Behind The Shot: Eddie Wearne
Eddie Wearne is the chief of Shed Nine surf shop in Rye, he's also the fella in today's Wave Of The Day shot - a solid barrel at an infrequent wave near his home. Take a good look at it, it's a faultless gem, and as expected ol' Eddie had a bit to say about it:
"The funny thing was, I'd had six or seven beers since lunch time at our Shed Nine Easter Sunday sale, egg hunt, barby....and then come out for the full long mission, bush bashing, last minute, on my own.
In 25 years of riding waves out here, I don't think I've posted a photo of me surfing this spot. We always tried to hide it, protect it, and play it down. She's a fickle beast, but a secret no longer - the cat's outta the bag. Bit of a circus nowadays, rarely worth the crowds.
Truth is, I had given up on a surf that night: too much happening at work, too many people out, piles of bills, and a daughter to feed. Besides, Indo is coming up with my wife and lil daughter next month and I have been clocking up the hours instore saving and shaping my quiver for that.
I've been working on my paddling and breathing this summer, surfing and sprint paddling in boardies, mostly Rye or Gunna reforms on dusk or dawn, before or after work. Only a couple of sessions out here. This evening, I was sitting up in the fort shivering in boardies with a Pure Blonde and a Bali dart, alone, calming the excitement, ready to paddle out. All the pros from Bells were tripping I was in shorts cause it's getting colder now but I have fully acclimatised.
After this wave, I copped a couple of wide ones on the head then popped up right beside Kelly Slater. We ended up paddling really hard together, he smiled at me like he saw mine, then I cheered him into a wide lil pig dog drainer through the inside. It's all a little surreal and dream like now."
But the fun wasn't done for Eddie. The next morning he paddled out the same wave and had an equally eventful session...though for an entirely different reason:
"The last time I got sucked out the heads was in the nineties, I promised myself I'd never let it happen again. This morning I paddled out alone in the dark at dawn as my wingman decided to sit it out and watch from the beach.
An hour and a half later there I was, still surfing alone, exhausted and chasing that one last perfect wave. I was paddling like a madman against a current I realised I could no longer beat. A tide growing stronger by the minute and then boom!....there I was, out in the ocean being sucked by the rip.
Roger Byrne was watching from the cliffs, he freaked and started heading around the coast, looking for a spot to come and help me. There were some solid grey lumps pounding into the dry reefs and rocks inside. I got in a lot quicker than last time when I was a grom and it was dark, but it still rattled me a little....ha ha ha."
Comments
Yes sheddie
Not exactly bush bashing required to get there, it's paved road all the way, but sick pit anyway
Nice.
Boardies in Vicco ?
Fuck that.
Swellnet - exposing local breaks since 2005.
How's this gem of a comment: "I don't think I've posted a photo of me surfing this spot. We've always tried to hide it, protect it, and play it down...but a secret no longer - the cat's outta the bag".
Well it's thanks to 'local's' (the term is used lightly) like Eddie that the secret is "outta the bag". Believe it or not, the lineup is fairly civil and (mostly) deserted during many medium-sized swells. This scenario changes only when the v. large low pressure systems bypass the state - especially when the comp is on - but this is bound to change once photos like this creep onto the web.
I don't mind paying a little more to support the local surf industry - especially during the dead Vicco winter months - but I can guarantee you that Shed Nine will no longer receive a cent of my hard-earned dollars.
Spot on Harry. Well done everyone.
just another plug for a company, no interesting content in this article. could of posted the photo without any words then we can admire the wave without the directions
Some of you guys are a laugh. Secret?? Fuck me, Tracks ran a multi page spread in 1983 where they named it (Corsair then) and gave directions to the nth degree. Every mag has done something similar, and every single surfer in Victoria knows where it is and what conditions it works on. I'd say Eddie is spot on when he says the cat is out of the bag. The cat jumped out twenty years ago fellas!
Kneepete Tracks did a story even earlier - mid 70s I think..or then theres Spot of the Week on Tumblr.
Edit : may have been in Breakaway mag ?
Maybe Udo. I know that when Tracks ran a story none of us were angry because it wasnt a secret.
In tracks 30 or 40 years ago? Good memories. Similar photos seem to appear same time each year, surprise. Most would know it from the photo alone. No need to offer anything else, apart from some discretion.
Was wondering how long this chatter was going to take to start
It's a dead horse , stop flogging it .
