Surfer en Méditerranée
A forced move from a wave-rich coastline to the shore of an inland sea. For a surfer from the island continent it seems like a trip to purgatory. Yet Steve Thomas, formerly of Sydney's northern beaches but currently residing in Marseille, managed to find some unexpected gold along the fickle shore of the Mediterranean Sea.
After my better half got a research job offer at Marseille University we moved over in January 2013. For those geographically challenged - and I include myself in that basket - draw a line due south from Paris and you’ll hit a really large body of inland water called the Mediterranean Sea. That became my new playground.
Apprehensive about my wave quota compared to the northern beaches of Sydney, we moved just out of the mad city to one of the coastal villages that are dotted along the coast every five or ten kilometres. As it turned out the village we chose was one of the better swell magnets. This was indeed a bittersweet outcome. The coastline is so bendy and varied with mostly reef floor plans, but its inconsistency is frustrating.
Nevertheless, when the swell does come up, and even a stormy will be quite tidy around one particular corner, it can really turn on. Even a smaller swell can line up nicely if you are OK with modifying your craft. Being a featherweight in the testicular department when the waves get really up, but quite confident in shallower mini-slabs, it wasn’t a bad match.
In terms of surfing with the French, and I can only comment on the region in question, it has been a mixed bag of stereotyped snobbery, arrogance, and poor manners, along with friendly greetings, “Where you from?” and “How’s your French?”. The stereotype is perhaps justified but so is the occasional complete inverted experience. After some frustrating exchanges in the first year, like the optional use of indicators when driving, dodging the relentless doggy land mines on the sidewalks, or smoking over new born babies, I’ve learnt to minimise my behavioral expectations and just focus on the job at hand.
Fortunately, the French around my area do seem to cling to all the usual breaks so it can be quite easy to get a solo session – somewhat unheard of on the northern beaches of Sydney. If you can open yourself up to filling the down time with experiencing the wine, cheese, quaint little streets and markets, and learning the unique language, then one can find peace in this part of the world. You may possibly even become more, dare I say it, cultured.
But, if you are like me, and really don’t give a rats arse about any of these types of things, and are the terminal surfing type who just needs to be in water regularly to stay sane, the Med may indeed take you to the brink of madness. On that note, the family is looking to relocate back to Australia at the end of 2016.
Vive la France!
The same day Swellnet received the above story from Steve Thomas the following clip was posted by French surfer Eric Rebiere. In it, the Mediterranean muscles up and Rebiere - clearly no featherweight in the testicular department - paddles out on a 9'6"
Comments
Makes you kind of think if you thought out of the box there must be a lot of coast out there in the world that sits in areas of small seas that can get shorter period but possibly good uncrowded waves, in particular places that get trade winds that push over a good bit of sea just got to find a little reef, point or beach that faces the right way to clean things up or find a place where winds are offshore for a little bit between strong trades that will create swell…two examples in Oz are Tassies North Coast and areas up North Oz.
The thing is there is not much to do in those areas between swells haha.
How about the Black Sea? I've seen pictures of fun waves on Russian and Georgian coasts. Over Christmas I surfed head high waves over reef in Sweden. The novelty is a real buzz. Living in these places and relying on it, maybe not so much.
I was thinking more tropical oceans like South China Sea etc even some of those smaller sea's that get trade winds running the length of them, in these kind of areas google earth is pretty much useless, just because you don't see waves or set ups doesn't mean they are not there, you would really need to just go and look under the right conditions heaps of wasted time..but if you even found a nice fun waist to shoulder high wave you would pretty much be guaranteed to have it uncrowded with no threat of a surf camp being built or a charter boat turning up…plenty of other things to do and see in these areas.
The waves in the photos look super fun. I'd have fun on these for sure. Very cool.
Great article Steve and some nice looking waves. There are waves out there, you just have to get off your arse and start looking. Really don't understand how people become complacent only surfing their local break, but each to their own.
