The Outsider: White Like Heaven / Black Like Space

Steve Shearer picture
Steve Shearer (freeride76)
Swellnet Dispatch

"Was it white like heaven or black like space?" - The Gowns, White Like Heaven.

"If there is a God I hope he's looking after me." That's what went through Trav 'The Log' Logie's mind as he found nothing but empty space between himself, a thick Teahupoo lip and shallow reef.

But he didn't look after him, at least not on that wave, because Trav got drilled so hard he suffered a separated shoulder. But then maybe he did, in the long run, after a controversial fiasco ensued when Jordy got obliterated on a bomb and wore a solid set on the head.

Jordy came back on the ski grimacing in pain and it was obvious he was seriously injured. In the ensuing chaos water patrol called the tower and called an ambulance, Jordy's eyes were rolling around in his head, a lung injury was suspected. There was no ambulance ready so the Contest Director put the comp on hold. There were cat-calls from the crowd: Trav was charging and the vibe was one of disbelief. Jordy started talking, "Let me surf. Let's keep going."

After the re-start the heat went to Jordy but the crowd smelled a rat and Martin Potter stormed the judging tower and a re-surf was agreed to. There was more punishing wipeouts for The Log but in the end he prevailed in a re-surf with Jordy.

Everyone who excelled today had to endure punishment. The ability to absorb that punishment and come back for more, with all your composure, skills and desire intact made the difference between the winners and losers. The set waves obliterated the best in the world and Owen Wright was one of the few who was able to muster the courage as well as the technique to get his board underfoot on the heaviest waves of the day. Yesterday, on the Day of Days, when a few select men and women stared down the black hole of Armageddon, Owen sat at the end of the channel, dodging detonations of the heaviest water ever negotiated by Homo Sapiens.

Yesterday had differing effects on the competitors; some pretended it wasn't happening, spending time in the media centre watching sports and checking their Facebook pages, others watched in a kind of horrified fascination, the normal human response in other words. Yet Owen seemed to be doing something completely different - he was learning: understanding the complex forces at work and allowing his brain to slowly decode them.

More importantly, he was psychologically desensitising himself to the spectre of immolation present in every death set, allowing himself to slowly become relaxed and able to function under the heaviest axes. From the channel the amount of water drawing into these waves makes their sheer volume something truly awesome.

Flores was the other competitor to use the tunnel vision and subsequent punishment of Round 2 to reset the level of fear he could cope with and still function. Flores was remarkable today. The early afternoon saw a sudden roar to life from a South Pacific swell pulse that had been seeming to slowly ebb away after some leftover monster sets in the morning. Flores, like he has done all event, calmly positioned himself for the bombs and utilising the advantage that backhanders have taking off under the lip by grabbing rail on take-off, slotted two absolute beasts.

Has there ever been a greater Public Relations turnaround in professional sport? From despised petulant Frenchman engaging in public violence and considered a joke by surf fans to a humble master of the thickest caverns the ocean can produce. This is a reversal in fortune for the ages, sports fans.

There were clutch moments aplenty as unlikely candidates stepped up and beat acknowledged Teahupoo specialists. Brett Simpson defeated Parko with a tepid performance that showed a lot of hesitation. In the first five minutes of his Round 3 matchup with Damien Hobgood, Simpo turned his back on a monster and it seemed he would pose no further threat. But something weird happened: Damien threaded a smaller inside wave and with the line-up wide open a set reared on the back ledge. Damien was screaming at him to go and finding himself in the perfect position and with his good friend urging him on Teahupoo gifted him the easiest entry on a set for the day. Simpo slotted it clean and you could see the switch flick in his soul as he suddenly realised, "Hey, I can do this!"

Last night, as a pale yellow sunset infused the Tahitian lagoon with a light that seemed holy in its purity I shared a Hinano with Brett. He'd blocked the day and seemed completely at peace with his fate. If he went out early via the hand of his good friend Damien Hobgood then that was alright with him. But he didn't. He found himself on some kind of wonderful karmic roll where he was actually learning to surf Teahupoo in heats and wave after perfect wave kept coming to him. I mean, would anyone of sound mind bet on Simpo to beat Damien Hobgood then Freddy P. in 6-10 foot barrelling Teahupoo?

Maybe more than anybody in the line-up today, Simpo was able to forget the waves of a lifetime yesterday and take today completely on its merits, as a new entity unrelated to the past. Slater called it "spiritual", the sense that the "ocean speaks to you". It spoke to Brett Simpson today, it whispered sweet poetry in his ear all day long.

We return to Slater's performance this morning in Round 3. The sun came out from behind the mountains and the sound of church bells drifted across the lagoon. Somehow, and almost unbelievably, there were the faintest question marks being raised about the champs prospects in solid Teahupoo barrels against a young, hungry tube specialist. He hadn't done it for years in solid surf...could he still do it? Would he be out-surfed by Ricardo Santos, a wildcard with nothing to lose?

Slater's opening ride was superb, a late drop to hands-free tube that had more than a touch of Andy about it. He threw down a double shaka claim and it was immediately obvious he would pay no attention to the young Brazilian. He was listening, and Teahupoo was speaking to him as it has spoken to no other.

He didn't surf a perfect heat. But it was hard to escape the conclusion that the wave he took off too deep on was a deliberate manoeuvre. Much like Ali trained for his fight against Foreman in Zaire, the famous Rumble in the Jungle by training with noted hard puncher Joe Frazier, allowing him to pound away on his body to condition it to punishment, so too Slater wanted to absorb some punishment, as a psychological hedge against the fear of a much more critical wipeout. As a strategy it was flawless.