Oh well, maybe getting sucked out the heads is a bit of preemptive karma. Not a nice place to be out there with all the eddies and weird currents, and plenty of Noah's. As a 14 y/o in about 92, my teenage mate and I 'borrowed ' his dad's tinny to get out there with boards, bong and fat blue healer (leaving about an inch freeboard) then managed to fuck the outboard up on the return journey! Ah the memories!
Talk about blowing his own trumpet! and as far as having a burnout running around on the cliffs what a fucken joke. This photo is an awesome shot but the shameless self promotion that followed is most of the reason many people boycott the retail surf industry in favor of online and low key shapers who surf and shape for personal pride.
Pretty bang on there Tarzan
Rip curls rubber soul video had some awesome footage back in the day. Good practice for indo. Good to see an underground local in a nice tunnel, well done. Mick pierce is the legend there, would be good to do a story on him or even Wayne lynch. If your not having fun don't come ha ha.
"Underground" and "Local" are very loose terms in your context ganteng
baha rias rock horse hair no secret just gotta pick the days
kneepete commented Thursday, 31 Mar 2016 at 9:07pm
"Some of you guys are a laugh. Secret?? Fuck me, Tracks ran a multi page spread in 1983 where they named it (Corsair then) and gave directions to the nth degree. Every mag has done something similar, and every single surfer in Victoria knows where it is and what conditions it works on. I'd say Eddie is spot on when he says the cat is out of the bag. The cat jumped out twenty years ago fellas!"
I used to surf the place a fair bit 70's/80's and a few times in the 90's so I know the place well. When I seen the pic a few days ago all I thought was nice wave wonder where? So just a pic without the detailed wank would be better , might not be a secret but it can go off the radar, out of sight out of mind.
Yes talk about blowing your own trumpet, truly a man with his head stuck firmly up his own arse.
Whatever your thoughts on how well known the spot is, you gotta admire the man's commitment to making his rig the star of the show.
Paddle out in boardies when the WSL circus is in town just across the heads, pick the moment to bag yourself a drainer, then make sure all those pros and the Swellnet community get to see the cut of your rig, perfectly accentuated by the shade of a boss barrel. Eddie's Rig Would Go.
You've earned yourself the Gary G 'Chest Bump Salute', Eddie.
The place was chockablock 80 plus surfers over Easter and can be lullish, tricky to pick and short window given the current. 2 surfers every wave, very competitive crowd and I said gidday to Mick Fanning (thought I would name drop as Fast Eddie has) who by the way was a gentleman in the water. The cat has eaten the bag and most of the crowd comes from the west coast in boats and jet skis. We of the east are technically not allowed to surf it from land and I was questioned by the Rangers in the car park when I got back. Still a great wave and Fast Eddies is a beaut.
Technically not allowed to surf it from land.....please explain ?
It is a national park and as it is a potentially dangerous place to swim and surf they can stop you going on the beach. In the bad old days they used to confiscate boards and even earlier it was an army base. You have to dodge the Rangers however they have seemed to eased up fining in the lag 10 years. Bullshit really as no one pays attention to it and should be surf at own risk. You wouldn't want Asian tourists on the beach there though would make Bondi look like a lake.
They claim it's coz there's unexploded ordnance (shells etc). Not coz it's a dangerous place to swim. They're not saying don't go in the water, just dont walk on the beach.
That was the old line. The one the Range told me was the destruction of the natural environment.....it is all concrete at that end as I explained to her and there was no damage. All the damage is being done through the widening of the heads. The erosion down there is getting out of control. The old concrete army box is completely undermined whereas 10 years ago it had plenty of sand and cement in front of it.
There's two things they can ping you for.
1. Riding past the 'No bikes past this point.' sign atop the fort pierce hill.
2. Jumping the fence down the end of the point.
The fine for 1. is quite heavy. I don't know of anyone getting done for jumping fence because I don't think your really gonna look back if the Rangers asking to come back some fine you haha
I am contemplating setting up a petition to allow people to surf their from our side. Everybody is doing it anyway. As long as the Parks put up heaps of signs that if you die it is your fault, I can't see the problem. Not sure about duty of care, and the legalities of it all however if someone knows would be most appreciative if they can enlighten me.
Our side? I'm Blairgowrie. Not Pt. Lonsdale :)
Me too Blairgowrie
I've never had access to a boat but have often contemplated either:
1. drifting with the tide from somewhere accessible by car (I've done the Portsea swim from near the pier to the Quarantine Station and that current is strong), or
2. tow the board behind a kayak (also needs to be with the tide), or
3. walk from the carpark (bugger of a walk back tho)
I was put off from #3 by the "don't go onto the beach" signs.
