Watch: The day you will never forget
Here's a vid with a pretty simple premise: two surfers filmed over just one day.
Basic, eh? Even sounds a bit boring.
Now sit back, press play, and wonder at the accrued barrel time. If time expands in the barrel, and who's gonna argue with Professor Shaun Tomson, then I'm counting twelve hours of tube view.
At the end of the day, baked by sun, dulled by fatigue, dozed by beer, what moments did each of them lock onto? Where did the mind's eye go? There's just too many highlights for any one wave to stand out.
Comments
Insane.
Hardly. Majority were 2 sec cover ups, couple of 4s, a 5 and 7.
Allan Watts the mind surfer.
Epic.
On a side note - I’ve been doing a little study of the” two hand drag “ stalling technique popularised by modern pro surfers.
Results being : 90 percent of attempts by amateurs see only one hand actually touching the wave , the other is merely pointing at the wave , which in tighter barrels is working against the surfers aim of pointing towards the exit of the barrel. So unless you’re doing it correctly it’s a big thumbs up for surfing trend style points but a thumbs down for functionality.
I like the sound of this scientific study. Where can I find your peer-reviewed paper?
You know it’s so weird , although the study was undertaken with the strictest adherence to scientific procedural best practice ( spbp ) it turns out the quantifying data was recorded onto the back of an old shopping list that was inadvertently used to start a camp fire.
You know what they say about us egg headed boffins - “ Smart enough to calculate the volume of a jam jar but not smart enough to get the lid off .”
Mr Blowin esq, that is a crack up!
Lucky Lucky bastards...........
Betcha they slept well that night.
How dare they gloat like that!
Tasty.
If that was Simeulue you'd need to relax with a cup of 'tea' not beer afterwards
exactly, mind you it unknown and undiscovered
Unfortunately it's getting more popular by the year and yes its only saving grace is the no alcohol which keeps alot of surfers away. In saying that i'll be back next season for another round of waves and tea.
WOW! There was a super long one in there and he was so far up the board, trying to straighten out the rocker for speed perhaps?
Wish I was there
Surfed there a few times in July - this is a small day. Serious wave with an evil inside section if you get greedy.....
No simulacrum; this is a divine gig.