

Jesus Christ this thread is full on reading (didn't read bugger all but I get the gist).

COVID has been good for surfing a) if you are a board or wetsuit manufacturer for example b) love surfing with loads of new mates and c) you are blissfully unaware of such things like localism and partaking in surfing etiquette.

COVID has been real bad for surfing if a) you need a new board or wetsuit b) hate surfing with new faces at every beach especially your once quiet local and c)you like to see the same faces at your local and if it is a new face they stick to the rules/etiquette.

The later paragraph problems along with surfcams at beaches that don't warrant them or are not welcomed by locals are only fueling the fire with these issues. With Instawank, Faceshit and the new "V(f)logg" sensations surfing has lost most of it's meaning and most surfers these days are more worried about a dumb "Like" then actually going surfing for the pure enjoyment of it and Covid has brought more and more of these types out into all line ups, juiced up on adrenaline from their last selfie, or checking in or simply telling 6 of their mates where they're surfing and that they should join them.....

Seems these days nothing is sacred when pursuing waves and what blows me out is how many of the older generation also love to get a "Like".

One thing I notice (and have for years) is the change in surf check ritual. There are very few crew who can look at the waves without their phone. This instant broadcast and 'group chat culture' must contribute to crowds more than anything IMHO.

yeah see that all the time dicks turn up pull out the phone and tell the world......look around the car park and there are a few doing the same trick ....while adjusting the man bun.......

Ok, so I love to lurk and smirk but, I'm rarely, if ever, moved to write. But, something about this topic just wiggled its way under my fingernails and has me agreeing wholeheartedly with Ringmaster...yeah nah. Crowds on the surfcoast have been building for years but, the last 18months has been a wall to wall shit show. Any break, any time of day. But, honestly I think Steve has been hanging out with Chas and Derek a little too much and lure of pulling the pin and tossing the hand grenade into the lineup (so to speak)was too much to pass up. Judging by the comments section here, I'd say well played Mr Shearer, well played.

Anyone want to start a GoFundMe page? The Cooly boys can't cope and are feeling unloved without a 1000 surfers out the bay-
https://www.mygc.com.au/watch-coolangatta-locals-launch-their-own-advert...

Being a local in Sydney just means you have a few million to spend on property. Makes more sense in smaller towns though, if you commit to that lifestyle then it makes sense that you want to protect the benefits of it.

yep chicks are the worst

This comment system is neanderthal

Hey Inzider,
That video you posted is hilarious. I checked out some of the other ones made by Raglan Surf Report and got plenty of laughs: great satire of localism and other aspects of modern surf culture.

Is that Piha?

Got some great waves there and the locals were cool. Everywhere we went we got good waves and the locals were sweet as bro.

Enzed- great place.

Yeah Raglan surf report vids are great!

There’s a key piece missing here.

People who own property and hence pay exorbitant council rates should probably get first dibs. After all it’s their money that maintains the surrounding infrastructure..

Transients and renters stand in behind these locals in the “pecking order”

Just a thought.

So it’s an article than was bound to boil down to the definition of a local.

A) born local and multi generational
B) lives within of couple of kilometres from the break
C) owns their home in the area usually close to parents
D) rarely surfs other breaks

So is this a true definition?

Well of course not. There’s too many traits and permutations.

The worst is the “blow in local” doesn’t fulfil any/much of the above criteria but, acts like a super local and comes down harder on other blow ins to ingratiate themselves. A bit like immigrants who hammer new arrivals to a country in a desperate attempt to penetrate the clique.

Should all 'non-locals' then be required to stand in the car park and make a statement, an 'acknowledgement of locals' before entering the water?

It’s worth checking out more of these videos: hilarious pisstakes on surfers’ attitudes

I reckon there's a difference between a regular and a local. Lots of breaks have regulars, but often a lot of them aren't locals.

I grew up in a small place where all the locals knew each other. In this part of the world we have a lot of regulars in the water who come from a radius of about 30km to surf the name breaks all through the year. And a lot of travellers/ day trippers - it's common to be in the water with a few you know and 15-20 you would bet the house you've never laid eyes on.