Indeed Clif. Fun waves...drip fed. I could almost consider living here if the waves were more consistent. But only "almost". Most people love France but usually based on holiday experiences. I love (regular) surfing. Living in France, on the med at least, has been the most challenging experience of my life. Just finished year #3. I nearly lost it completely at the end of year #2. But, it's not like it's Syria...I've gotten a bit better at keeping the perspective relative....
Off to Corsica in March....should be a bit of novelty...
Thanks for the article Steve.
Talking to some Italian surfers from Rome yesterday, they were telling me that there is a wave there similar to lower Trestles in the states.
Seeing as how I haven't been to Rome since I was Seven years old I thought I'd better look into it before I laughed too heartily .
Judging by maps it only looks like a 200-300 km fetch.
Certainly nothing that would produce a performance wave on any kind of consistent basis or with any kind of power.
Let alone some Italian Pipeline they were talking about...
Got any more info and does this seem feasible to you ?
BTW My research and encounter with the Italian surfers answered one age old question definitively -
Why is Italy shaped like a boot ?
Cause you can't fit that much shit in a shoe.
Yes, that is meant to be humorous.
You talking about Verraze, Blowin? Hollow little right?
Sorry, Varazze.
Steve I'm no amazing traveller but if you're going to dismiss the food, history, architecture and language of one of the world's great cultures and put all your happy eggs in one basket (surfing) surely you're putting yourself behind the eight ball?
Oh tell me about it Andy! If I was loaded I'd spend every other night in a shrink's office. The heart wants what the heart wants.....
Having done quite a bit of traveling, France is indeed everything you say but after a few years, and the isolation that has come with it, one yearns for that feeling of social connection....and some regular waves
I know what you mean about the regular waves Steve - I spent about 8 years OS maybe 6 of those in Italy and Mediterranean France. Had a ball but finally coming back to northern NSW with the consistent surf feels really nice!
Shame that Marseilles is just that bit too far from the mountains for regular weekend ski trips that might scratch that carving itch. Did it quite a few times from La Ciotat but it's an effort, especially considering you have a young family.
It sounds like you aren't having particularly positive experiences with the French, is that French in general or mainly the surfers? How are you finding the arab/muslim aspect of the south of France?
We have friends we visit in La Ciotat Andy. France for a week or two is nice (which is 99% of everyone's experience - and what they base their perception of France on). I've found it a challenge and look forwards to getting out....ideally somewhere on that NSW coast like you have. We are living in a small village about half an hour out of Marseille (opposite way from La Ciotat) so is a lot of older folk and bored teens in tracksuits. We don't really see much of the northern African population in our neck of the woods. The French are just "French". The surfers are a mixed bag but when it's busy it's a nightmare but I've found a few spots I can often have to myself....and just leave them to it.....
A fair point there Andy, but honestly, once you've seen a few buildings, felt the history (it is a visceral experience walking into a castle that was first built 1000 years ago), checked out the history and enjoyed the food, there really isn't that much to sustain a soul of any depth. Food, in particular, has become this strange cult that is nothing more than shallow hedonism. All these things will be interesting for a while, and for an average whitefella Aussie, with a heritage that goes back all of 15 minutes, it can be an eye-opener, and everybody should do it just to see what they are missing.
But it isn't surfing.
Surfing is another story. Surfing sustains the body and soul, puts you in touch with your ancestors going back to the first animal that crawled out of the water and clambered up some muddy slope, repeatedly speaks to your heart and being in a way that a building never could. It is immediate, ephemeral and real.
And I mean that sincerely. Many may think it shallow in a way, but it really isn't. Culture is a graveyard.
Steve, you will find waves again. It can be just as frustrating, moreso, when you live by the coast in Australia and have two young children, and the rare spare moments you have are always when it's crap surf, and when it's perfect offshore peeling waves you have to go to a party for a 3 year old! You've got a couple of kids I think you said, you might not have been getting any more surf and living next door to freeride, watching every other bastard get the cream while you are on the beach with junior.