And I never got around to trying the first 2.
Do I pursue the curiosity of a fellow Blairgowrian or do I stay with comfort of anonymous?
Do I pursue the curiosity of a fellow Blairgowrian or do I stay with comfort of anonymous?
Do I pursue the curiosity of a fellow Blairgowrian or do I stay with comfort of anonymous?
No problem can get in contact through swellnet.
Really ?!? .
Up to about 15-20 years ago , you used to be able to squeeze a car between the bollards and drive 90 % of the way down and then hide it up in one of the paths off to the side before the narrow section . Just had to have a car small enough , but also big enough to hide a surfboard in . I also I heard rumours of guys hiding boards out there and riding a bike in .
Always been a boat man myself , and have a setup specific for it . It's been a while though , as it's now rare to get a quiet one due to Jetski's making it easier to get there in any weather . Good boat training for the NW and other sketchy boat access only spots throughout Aust.
About two summers ago this was the norm. Once the Rangers had clocked off at 5 it was fair game as to getting in. The toilet block on the hill overlooking wave became a car park. Pretty funny to see
Fergus Mcdingo , do National park rangers really have the power to do that ?
Kelly slater in port phillip baywatch riding tidal waves with Eddie. Pipedream. That waves behind his surfshop in Rye.
Is this the same Eddie who whilst in Bali a few years ago travelled to far West Bali for some celebrations for his pre nuptials and surfed in a superman costume with a horned motorbike helmet???????? Cracked me up as well as the local crew,so funny.
Affirmative.
And a video too... (skip to 4:15)
Yep that's him, hahahahaha, one of the most fun,silliest sessions I've had. Local crew laughed all day,Euros didn't know what to make of it.
Is this a jealousy thing? Are people really thinking this will bring more people along?
Or is it a matter of the individual being disliked for one reason or another and people taking the opportunity to kick him?
Totally jealous of the fella in the Lycra bodysuit surfing crowded Vicco in boardies then selling it out for a couple of walk ins at his marginally profitable retail outlet.
Bit nasty, eh?
Also, the notion of selling it out or the above article making it more crowded doesn't withstand an ounce of intellectual application.
Yeah, fully nasty.
I hearby apologise
He seems like a fun enough kind of guy too.
PS if any kids are reading this , please never spell hereby with an A.
Alcohol is bad Hmmmkay.
Whoa a second there !
Alcohol bad ?
That's just the beer talking.
Beer = Good.
Poor spelling = Bad.
Don't drink and write , unless you want to wind up a rich , famous ,respected , admired and plagiarised author like 90 percent of the worlds great writers.*
* Statements of fact may be altered to suit the preferred version of history as suits the commenters opinions.
Blowin unless this Edward character is an absolute dickhead in the surf or in business I cannot see why people would have a crack at him. The spot is hardly a secret is it?
Mick Pierce even puts shots up on his insty.
No one blinks an eye.
Mick can do pretty much whatever the fuck he wants down here.
If you were a peninsula surfing legend, you could too.
My point being, that this seems to be offending non locals more than locals.
Hell, you've got a great surf board brand called 'Quarra' down there.
I can't remember the last time i've seen a Frank Sambucco "Quarra" board in the water .
The 80-90's called lostdoggy , they want their era back ......
Lets not paint this coast as a happy welcoming party , where guys like Louie Hynd can come over and drop in multiple times on locals without blow back ..... FFS , atleast the real pro's were courteous .
We are talking about a dangerous wave , the coast itself ( mainly strong beachies ) isn't for everyone , this place is multiplied 10 factor . If it isn't the many boating calamities from the currents , there's still guys like Homer ( being one of the most experienced guys ) getting smashed by the wave itself . Its got a ceiling to its capacity ( number of surfers ) , just 'cause it been near that ceiling for a very long time doesn't mean it open slather .
Lately ( last 10-15 years ) guys have been pushing their luck surfing outside of times that its historically been tackled . And gone now are the cheeky sessions that used to go down with under a dozen .
Eddies ' laying out the " fun " welcome mat . Am i wrong in saying that he sent the Photo in himself ?
Was it sponsored $$$ ?
haha, yep, agree with all that.
Those quarra's were good boards but. Do you know if he still does custom's or anything? I've still got a great gun of his that I haven't been able to use since moving to NNSW :(
Frank runs a small cafe now and hasn't shaped in years......however the maestro from the south, Bean of Balin is still shaping magic sticks (that was a blatant plug Stu couldn't resist slipping it in). And all this talk of MP, Bean is equally a legend down these parts but couldn't care less about the notoriety and now has dicky knees.
