Revive the 7'5"
I learnt to surf on classic sixties malibus - Scott Dillon, Gordon Woods, Barry Bennett. All in the 9'0" to 9'6" range. In truth, I wasn't all that taken with surfing at the time. My main interests were elsewhere. Living so close to the beach, surfing was just something to do, akin, in those early years, to a pick up game of football in the park. It just wasn't that important. That changed very quickly as boards became shorter, then shorter again and then down to the sub-6 foot range where they stayed until Rolf Aurness blitzed all comers in the World Titles at Johanna, mainly because his longer board was better suited to the conditions.
So board lengths climbed over 7 foot again and stayed there for a while before settling down in the 6 -7 foot range for a decade or two. The point of this potted history is that by my mid-twenties I had learnt to ride boards spread between 5'6" to 9'6". It is important, when thinking about this, to realise that at that time quivers did not exist. Consequently, when boards first dropped below 6 foot, we were surfing them in everything. Similarly, when boards went back over 7 foot, we were surfing them in everything. This is quite different to the experience later surfers might have had with a quiver of various lengths. Surfing a 7 foot plus board in 2 foot waves is very different to breaking one out when it hits 8 foot. Similarly, surfing a 5'6" fish in a shorebreak has very little relationship to surfing the same board in serious conditions.
These days it's hard to imagine a surfboard less suited to Sydney beachbreaks than a 20-year-old 7'5" x 18 3/4 extreme pintail. Had I been asked a year ago about the chances of spending any significant amount of time riding such a board I would have rated them as almost non-existent; almost, only because there was, sitting at the back of our storage area, just such a board.
The artist and his muse (the cripple and his crutch?), blindboy caresses the 7'5"
I had ordered it for a trip to Fiji in the, as it turned out, vain hope of getting some substantial waves. The shaper, Chris Goulding of G Styles, was scathing when I returned without even having surfed it. My only defence was that the waves never seemed to justify it. Over the years it had a number of outings, at least a few times in waves that justified its length. Yet, sadly in the end, it was under used and, as the years went on and I became less inclined to chase waves of the size it was designed for, it was taken out less and less. So, by the start of this year, I simply couldn't remember the last time I had ridden it. Then circumstances changed...
What began as slight discomfort in my left hip suddenly escalated into something much more serious. My entire left leg was weak and at night my hip ached so much I needed serious pain killers to sleep. I knew the diagnosis before it was given. Arthritis. The only surprise was that the images suggested the right hip was just as bad as the left. The specialist was blunt in his assessment that hip replacements were inevitable at some point.
The effect on my surfing was traumatic. For several weeks I just didn't bother. I had been riding boards between 6'0" and 6'6" and knew that I simply would not be able to get up quickly enough on them. There was also the risk of some sudden movement triggering further deterioration. For most of that time the discomfort was such that rest seemed the most logical approach. The pain and weakness subsided slowly and as strength returned, I built up my activity.
I had always thought that at some point I would let surfing go, that I would retire gracefully before my declining ability became too obvious. But if now was the time, I wasn't ready to do it. Thus the 7'5". I can't say I was optimistic. I imagined a malibu level of performance: take off, gently pull into a trim line and, yawn, hope that you can build enough straight line speed to make the section. Cutback? Forget it! Snap? Out of the question! Well not in anything less than the 10 foot-plus swells it had been designed for. Such were my feelings when I paddled it out in a 3 - 4 foot Sydney beachbreak.
The first observation was familiarity. From wave one, it felt right. That was what set me thinking about the early experiences I described above. Somewhere deep in my muscle memory I knew how to ride a board of that length in small waves. I knew the lines to take, I knew where to aim that finely tapered nose.
The second observation was that it was one of those special boards. The kind that seem to effortlessly follow your intentions. I already knew that about its big wave performance but had never considered that it might hold just as true in more moderate conditions. The third observation was its unexpected speed and manoeuvrability. I surfed it consistently over a couple of months and, of course, there were times when it absolutely did not suit the conditions, but by way of compensation, once it was overhead, it was just a joy to ride. Even in small conditions it could throw the occasional surprise, picking up enough speed to be thrown into a serious manoeuvre.