And I'm being serious there too. Boy that was a tough 16 or so years to sustain my love of surfing while getting so little opportunity.
But it's all better now. :-)
Ha! So after surviving the French Mediterranean experience I only got 16 years until Im back in the green (er, blue)? Thanks batfink.....
On a more serious note; great point/support on "surfing is another story". I sometimes exchange glances with a random fisherman standing in freezing Winter water whilst I paddle out. We both look at each other with the same thought; "That man is crazy". One man's delight can be another man's "Yawn".....Thanks for the wise words of experience.
nice article steve! waves look sic! surely it can't be too far to hossegor? europe is pretty small
Thanks t-diddy. Nice of swellnet to publish my ad-hoc ravings. Waves are some of the funnest I've had in my surfing thus far. Consistency is the killer.
About 7-8 hours to Hossegor by car. Done it once or twice. Been there several times in me single days also but somehow all those picture perfect days, like you see in the magazines, have eluded me. Have the family in tow now (#1 arrived our first year here in France, #2 in May) which does restrict the road trip to some extent. Have managed to sneak the occasional solo getaway to Portugal and Morocco for extremely cheap air fares which has been nice. I'll miss Europe when I go......because I don't think I'll be back in a hurry. Not because it is bad.....i'm just "done".
I understand, after roughly 8 years living in the Cannes area,
I was surfing San Remo everytime the Mistral blew, and praying for the once a year south swells that lit up the coast. So much potential but just lacking swell.
The island of Cannes could have some of the funnest waves I have ever surfed, but it is now overrun with French Stand up paddles with no idea of etiquete
Good luck with Corsica, there are some waves there, especially around Calvi, but Sardinia seems to be much better, it recieves the Mistral swell with out the wind.
One cheap option that gets heaps of waves is the north coast of Mallorca and Menorca, I think you can get a ferry from Marseille?
Good luck with the locals, I was also 'done' with them, unfortunately I still have an apartment over there, navigating the local bureaucracy is a nighmare.
Populated by people you can't stand to be around .
Sounds nice .
Not.
When Im kicking back on my deathbed Blowin, I don't think it will make it onto my reflective highlights reel....
Saying that, I've gone through the psychological motions....blind faith, skeptical optimism, reality, pure hate, resilience, and finally; a loose form of acceptance. I'd say I should be able to live anywhere after this experience....
Reality, pure hate, resilience, loose acceptance....
Sweet Jesus, they sound like proper cunts.
Strangely enough, one of my good mates is a Frenchman.
Something I'd never have dreamed of in the past.
We're been united in our general disapproval of the Italian contagion , so it's a qualified truce really.
He was a truly great nemesis until the Romans arrived.
They aren't bad people Blowin. Some of the guy's have been cool. They just like everything French, and that's fine.....
Nice to hear someone who has experienced, and can truly appreciate, the circumstances LKG. Wife was not keen for Mallorca or Sardinia unfortunately but fingers crossed I can get a little wave in Corsica. Ah yes, the French administration. They are indeed a special bunch.....in so many ways....
Steve I'm really surprised you haven't got on with the French since you've been there.
I had the opposite experience during my time there, classic people, warm and often with a great sense of humour.
I am indeed then jealous AndyM. Glad you enjoyed your time.....
Cheers Steve.
Nice story Steve Thomas. But a little research reveals that you're a rather humble fellow with a new lease of life - we should call you 'Steve Thomas-SC'
https://www.itsanhonour.gov.au/honours/honoured/thomas.cfm
Sneaky bugger :)
Good research effort U-turn, humble indeed. I guess one big plus of the Med is the lack of such situations. When paddling out in Barcelona (4 times a year if lucky) and my hand encounters something rough in the water, I never panic like would be expected back home because you know full well it's nothing but a harmless piece of debris- you know rope, sanitary pad, nappy, milk crates, the usual stuff that washes in with Mediterranean swell...