First board was a balin.
Full gorilla grip from nose to tail.
Geez I remember those bit hard on the chest and made the board heaps heavier. I am even older the first I bought was a Trigger Brothers single fin which was rubbish then I saw the light and purchased a Balin however it was pre Bean when John was still shaping. Shit I am old.
Stump for president
So Mick can cos hes a "legend" but Eddie can't share the stoke?
Is it the person, the article or just people are a little envious about the bloke getting WOTD?
I've already said its a sick pit, I'm not envious of him wave of the day at all. You obviously don't know either Mick or Eddie and their completely opposite sized egos, so not much point explaining myself to you
Look sorry I just don't get why it's acceptable for one but not the other regardless of ego or motive.
All good mate, hope you got a few last session out there
Didn't end up going down that way mate. Will pick a moment when theres less people around.
1962. The very first issue of Surfing World. Peter Troy gives directions, tides and a glowing description of the place. It isn't a secret.
I wasn't gonna buy into this, was planning to take the Oscar Wilde route of refusing to have a battle of wits with unarmed men, but fuck, I'm the editor of Swellnet so I've gotta front up.
First up, to GF, I agree that Mick P can do whatever the hell he wants, but I also agree that others can run a photo or tell a story if they use discretion and tact.
Secondly, I approached Eddie to run this content, not the other way around. I heard about how many people were out surfing - as there often is when it breaks - and I saw how many photos were going up on social media - again, as is the case whenever it breaks - so I asked him to run the content. If people can run it on social media - sometimes in real time - then why can't we run it unnamed after the fact?
Thirdly, the place wasn't named, but of course those who live near the wave would know it. They'd know when it breaks - hell, most would've surfed it. So no-one is driving vast distances on the strength of that feature. It wouldn't add any numbers to the head count, same as I don't think Mick P's social media would.
Lastly, the surfing world is full of grumpy old walruses wholly incapable of self-reflection or enjoying themselves. I see them on Swellnet all the time and their incapacity to rationalise is only exceeded by their ability to distribute blame. It's become a life lesson for me; I'm mid-40s and I've surfed all my life, I remember when it was less crowded, but for the life of me I never ever want to be like some of the sad units who pop up on here and bitch about the world while living in the past.
There's a rather grumpy sounding tone emitting from your post, Stu.
It might be too late for you too.
Maybe this song will cheer you up.
Stu I suppose my opinion is coming from knowing the guy in question. Nice enough guy but one of the biggest self promoting, blow your own trumpet guys you will meet. It just gets a bit too much sometimes.
There's bigger things in the world to worry about so that's the last I'm gunna say on it. Cheers
Haven't you heard ?
Mid forties is the new twenties.
Sure feels like it when 60 year olds are hitting the line up with grace everyday .
Party on young' uns.
THIS
is FUCKEN bang on. Ill quit surfing straight up if I ever become like that......
Same here Ringmaster.
But in the meantime -
Get off my lawn you kids !!
Harrumph .
But the problem is,when it happens you have no idea that you have become like that............
Well said :)
Thanks for that LD. I got the motherlode off my chest and now it's time to rock down to Electric Avenue...
But Stu . This isn't NSW .
Many of these grumpy blokes like WL , MC , etc have passed on a staunch attitude to keeping everyone in check ( their self awareness ) that is .
The peninsula was a victim to the suburbs shortly after the torquay region fell into surf lawlessness . Its the weight of numbers , what we don't want is this Cancer spreading .
As there are still many quiet locales elsewhere .
As a recreational surfer i see it as my job to keep things quiet , as someone in the Surf industry ( i'm sure you'll cry that your on the fringe ) will feel the need to make living any which way how .
I understand that fully , and are compassionate for the cause , that we have a sense of nationwide community even if it is in the virtual internet eather . For that i'm very thankful to the likes of yourself Craig and mostly Ben for the courage to take that step .
BUT lets not forget that no one tells people how to make a living , but atleats as a community we should tell how to Surf . ( and i mean the ethos of as opposed to physical ) .
If guys feel it important to self promote on insty or here and there , then I'm not sure i want a part of that . But there's a difference between self flagellation and people selling the scene/ surrounds .
There is a course for discussion without everyone being right or wrong .
In that situation its much more important that people are discussing airing their thoughts .
" I would just like for the people who want to live like California , would take themselves to Californian rather than bringing it here . "
I don't think you have to justify your stance , no less than you have to listen to mine .
