Psychedelic Sand - video
How big did the waves get for the recent Jaws comp? 20 foot? 25 foot, maybe?
Well, after that swell soiled itself in Hawaii it kept travelling southeast across the Pacific Ocean, crossing the equator its wavelength stretched out yet further while its size slowly diminished before arriving on the South American continent just head-high but incredibly well groomed. It'd travelled the better part of 12,000 kilometres.
There to meet it was Jonathon Gubbins at a sand bottom point break we've seen him surf before. Gubbins is a bit of a throwback in his barrel technique, fella likes to shuffle up the board in a Lopez-like manner, his front foot closer to the nose then the mid-point. In a world of generic surf style, this little element is something to savour. Watching him weave while forward weighting his board is a fantastic synthesis of old and new.
Comments
Would be nice to see a completed ride in the edit. Kinda frustrating to watch.
I actually find his technique ends up being counter productive...too far forward and loses momentum.
That wave looks fun though...but like zen said...how does it end? Editing suggests it just finishes as a locked in closeout.
Crowds!!. Packed out .
Kind of a weird style, i reckon he actually pumps too much.
But at the end of the day he's the one getting sick little tubes and I'm the one nitpicking his style on a computer! Geez I'm a wanker!
haha goofy ya keyboard warrior, joking no he does seem to pump a lot but damn that wave looks fun. There are a few waves like that in Peru and its hard to tell which one is which. id be happy to surf that at that size and not bother about anything else in the world.