Watch: Kepa and Natxo // Finding the Barrel
Shortly after their ill-fated Indian adventure, Kepa Acero and Natxo Gonzales decided it was time to pull the plug and head somewhere more dependable. They beelined it to Indonesia. It took them a couple of days to commandeer a fishing boat and zero in on a spot, and once again they found themselves staring at a wave they really didn’t want to ride. Remote, heavy and shallow, Kepa and Natxo decided to paddle out against their better judgment.
"Being quite far and super dry reefs, it didn't feel safe actually," says Kepa. "We were wearing our wetsuits and hoods, and we were missing our helmets."
“I’ve heard stories of guys surfing this spot wearing motorcycle leathers because the reef just tears you up. Neither of us felt comfortable out there.”
Comments
No Palm
How was that last wave! Good on the boys making a living from what they love.
Follow the dream Blowin otherwise you will end up being the neg that you are
Appreciate the call about following the dream . It is essential that you allow your dreams to flourish and to review them and check that you’ve got something wild in your heart .
But....fuck “ The boys “ making a living doing what they’re doing. They’re making a pittance and they’re salting the Earth behind them as they go.
It’s cool they inspire people but they’re fucking others over in the process....including themselves. No good Karma in that. Be a decent person. Get a skill , make things , heal people , create shit , make people think , but do it without detriment. Do something great and make coin from it . Just do a job and help your community....pack shelves , drive a taxi . Then travel and enjoy yourself by living in the moment and not tainting it with sponsors obligations and fucking around trying to get “ The shot “.
These guys are losers . It’s only the shallow media circus who feeds on their content that’d have you think otherwise.
As for me being a neg ...too right . But it’s not cause of any fun surf I’ve ever had ,it’s cause of the dumb fucks who can’t see the forest for the trees and kill the goose who lays the golden eggs.....of every walk of life.
Thegrowingtrend.com can rimmyarse.com.
Sounds reasonable.
I was watching it and thinking what an amazing wave, why the fuck did they make this clip of it. Not saying it, or anything, is a secret, but lets watch the clip again in 20 years.
FFS boys.
Just go surfing without dragging your camera around. Softly spoken nice guys when they’re blowing out the world’s surf spots . Go to Mundaka and share a line up with them to find out the extent of their desire to share the world’s waves.
Just more sell out salesmen. Get a job .
Come on its not exactly a secret spot and a single boat has been chartering this area for over 10 years. If it was going to blow up it would have happened a long time ago.
Also sounds like someone is jealous of their ability to make a living from non-competitive surfing. Good on them I say and I'd rather be doing what they are than sitting in my office.
No jealousy. Just a simple contempt for people who’d trade that which is extremely valuable to a surfer - uncrowded quality waves - for a few dollars that they could’ve earned on a building site in a few weeks.
It’s a slap in the face to every surfer who does the right thing by separating commerce from the thing we love doing. And they do it for fuck all. They could have ridden these waves uncrowded for years - along with the other low key crew already doing so - but they would rather share the line up with many people in future rather than fund the exact same trips by just labouring for a month.
How can you possibly respect a person like that ?
Spot in the vid has fallen off the radar again. That’s why they went there to blow it up and use its glory to get a few insta likes.
Get a job you Basque fuckwits.
In surfing , there’s no one more worthy of respect than someone who doesn’t sell out the very thing they love . Give me one Camel surfing alone on a shoe string purely for the love over a million of these wannabe failed pro clowns who’ll flog the surfer’s commonwealth of waves to further their own flimsy careers.
And if you want to explore for perfect waves just save some money and do it. It’s not rocket science , it’s not magic and it’s not impossible. It just takes a bit of application, a bit of motivation and a bit of sacrifice.
Geez mate I love surfing too but stop trying to make out like its some mystical pursuit. Its just a sport.
Dont make me name the region but for numerous reasons this vid isnt going to change anything in terms of how crowded this place is and there are no locals who might be pissed off. So your claim that these guys could have surfed it uncrowded for year is way off the mark.
Most people who have the ability to surf it would already know it exists. It will never become Bali or the Ments. Pretty sure a new vid comes out every 1-2 years of the right hander just around the corner.
I'll support a rant when it is due but I think you are just having a jealous whinge right now.
I think your thoughts of jealousy are misplaced. I turned down a trip there last year . I could go this afternoon if I was inclined.
Surfing good uncrowded waves IS a mystical pursuit. It’s an entirely different activity to surfing in a crowd. Surfing a city break with dozens of others is sport . Surfing a remote wave by yourself or with a couple of others is life affirming. Maybe you’ve never done it ?
I’m not talking about getting a head start on the rest of the boys whilst they sleep in on boat in the Ments , I’m talking about going on an adventure, finding good waves and surfing them uncrowded.
Maybe the area in the vid isn’t exactly like that , but it’s been relatively forgotten as spots sometimes get and these guys have form blowing shit up.
Yeah ok mate who doesn't like an uncrowded break nothing special there. I could also book a trip here today if I wanted a "life affirming experience" but like most other people I haven't for various reasons.
