From Eden to Agnes Waters, the East Coast of Oz has been enjoying a gluttonous run of swell. No sooner does one swell wane than the next is sending the wave buoys north.
This gallery was shot one swell and two days ago, from a morning that'll shortly become a blur among the many other memories of May 2021.
Photos and captions by Chris Peel.
"First light here is always a nervous time on a new swell. Sure, you know it's going to be big, and you can even see 'em spitting, but sunlight reveals just how good the day is going to be."
"We were looking at the charts for a few days and knew it had a lot of potential. I had plans to shoot water the whole morning, then we heard about this trawler that had washed ashore and I had a quick change of heart. I spent the morning shooting from land in case it was smelling of fish too much."
"Steven Sleep finds one of the first of the morning."
"Unknown running towards the sun. Too good not to shoot."
"Josh Dowthwaite is a regular here - his wave count would be as high as anyone's."
"Luke Killpatrick had a rough start to the morning but quickly found his momentum."
"Josh Dowthwaite again - wave number 9 by 7am."
"Steven Sleep on a mid-tide drainer. And yeah, he made it."
"I finally decided to jump in and grab some watershots. Got stuck in a rip and had water jammed into every part of my body, but Joel Scott made it worth my while."
"A clean hook up, but I don't know who the surfer is."
"In the afternoon I jumped in at Kirra to limber up for a big week to come. Another clean hook up, another lucky unidentified surfer."
Comments
Go pros are ugly
Ski and the surfer chewing on them like dog toys
The waves look heroic in isolation however I am wondering if the paddle outs were just as heroic? Those beachies can give you a good working over and massive rips/sweeps.
Agreed, NB. As are skis.
I can't get my head around these mouth-grip cameras and the need to see your own shots or footage of a surf with a wide-angle. Do these guys think that if there's no footage it didn't happen or something? I've got an Apple Watch and even the novelty of seeing how far/fast you went starts to wear off after a while.
I gave away my mouth mount having not ever used it. It just feels like you will lose teeth!!
Nice waves @ both locals! Looks like sand bottom waves doing there thing in a solid east swell!
When I saw a bloke in the surf with a mouth grip cam I thought it was some sort of respirator!! Awesome surf.
Mouth cam man got some beautiful footage which he put up on his instagram.
The pinny/JS GoPro mouth mount ski step-off psych brigade will never cease to infuriate me, but I can't not watch their goddam clips. FML
The extended Dowthwaite clan is the most beautiful family and beyond reproach for my mind. Can’t argue with the quality of the footage either.
Can you not paddle in ?
Cant believe there are people complaining about surfers wanting to capture and relive their surfing experiences. How exactly does someone using a gopro hurt you? Jeezus.
Oh I know. The bloody things look stupid and I look twice at every surfer who uses one. I'm wondering if I should get my own out of the drawer and try it out. I've taken it three times to the Maldives but have never taken it out of the bag. I know I'll regret it in years to come remembering some of the epic, (in my own mind) waves I had. Next time......next year, hopefully.