Watch: Desert Point July 2019
In the 2017 movie 'The Secrets of Desert Point', one of the tight-lipped Californian pioneers admitted that, though they were the first to surf it, they probably weren't the first to see it. So why hadn't earlier surfers jumped the gunwales and scooped the rewards at Bangko Bangko?
"Thrusters," says the protagonist. They found Deserts a year or so after Simon launched the Thruster and were adamant that prior to that the wave would've been deemed unridable - simply too fast for single fins.
Watching this recent water footage would seem to prove his point, the angle accentuating the blistering down the line speed.
Comments
Hmmm thats funny, I've had several sessions in similar conditions on a 6'6" 6 channel single fin and had the time of my life. Next time I head over I'm going to take the bonzer as well.
How's the burn at 1:49!
Brutal
Yes...but the guys probably been waiting respectfully for 45 minutes while people paddle inside him up the point...he may have just had enough! Ive been out there when you literally can't spin around to catch a wave without bumping into someone.
Maybe all the waves on Bali were still a bit empty at the time, and a bit more user friendly, no need to go further. Perhaps the thruster allowed a higher line on such a steep wave for the average surfer.
Would have thought that a good single would keep up...high line on a 7'2...Hey Stu I would be willing to try if Swellnet will pay for my test sessions (flights, accommodation etc.), I will test a couple of quads as well, I don't mind may need a month or two to really work it out.
bloody hell !!!
can't see that ending with a hug and all good mate.
if you are going over take a twin fin as well
I reckon there were other issues with those old single fins other than not being thrusters. If you've ridden one recently you'll know what I mean. Basically they were awful.
Depends on the tides. Deserts can be slow and you can do reos and backsiders bum drag stall in time tubes . On the contrary it can be fast , (too fast for most backsiders) . Not saying more except there's a lotta moods and it can be different one swell direction to the next...
That was my experience. Although it's 25 years since I've been there so the memory's a bit hazy.
I do distinctly remember two things though: 1/ having a wave race out in front of me one time down at the grower. I opened my eyes underwater to see the reef flying past my face about six inches away. 2/ Walking round the point for the first time to see the wave peeling towards me in all it's mechanical glory.
I don't think I'll ever go back though. I hear it's a bit crowded out there these days.
would still prefer footage taken from beach following the wave
tinman 72 insta..eddie predator having a dig.
Very solid!! :o
Dylan Longbottom calling Eddie Predators wave the biggest heaviest ever surfed at Desert Pt..