What I am saying is that your comments are off the mark because no matter how many vids supposedly blow this place up it will always be an 'adventure'. The mission to get there combined seriousness of the waves means there will never be 10 charters in the region regardless of how many supposed sellouts post vids of their trip.
These guys are blowing up spots that people have been quietly surfing, long before they got there, with the only reward being the action of doing it alone.
Uncrowded breaks are getting more special every year. If you don't think so, tell us the last spot you had a surf alone?
Where does one book a spot to go and surf an uncrowded wave? These days I don't surf unless there are less than 3 people out. Uncrowded boat trip has never made sense to me knowing that there can be up to a dozen fuck wits on the boat with you
Whadaya do if it's pumping and there's already 3 people out???
....and then ya go round the corner and it's pumping and there's 5 people out?
Do you just go home and watch 'Sunrise' or something?
I sit and wait and respect them for knowing the wave and wanting the solitude that I want.
It's a big world out there with many corners.
I've seen many places destroyed by wankers and their insta clips.
I can still name a dozen waves in the ments that the boats never go to as it's not economically viable or they are new discoveries.
Crowds are not for me so I live my life accordingly.
Noone likes to see people make up stories just for fame and a bit of extra cash, our culture shouldn't be supporting it
Excellent response! Goodonya and may you surf in relative solitude for many years to come.
Fuck! It's all a bit hypocritical fella's isn't it?. I totally agree on the hush....hush on surf spots and all, I try my best to implement this rule in my own backyard but... Let me get this straight. Some of you guys are arguing that, if you work hard, live in a foreign country like say, Australia or some other westernized wealthy country and can then afford to pay some pretty serious cash to buy/purchase a boat trip to go surfing, then your unconditionally 'entilted' to then 'Utilise' someone else's local knowledge to get to a mystery spot, purely based on the fact that you have cash to get there and this is all then consider legitimate?? My thoughts are, unless your getting there under your own steam and amazing foresight, it's all is a bit of a cliche.
Maybe, we're all best not to share anything with anyone, ever......every man and woman for themselves?
Not what we mean at all, it's about keeping quiet places that way, not thinking we own a place by paying to surf it.
I have never been on an organised surf tour in my life...
How do you know that?
I was there the week before these guys rocked up, during the crazy big swell with the boat going over at Nias (23rd-28th July 2018). Some mates stayed out there for this swell and apparently they rocked up and pulled out all their camera gear and everyone just went mental at them and made them fuck off after a couple of surfs. that's why there is hardly any footage in that clip. I would have done the same if I was there.
Couldnt have said it better myself blowin. Some guys just dont get it. Wannabe rockstars but just adding to the stream of narcissistic shit. Its no secret spot anymore but why add a few dozen guys next season and ruin those semi uncrowded days for the people that make an effort to get there and enjoy it for what it is. We are running out of places to get away from these gopro heros and enjoy what used to be commonplace, lets try and keep it that way
Do you guys not see the irony in the fact that you are blasting the guys who made the vid without even mentioning the website that posted it and blew it up even more?
If anything you should be directing your vitriol at Swellnet because they have certainly increased the number of views by thousands.
Also the irony of whinging about surf spots being blown up on a surf promotion website is also not lost on me. Think about how many spots are now more crowded thanks to Swellnet. Or does that not fit your "these guys are sellouts man, surfing is a spiritual experience not a business" narrative?
Where else we gonna complain about it...
Also, you still haven't given up your spot? Where's it at?
Haha ask Blowin. Apparently this vid has ruined his ability to have a life immersive experience there.
No mate.
I know that I’m not going to stop the Swellnet owners from pushing their business, but I will gladly use the forum they provide to foster and promote the existing culture that views this mercantile approach to be against our best interests as people chasing a few quiet waves.
Get it ?
And it’s in your interest to be sympathetic to this culture unless you want the shit fight of Snapper normalised at every break on the face of the Earth.
Why not help ? You’ve got a lot more to gain than you have to lose.
Yeah I get it. The theme of selfishness is what is consistent in your comments.
You sound like the old people who oppose every development regardless of how good it is. "I live here now so no-one else is allowed to live here". Your version is "I like surfing so no-one else is allowed to surf as they might impact on MY experience". You didn't like sharing your toys as a kid?
So your logic means we should stop groms from learning to surf because they might add to the crowd and impact on your surfing experience? Is that what you want me to help with? Be realistic mate.
I have nothing against you for having your opinions but practice what you preach and cancel your Swellnet subscription if you are serious.
Seems to me as though the majority of comments are in support of our argument. So based on that, you're the selfish one.
Also, share ya spot. Or are you a hypocrite?
People are always going to learn how to surf, it's more about stopping the old boomer attitude of monetising and exploiting limited resources (selfish?)
I have no problem sharing waves with fellow surfers but when the cameras come out they are asked to put them away. Politely at first...
Not even remotely close to what I think.
Surfing is the best gift. Really , it’s a gift that should be organic. Teach a friend or a loved one .
But as we.already know , the surf breaks we all share are susceptible to being overwhelmed through sheer weight of numbers. Those few precious jewels that remain undestroyed by crowds and commercial activities should remain so in order to be enjoyed in the short time that they have left.