Meanwhile, my hip just kept improving. Walking, riding the exercise bike, and light resistance training all seemed to help. And as it improved I slowly moved back on to my usual boards. Today, yeah, it's still there, but barely noticeable. So I take the specialist's opinion as just that - an opinion. Perhaps I will need hip replacements, but I don't believe it is inevitable. If things keep improving I will be doing star jumps in a couple of months! And the 7'5"? It's currently in the shop getting a make over. It will always be part of my quiver.// blindboy
Comments
When they do the head replacement, make sure the new head has a brain in it.
That's a first. You made me laugh.
And what make over might the 7'5 be getting.....plugged for Quad ?
Good question Udo, I thought the board was in immaculate condition ?
I like you best when you're writing about surfing.
Good luck with the hip(s).
Can't ever imagine myself not surfing as you described you'd considered though.
Interesting thoughts BB.
I always find it curious how some shapers, surf shop employees, industry peeps etc tend to forget how some designs always work. Lately it's the shorter than 6'0 but lots of width and thickness trend, in the 90's it was the potato chip/heavy rocker trend and then design always goes another direction; sometimes with the lessons left in the dust.
I've always felt comfortable on a 6'4" or 6'5" in terms of rail length, foot placement etc yet I always have someone trying to convince me the benefits of going down to a 5'8" or 5'10" of similar volume. There are always comments of "How can you even turn a 6'4"..." or "That's a gun or a step up".
Assuming the surfer is not an air specialist, anything can be surfed well in most conditions. I even remember Vetea "Poto" David surfing a 7'7" in 2 or 3 foot Narrabeen in a comp in the late 80's and smashing it all over the place.
Just a pro ding repair and refinish udo. I can't imagine changing the fin set up.
Giving up is a pure ego thing Blowin' I have to admit that. There are plenty who have gone that route before me. It's still an option.
I was going to say this in my first comment before I started reading down through the reposts .
It is an ego thing , and the day you let go of that and decide that just having a crack anyway is more important .
Maybe it's easier for myself as I'm not one to do the typical East coast NSW surfer thing and spend too much time mentally working out and defending where I sit in the local pecking order .
And then some days when you have a bad day u just try to tell yourself that it was just good to be in the water on such a good day !
Good luck with your internal struggle moving forward .
Nice story BB. Thanks for sharing.
Just curious. Do you attribute your hip deterioration directly to surfing consistently over many years or a combo of things, including age? Cheers.
Made me laugh when I typed it BB! Still laughing as I know you wont spend the coin on the one with a brain.
Channel I am with you. Riding my 6 2s and 6 3s all the time at the moment. Can throw far more spray ( as BB has noticed ) on the longer rail line. And at 2.85kgs they are at least as light as the small round fat buggers which are fun, but don't make up for holding the board on rail for a long period.
Rabbits, the specialist said no particular cause. That said I think I could have lived a healthier life, less alcohol, better diet, less stress etc. but on the other hand I am still out there most days on boards between 6'0 and 6'6" and pretty happy with my surfing in most conditions. The seven five is there if I need it but the last few weeks my hips feel fine so I just take it day by day.
What are the dims on the 7,5 BB?
So disco, I priced the reconditioned model but they wouldn't give me a trade in. Where did you get yours?
I didn't need the full face reconstruction with the head replacement and brain. I just needed the barnacles knocked off. But you could try Dopey and Dipshiyit's. Anything will be an improvement for you.
Will I get a discount if I mention your name, being a regular customer?
That's interesting stuff BB. Great your still surfing on a regular basis. Might also be a case of move it or lose it.
Good on you mate. I remember a couple of years back, must have been 2014, there was a big easterly that lit up the whole coast, sunny to Sydney and beyond. Some cyclone that probably destroyed Fiji while we took perverse pleasure in its energy (I forget the event but there were so many great pics on here). Anyway, I missed the peak but got back to a little bar break where I was living for the last day of it. It was 3-4 foot long period walls in perfect offshores. I was having one of those days when you're stoked to be in the water with waves coming to you over and over. I'm kind of just reminiscing here but I couldn't help but notice a fella, a little older than me maybe in his 50s-60s, on a beautiful looking Al Byrne, must have been 7+ feet. He was gliding along arcing these graceful turns, really cruising but still putting it on rail. It was cool to see. I asked him about it cos it stood out for its beauty, and he was stoked to use it out there. Anyway just a story I remembered from such a fun surf.