They still lurk though-
http://www.iberianature.com/material/sharks_in_spain.htm
True. Luckily the Mistral (offshore) wind blows all that crap to Italy......amazing water clarity after a day of offshore here....
I've heard of sharks about in Italy...but none here where we are. That is a plus for the France Med....
Nice research u-turn. Wow Steve!
And re my other comment, yes, you will find time to surf, but there will be periods of frustration. It's just that you will come out the other end and gain a sense of freedom and opportunity that is worth the wait.
And the kids are gold. Wouldn't trade a minute, well, except for those kids' birthday parties.
And the random fishermen in freezing water, both of you looking at each other, well he is connecting to the same source as you, just through different means. The only people I trust with knowledge of the ocean are old fishos and surfers. :-)
Those old fishos are as terminally afflicted as the old surfers.......must.....fish/surf.....
Thanks for the insights bfink
One last thing I wish to add, is I loved my experience living in France, but like a love that has faded, you find the things you found so amusing start to grate on you.
The old bloke who stops his car in the middle of an intersection with his hazards lights on and then goes into the shop to buy his paper and lotto ticket holding up everyone going to work, or the old purple haired woman who blatantly pushes infront of you at the supermarket, the shop assistant who ignores you and then pretends to not understand your passable French, small insignificant things that you shouldnt get upset at, but you cant help thinking 'that wouldnt happen at home' it builds up and beacuse of a home sickness, these things take on much greater proportions, in the end I found myself saying I now have to go.
In their defence though, I lived in a town that was overflowing with Aussie, Kiwis English and Sth Africans all working or trying to work on the yachts that frequent that area. The locals are much more tolerant of our behavoiur and a lot of the crews blatant refusal to speak French, than we would be of the same situation over here.
I now look back on my time there with a fondness, the beachside bars, the streets still full of people at 10 at night, the overall safety of the place, but I know I dont want to live there again.
Sounds like you had a good deal with a few expats about LKG. You did hit the nail on the head. Little things start to rattle you for sure after a long enough time......like water on the forehead...drip, drip, drip....
We did move over with #1 in the oven so we kind of got double whammied into the cultural isolation and adjusting to being a family unit. Im sure it would have been more interactive if it was just better half and myself.
"The blatant refusal to learn French"...Ha! I gave up French ages ago. I met one of those types of guys you spoke of in my French class in year #1. He'd been doing the yacht thing (for rich Russian mafia types) out of Marseille for 6 years and still wasn't any closer to speking French.
I have reverse snobbery now. Im mostly respectful (as one should be) but if a Frenchie snobs me for not being able to speak French, I just snob them for not speaking English. Seriously, I drive 4 hours one way and they want Italian, 4 hours the other and it has to be Spanish. You can drive 36 hours in OZ and still be in the same language zone. It's a bit tragic that I've turned into a linguistic ogre but one gets to a point where you have to weigh up where the least stress lies. Ultimately, for me, not continuing to learn French (I did do classes for about 3 months on arrival) was best for my happy place....
A few people I know are baffled why the excellent opportunity is not taken up to learn that "oh, so romantic" language. Alas, it's just hard to explain unless you've been through it - and there doesn't seem to be be many....perhaps for good reason. Any language that pronounces the number 97 as (the English equivalent) "4x20+10+7" needs some serious consideration for practical application....I do enjoy pointing at inanimate objects and asking if it's a boy or a girl however....
Again though, I do stress, I don't hate the Frenchies. It's just not my bag (baby).....West coast may have been a different result.....
Thanks for the comments LKG. Even if it's only typing, it's nice to hear a familiar "voice".....
Those old fishos are as terminally afflicted as the old surfers.......must.....fish/surf.....
Thanks for the insights batfink