A small fish in a big pond

The last time Swellnet spoke to Justen 'Jughead' Allport he'd resurrected an ultra short 'Wiz Fish' that his shaper, Gary 'Wiz' Loveridge, first made for him 25 years ago. It's a fantastic small wave board, and, as the following short story reveals, not a bad all rounder either.

                                                                                                               *****

Last Friday I got back from a two week family trip to Bali. The waves were forecast to be small so I took just two boards and my 5'4 Wiz Fish was one of 'em.

The last few days in Bali I couldn't help but notice there was a swell heading for Sydney so once the plane touched down I started getting amped for some waves up home. But then thought, "What am I doing? I'm two hours from home and half an hour from Cape Solander!" So I called up Richie Vas and he told me the swell was on the rise and the Cape would be worth checking.

We left Bali at 10pm and we'd had no sleep so we put it to a family vote.

"Kids, I know it's been a long night but who wants to go to 'Ours?!"

Only Milli didn't want to go, so the vote was 4-1 as my wife was keen. She doesn't usually surf but she got a few at Legian, rode the Flow Rider at Surf 'n Turf Nusa Dua, and she also braved the cave at high tide Ulu and got a few out there too!

So Ours it was.

Problem was, I only took two boards and one was my favourite short board and there was no way I was gonna sacrifice that. The only other option was my 5'4" fish which just happened to be my saving grace in Bali when the waves were flat. Charli, my eldest, told me to ride her 5'1" but I don't think I could've paddled that. She explained how cool it would be if she got a shot of me on her phone riding her pink and purple 5'1" Wizstix at Ours.

Perth Standlick and Evan Faulkes were the only ones out and Perth towed into a screamer. It had a double section barrel and he pulled in from way behind, nice and deep so we only saw his nose on the exit in the channel. I was frothing at this stage.

The surf wasn't great by any means, but I reckon these are the days when you get ya best ones - hence Perth's mental wave!

After a few nervous runs back and forth from the jump off spot, I was in the lineup and dodging the sets. I got a small one first up to test out the wide nose and tail. It felt good. My only problem was going to be wiping off speed. The second wave was a late drop with a little step and I found myself digging the outside rail up to the nose and cartwheeling toward the cliff. Meanwhile, Evan had a couple of full on drainers and used his many years experience out there to draw perfect lines and get spat to the channel.

"The second wave was a late drop..."

"...with a little step..."

"...and I found myself digging the outside rail up to the nose." (Photos Mitchell Tysoe)

After letting many sets slide under me I took a pretty wide south one and softly nursed the 5'4" off the bottom. After delaying the bottom turn a fraction I knew the board would slingshot into the pocket as soon as I put the foot down.

A big spit got me in the back and I kicked out.

"After delaying the bottom turn a fraction I knew the board would slingshot into the pocket as soon as I put the foot down." (Photo Joshua Reading)

Enter the master. Koby comes out, picks the eyes out of it, rides three or four from the back boils, deep behind 'em all the way to the channel. For someone who's been getting around with two broken bones in his back for two years you would never know it. Never hear him complain about it, just turn up to watch his mates, then paddle out and get some nugs.

I love learning from these boys. Caleb McLean paddled out and nabbed a few round holes too! I got caught up chatting and forgot to get a few for a while, or the tide was doing something weird - not sure. Not long after I got out and got the kids home. Then I had another surf at a slab near home and finally got some sleep.

I never dreamed I'd be riding the 5'4" Wiz Fish at Ours at any size, but especially not when it's solid. What went unreal in one foot surf day before - waves that were so small I wouldn't normally surf them - easily handled a solid east swell at one of the heaviest waves on the planet. It's gonna be a good board to throw in the cover on any surf trip, as a small wave board for full on grovel and a back up for any size condition.

Stoked!

// JUSTEN 'JUGHEAD' ALLPORT

Comments

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Friday, 17 Mar 2017 at 8:25am

Oh, you want video too?

thermalben's picture
thermalben's picture
thermalben Friday, 17 Mar 2017 at 9:07am

"The surf wasn't great by any means". 

Jug's got his bar set pretty high these days!

davetherave's picture
davetherave's picture
davetherave Friday, 17 Mar 2017 at 9:10am

You and that crew are legends. Had a beer with the maroubra boys up here for kirra teams. Good blokes. Go the bunnies. But the cowboys are the champs. Where is story about kirra teams?