I’m not a Luddite who refuses to acknowledge the essential changes that everything experiences, but I’m also smart enough to know that change doesn’t require hurrying up because the good things are a long time gone when they’re over.
Hey , I’m being diplomatic. If you aren’t cluey enough to understand why quiet surf spots should be preserved as long as possible then I’ll give you some advice ......cause you need it.
Go get yourself some uncrowded waves and imagine how you’d feel if next time you went there it was a packed to the rafters with people. Then you’ll know what’s what.
Easy.
Hey dont worry we're on the same page that uncrowded waves are great and glad to hear you are for encouraging the next gen to surf.
This has gotten a little out of hand but I'm just a realist who likes to call out overstatements or hypocrisy when they are put in a public forum.
The points I was trying to make was that these guys aren't that bad for this vid given that its certainly no secret spot and its remoteness/seriousness will always deter large numbers of surfers (who the hell wants to wear a wettie in the tropics and you need big balls to tackle the right hander).
Secondly I dont think that a paid subscription surf camera website is a legitimate forum for a whinge about increasing surf crowds / commercialisation of the industry. By paying your subscription and watching the cams you are part of the problem that you are complaining about.
Gotta keep the sponsors happy
The worst bit is that in future years these two will be beatified by the surf media as modern day heroes when they’re just a pair of selfy stick wielding wankers who would exchange the value of a rare uncrowded quality wave for a few thousand dollars ,a couple of boards and a wetsuit.
These guys would have you think they’re modern day Neil Armstrong’s .
More like privateers for the Dutch East India company.
Stick your camera in your Basque holes.
Would love to go there. Not for that wave (out of my league - at least at size), but for the whole experience and hopefully some rights. The place looks dreamy.
Could probably never fill a boat with like-minded mates who'd be keen.
No need to fill a whole boat yourself - there is a spare spot going right now in the forums
Thanks, Ted
Will keep an eye out. Risky proposition to go on a small boat with strangers, but might be worth the punt.
Its definitely safer these days than when the guns used to come out.
Haha, yes, you'd hope so.
I meant risky as in you could end up with a boatful of loud pissheads with nasty attitudes.
I'm so used to travelling solo or with my wife, and like our friend above I mostly surf with less than 3 people.
"and once again they found themselves staring at a wave they really didn’t want to ride"
I felt this way during prolonged east coast flat spell too
It's all relative isn't it ha ha
Yeah, nah.
WOW! that's some commited backside wave riding right there.......no wonder really why it's not crowded but yeh, you can keep that, not even kinda interested. Sick shot though, thanks.
whats wrong with that,probably needs a bit less water.......chortle.......wheres mason ho when ya need him.
Those Indo fishing boats have upgraded rubber duck tenders now
That tender comes from 1 of the 3 $500 a day charters parked just out of sight. They must've went to the Chopper Ried school of story telling," never let the truth get in the way of a good story".
It's not a lie if you believe it...
Wondering if Kepa Acero is turning into the very person he thought he'd never be when he first set out with a surfboard under his arm?
That's a sad thought, but you may well be on to something, ryder :-/
I went there in 2012 and, yeah, we got great waves but one of the main highlights for all of us on board was the fact we only saw 3 other surfers in the whole time we were there. There's something special about going to sleep next to a pumping surf spot knowing that when you wake up the next day it'll just be you there.
All these little clips that get dropped on the net one by one will make that experience harder and harder to find as time goes on.
Spent a week there shoulder season in 2004, sleeping on our board bags on the roof of a rickety fishing boat, eating an ever-dwindling supply of live-aboard chickens and rice.
Didn't see another surfer there our entire trip and it never got big enough for this wave or by association the other famous right-out. But some fun waves at other spots. I remember one day in particular when it was flat, clear skies, not a drop of wind and so hot I thought I was going to turn into some nicely steamed Bok Choi. 12 hours spent hiding from the sun, drinking water, and diving into 30 degree water to 'cool off'.
Plenty of other spots I'd go to now before this place, but an adventure I'll never forget.
That sounds bloody awful
Blowin u r spot on with everything u said !!!
Smorto eat a bag of dicks !
@ blowin, Geez with so many dreams in your first post you yourself have just about sold it out!!!
I thought life was supposed to be better in board shorts, indo in a steamer, yeah...... nah.
Sprout's comment . . . "yeah,nah" below the image of that end section fecking cracked me up . This thread has been highly emotive .
BLOWIN , I'm with you dude all the way ! Fark , lets face it , the young en;s are just ever ready to use the piss easy tech to get a "profile" in the surf industry . Yeah boys . . .dream on ! ! !
However , if you think about it , they aren't unique . This shit has been happening for a long time , countless jems are now mainstream fare .
Fuck these wannabe explorer surfers. Just use click bait to get their videos watched. Nothing exciting about that clip at all!
yeah i didnt need to see that really, they should have kept that one to themselves
Two sides to this argument. I can't make up my mind where I stand on it. Reckon I'll sit this one out.