Well done getting back on your short boards. I paddled out on Sunday on mine for the first time in over a year after being on a log in small waves while recovering from a knee injury. It's gonna hang around for years if not forever, but I've been training heaps and getting things working again so it was bloody satisfying to get back out there. Surfed like a total kook but came in smiling!
The glide in a longer refined board is something the younger guys should try on a bigger day. If your short of cash there are lots of second hand treasures out there cheap. Leave the Jet skis at home and get a gun. The peace and quiet while waiting your turn, the fellowship in the lineup chatting about the waves and your gun, then the paddle in, is a beautiful thing.
Great article. The lines of longer rail lengths in the water are a joy to behold.
I can understand the considering of giving up, when one is faced by an injury. Let's hope the physical feedback > than the specialist's recommendation.
Wish you all the best in health, recovery, fitness & happiness.
Totally agree with BB - Just received a new MC 6'9" for a replacement 6'10" Reverse V - it has that beautiful glide in and power lines. Doesn't help to have a little more length for crowd control at Bells / Winki as well :)) Has dramaticly changed my surfing on the 6'0" - for the better.
I second all the comments about guns in small waves. In tiny waves a special gun that has drive and can be worked off the back foot is fun,...BUT, on a clean section of even a medium sized wave a carving, momentum cutback or, if you're able, a vertical reentry on a 7 footer feels as good as anything you can do on a short board (and you are getting more waves). So many variants in the line up these days are about retro or volume or wave catching or dealing with poor waves...but they don't always perform. I wonder why makers don't explore the potential of the 6'6" - 8' stretched out performance short board specifically for smaller conditions. This story is about a design doing unexpected things. What's the potential if a shaper deliberately worked maximising the benefits of a bigger board in smaller waves?. More waves, more speed, more momentum and glide into heavier hacks. Also so many young guys miss out by surfing bigger waves on little boards with predictable results. I can never forget an 8' Rusty that got stolen after only one muck around surf in 3 foot waves. Guns look pretty too...
BB had a mate badgering me to try his Simon Anderson 7' DSC at small ( really small ) Kuta Reef this year. I said no, then no and then WTF yes, there was only us and 3 other young blokes out. I had a ball, it was perfect for weaving, spearing through the little bowl sections and I even banged off one reo on an unsuspecting shoulder, all in all it was an unexpected pleasure. Had me smiling all the way in on the boat, while he was pissed at me not giving it back.
Here one for your quiver - 7'4 x 19 x 2 3/8 Pat Rawson pintail - gumtree Newcastle
Seller will take $150 for it.
Great article as always BB and yeah the ego of not being as good as you were even if like me you were never any good, gnaws at you. I am now doing looks of surfing based exercise and stretches so I can keep the body going as long as possible. Yeah I remember really enjoying a 6'9" Queensland gun on a variety of waves back in the late 70's single fin and all. Went really well but had to surf it from the back. The biggest board I have now is a 6'2" gun as I am only 60 kilos and just over 5'6" tall so 7' would be an ocean liner for me. Surfs well in large average waves and even 3 foot. As you all say more rail in the water. The other longer board I have is a 5'11" which is ultra smooth and both are go to boards in Indonesia when it is over 3 foot. Must try them again soon back here but having way too much fun on the 5'6" twinnie (trying the guitar pick in the back) as it is exciting in the beachies I surf.
You spelt it wrong, fong.
Your question at the end should be 'Is that Gary'?
If that was you I spotted yesterday, then the answer would be 'yes'
HAhahahhaha
Cept Gary was flogging to his own reflection is my guess.
Hi Fong, not sure why you interjected; however anyone who opens the door for Gary should be encouraged, always cracks me up…added cream from Hako was especially welcome!
Put the chair at the right angle and you can simultaneously see both the inside reflection and Fong across the road.
It's a favourite pastime of Gary's that he likes to call 'going through the looking glass'