The more time you spend, the more you get to know who the regulars are - many people surf the same time of day cos that's their window, and if you spread your times around you'll get a good idea who is a regular.

You'll see the locals in the shops, down the street, picking up the kids from sport. But you won't see all the regulars around town much. And that doesn't mean they don't appreciate the way the local breaks work.

In my experience only a few locals would like to keep things for themselves, and very few regulars think that way. Most have travelled a bit. The common ground is that 95% of them all appreciate order in the lineup, a bit of etiquette so they get their fair share, and a bit of bullshit out the back.

I had to re read the article to gain some clarity following such a popular and polarising response to this thread.

It seems that the term ‘local’ is viewed fairly negatively by many who don’t live where they like to surf.

In comparison to yesteryear, modern surfers impose a fairly ‘soft’ decree and in my experience seems to be more prevalent with higher than normal crowds or inappropriate behaviour. The worst any poorly behaving interloper is likely to receive in modern Australia is a bit of stink eye, a few words and likely a reduced wave count (unless you’re a 7 time world champ visiting Australia’s best point break during lockdown - which is a despicable and abhorrent example of localism, maybe for another time).

The other variable that hasn’t been mentioned is ‘wave access’. At spots where access is unchallenging even for the most novice of paddlers, there is unfortunately going to be a significant mismatch in ability in the water. This becomes a real issue when the waves reach a certain size or quality - not only because the blow in or novice has not earned their stripes but that of safety.

I live and surf in a region when the waves reach a certain level the crowds drop due to the challenge of getting out. One of the benefits of living in a B grade region for waves.

Back to my initial point, localism comes in many different flavours. I think of people like Heath Joske (fight for bight) and Hayley Talbot / Dan Ross (Clarence River). Every beach has these positive role models.

Most people I know at some point had to make a significant life sacrifice and take a punt be (or remain) near the ocean. From here they’ve also worked hard to integrate into their local community. People are proud of their local and its understandable that at times behaviours spill over into something that is designed to maintain some form of order and respect.

Final note I wholeheartedly acknowledge there is that small percentage of total fuckwit. I see no place for serious aggression / and or violence.

Interesting points and probably paints a good picture when combined with Tangos synopsis.

Maybe localism is a perception rather than a reality nowadays. Seems to be amorphous in 2021. And herein is the problem for “locals”.

I agree with pretty much everything you say solitude, but not living next to your 'local' is also a significant sacrifice people make in the hope things might align down the track

I'd just like to gage the public mode. Is a sneaky surf beyond the 5km limit better or worse than Nadia Bartel getting on the nose beers with mates and sharing the same snorting note?

" The increasing dependence on the State is anything but a healthy symptom ; it means that the whole nation is in a fair way to becoming a herd of sheep,constantly relying on a shepherd to drive them into good pastures. The shepherds staff soon becomes a rod of iron and the shepherds turn into wolves "

- Carl Jung

Welcome to Australia

Then there was Neil Yung’s timeless aphorism - “Look out mama, there’s a white boat coming up the river”.

I read somewhere that the more you’re stressed the less empathy you have for others, this could not be any truer for crowded line-ups. Snaking, drop-ins and outright abuse only gets worse as the waves are shared by greater numbers and your good vibes give way to selfishness and the urge to give kooks a verballing. The old punk band Surf Punks were writing tongue-in-cheek lyrics about this stuff 40yrs ago. Classics like ‘My Wave’ and ‘My Beach’ are funny but also kind of embarrassing when you realise as a surfer you’ve behaved like that more than once.

In my opinion its about keeping people safe, travelling to go surfing and possibly endangering other Australians is really selfish!I live in a small town with great waves(approx 130 residents).When we were in lockdown we may have had 4000 crew coming into town and maybe 2000 surfers on the day of swell,my neighbour counted 100 cars in twenty minutes on the road in.I went down and had a shout at these crew and posted footage of the crazy amount of people(just ended up copping a stack of hate and even got called a blow in?)Im not pissed about people coming (I have city people coming to stay every single week)For me its not about localism its about selfish entitled cockheads doing the wrong thing.This is why if you go to small surf towns and people are are not as friendly as they once were this is the reason(surfers and non surfers)