I always appreciate the opportunity to create polite discourse Southey, however if I invite someone to appear on Swellnet then I have a duty to defend them from anonymous sniping. I think most right-minded people can see the basis of the early comments, but nevertheless...
I'm lost .
Can you indulge us on the process of how these articles find their way here .
I know you have published other articles with Eddy ( BTW i don't know him to comment on him ) , does it go along the lines of you chatting about the MP and whats been happening . Or are we talking about you coming accross the photo on Social media and tracking him down for comment ?
I'm not a hypocrite either , there was a wave of the day on Coastalwatch a few years back that had me the only person surfing in it , ( admittably , my surfing wasn't the star of the photo more so the wave behind ) .
But straight away i contacted the photographer to ask the deal , and in no uncertain terms shared my disapointment on the location being shot . And for myself and one mate giving the shot perspective .
Anyway , i'm interested in the avenues that provide the impetus for you to do such stories ( ie : which avenue is most likely to get your attention [ pls don't say Electric ] )
Truthfully? Is it that hard to follow?
We saw his post on FB, the photos was shit hot, the story enriched it, so contacted him. We've never done anything else with Eddie so I'm not sure where you got that idea from. I doubt I'd recognise him if I saw him on the street but I'd gladly go introduce myself and say g'day if I did. Seems like a fun fella.
Cool .
So Facebook is your talent pool, . Glad to know .
Somewhere else must have run the footage of Ed in Sumatra on the tidal bore ........
I really thought I'd seen Captain Frothalot in these walls .
( I must say I really dig people making fun of themselves for others amusement ) dressing up just takes it that little bit further and shows commitment .
Which reminds me of that photo footage I have of Morris shredding sperm whale head on a goat boat in a full latex gimp suit . Must post it on my mates FB page along with detailed directions , and how he mistaken dragged out to sea in a local scallop net .
Anyhow , if your out there Ed . Your not hated , perhaps the show was better in person . ?! Nice wave .
Great message , perhaps the wrong audience .
Anyhow , I'm off to Margie's to blockade Gracetown ......
95%of posters are anonymous so most snipes will be just that, People like Eddie just shit me they are so "look at Me"
Go on, call me a "hater" :-)))))
No need, you just admitted to it.
It's a badge I'll proudly wear. It can be pinned next to my kook badge.
You just won't quit will you Stu ?
Fucks sake, I remember the days when even a passing mention of Electric Avenue would see your house burnt down.
Let alone showing videos on the Swellnet.
I can remember a time when I had Electric Ave with not one soul around.
Those were the days.
Yeah it's a shame Eddy Grant went and put it in his Jamaican Surfing Atlas.
I blame Pineapple Express.
They exposed it to the social media generation.
It's either surfers in the area try and enforce a total photo media blackout or accept it as is and move on. As for respect in areas and stopping breaks becoming free for alls its up to the local and regular surfers to lead by example and not drop in or snake. You cannot preach one thing then behave differently to everyone else. I don't expect preferential treatment at the local pub because the guy at the bar waiting has a different postcode.
Don't no why everyone is having a go at Eddie Been in his store a few times and he has good prices, is good to talk to and is a good bloke. He seems like a funny laid back bloke who just loves the ocean. I don't live down the Mornington peninsula and I have seen heaps of photos and heard of the place it's no secret it's on the Internet and on websites so don't no why people were getting angry at that either.
As a father of two, I have watched Eddie run his humble shop, over the past decade.
My kids are obsessed with his frothalot dvds and when I take them to visit him instore, he knows them by name. Last week he greeted them with smiles, free wristbands, and a friendly chat. No Ego. Ive seen shots bombarding social media for years and Id rather see someone like Eddie in the pic than another pro anyway. The guy surfs more boards than anyone Ive seen and is out there most days.
Seems to me a lot of the negative feedback, is coming from non locals, seasoned warriors of the key, sounds like most have not met the bloke I know. Eddie is a man who does so much for the local community and especially the next generation. I know he has been working on this fundraiser for suicide prevention and mental health for months. See you at the party. Ill have my kids there. Keep pushing Frothy. Your a legend.
Spot on. Sheddie's heart is always in the right place. He might not be the uhhhhh most politically correct person sometimes. I wouldn't say he is self promoting more he is a living breathing advertisement to keep Shed Nine running, not for personal gain but as the motto goes 'the store for core' I.e little groms, charitable ideals etc. I actually have lost track as too what people are complaining about through these comments. It's Cirque de Su Soleil out there. Has been for ages. And everybody loves the circus...