Chumbo a-go-go - photos
Today's Wave Of The Day, showing Lucas 'Chumbo' Chianca traversing the peak at Nazare, was shot by Tim Bonython during last week's Euro XXL swell. Amid conversation about how, or indeed if, the bar will get raised at Nazare, came suggestions about how surfers can draw better lines at the hulking, misshapen lump of water.
One method is to delay the bottom turn as long as possible before starting the run to the channel. This approach has two benefits, the first being the surfer will be at the base of the wave when it begins to pitch providing a fantastic top-to-bottom Big Wave Awards photo op, and the second benefit is that it keeps the surfer tight to the curl, maybe even gives 'em a chance to sit under it.
The downside, as Andrew Cotton showed us, is a trip to the hospital with a busted back if you time it wrong.
The other method is shown here by Chumbo. Forget the fade and stall malarky, just come from deep on the other side of the peak and run the X-axis till it pitches.
Chumbo does just that with the last shot showing him under what could be a perfect Nazare pergola, though it doesn't turn out that way.
Watch the first wave in this vid for footage of it.