Like any great champion operating at the peak of his powers Slater felt the need to indulge in a little showboating. His next pit, one of the most perfect waves of the morning, he rode no-hands, looking back into the tube and putting both palms up in supplication. This wave, this island nation has showered the Slater campaign in mana again and again.

And like last year, his opponents in front of him have fallen, allowing him once again a clear path to what has seemed like destiny from the start. The Slater Era will last while Teahupoo retains it's central significance to the Pro Surfing narrative.

As a sporting event GT nailed it perfectly: "Life doesn't get much better than this."

PS: Just on sunset a reliable source informed me the Jordy Smith camp were furious about the re-surf debacle. Like Joel's Round 2 wave, this episode could be vital when we tally up the crucial events that shaped this years Title Run. It would be ironic in the extreme if Jordy's closest friend and travel partner, who has been struggling on the Qualifying Series, was to be the one who torpedoed his Title Run."

Check all the photos from the third day of competition.

Comments

benski's picture
benski's picture
benski Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 5:09am

Nice write up mate. I watched the Jordy/Logie heat and I thought Logie was well and truly hard done by. From what I recall Jordy only scored his winning wave after the restart in the final 90 seconds of the heat, at which point the heat should have actually been over. So to me it seems a tad out of line for him to be angry about the resurf. The heat should have gone to Logie in the first place.

Anyway, a great day's surfing that's for sure. It's almost torturous to watch that while sitting 2 hours from the coast up near canada. Going to sleep dreaming of tropical barrels.

batfink's picture
batfink's picture
batfink Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 6:04am

Watching that while tapping away on my computer at work was as good as a day at work gets, reminding me of the supremely entertaining Eddie Aikau of a year or two ago.

Thanks Steve, keep it going, plenty more work for that quill of yours.

At the right time I'd be interested to hear the full back and front story of what went down re Jordy and Logie. Commentators alluded to it while clearly wishing to steer clear of it. Your reference to Martin Potter storming the judges tower was news. Interesting but given what is going on it only represents a side story.

Stick with the main game and keep that one for later.

Slater looked cool and good, Jeremy was certainly committed even if I can't warm to the guy.

Owen Wright's heat was an absolute ball-tearer and should have been the first of two perfect 20's today. He didn't just look cool out there, he really gave the impression he knew exactly what he had to do and he went out and did it. One ballsy and technically fluent customer. His 9.77 was probably the wave of the day.

beavis's picture
beavis's picture
beavis Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 6:44am

Nice Read.

For sure Owens 9.77 was a 10 best wave of the day.
I also think Jadson Andre's 6.77 was well underscored that was the biggest wave of the day and by far the most insane drop!

How about Freddy P's drop in on mick fanning as well?! that looked super dangerous and was lucky no-one got hurt. I think the ASP need to reconsider that rule, especially at waves like Chopes or Pipe. Any rule that encourages people to drop in on deadly waves is stupid. If someone does that at pipe it could go pretty pear shaped...

Spewing for Jordy, pretty solid effort to win the heat even after sustaining an injury.. and then to have it taken off him..

billie's picture
billie's picture
billie Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 9:34am

You write really, really well.

mazzapotaza's picture
mazzapotaza's picture
mazzapotaza Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 10:38am

Intrigued would be an understatement as to the goings on inside Nathan Fletchers Head during what does indeed look like the biggest barrel ever ridden. The angle on the sequence was brilliant, giving an amazing breadth, width and depth to a flabbergasting natural event. There is no chaff, every thought and line is paying justice to all involved, big props and aloha

chrissy's picture
chrissy's picture
chrissy Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 1:49pm

Beavis, i completely agree with everything you have written, good calls.. except I think logie deserved it over jordy.

z-man's picture
z-man's picture
z-man Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 2:10pm

I couldn't have imagined a better day of surfing. Including the slow-mo clips of the tow session.
I could hardly believe what my eyes were seeing.
Here's hoping there are some left-over waves for today.

blasphemy-rottmouth's picture
blasphemy-rottmouth's picture
blasphemy-rottmouth Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 4:15pm

Another fine installment Shep.

I don't know how you do it on so little sleep.

Beavis is right... Jadson was criminally underscored on that 6.77. One of the heaviest drops of the day, straight into a blown out barrel. That heat was a toss-up.

And Jeremy Flores, once the comp is over, should have some fun editing all his rides from the last few days and making a Centaur / Sterling Spencer parody for the ages. I agree Shep, never have I seen one person in surfing completely change their reputation in so short a time. Jay-Flo was my personal punching bag for many a moon. I must now acquiesce and bow at his brutal dominance of some of the heaviest lefts we've seen ridden on tour.

There are many, many side stories that should make for a week's worth of Epilogues... Jordy v The Log, Tahitian Navy v Bong, where the fucking hell was a medic when Jordy got hurt (this is Chopes fer chrissakes)?? etc...

Gracias for keeping the dialogue rolling.

surfaripat's picture
surfaripat's picture
surfaripat Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 8:23pm

Hey Steve,

mate i love your coverage- maybe after the event we can get a more of a write up of what it was like to be in the channel watching those phenomenal monster pits from hell especially from the tow day! that is something every surfer wants to do! its must be for sure be right up there with the most incredible surfing experience ever and that just sitting in the chanel watching that stuff?

thegreeniguana's picture
thegreeniguana's picture
thegreeniguana Monday, 29 Aug 2011 at 8:52pm

Sure is good to see the best surfing in waves of consequence. I think that careers have been made during this contest, and there will definitely be implications come the tail end of the year (Parko). Great coverage Freeride.

I appreciate the improvements Billabong have made with their coverage etc, BUT shut the fuck up Doherty!

Does anybody know if joey turdelo surfs?