Teahupoo: The Long Range Forecast

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Swellnet Analysis

On the 20th of August the waiting period to the most eagerly awaited event on the World Tour begins - the Billabong Pro Teahupoo.

For competitors, Teahupoo represents a final chance for the shallow-water tube junkies such as Kieren Perrow and Cory Lopez to excel before the midyear cut. It's also a chance for the current Top 5 of Jordy, Parko, Adriano, Mick and Taj to make a break from the man who sits menacingly in sixth place – Kelly Slater.

As for Slater, he recently admitted that he blew it by not going to J'Bay, thinking there were three throwaway events this year when there are actually only two. With a poor result already registered at Rio and a no show at J'Bay he now has to make every result count. Tellingly he's won Teahupoo three times, while none of the five above him have ever won there.

Of course Teahupoo, with its late drops and heaving shallow-water barrels, is also a favourite in webcast world. For the last six years however, the main event has been held in underwhelming conditions, sometimes being forced to run in small, windlblown surf. Even a move from its original May timeslot to August in order to increase the chances of good swell didn't work.

The large swells have come, however for a few years now it's been the trials – usually held two to three days before the main event - that have received the size and provided the spectacle.

So, with the dates fast approaching what does the current Tahitian swell forecast look like? Will this be the year that the main event finally gets a huge swell? Let's see...

Significant Tahitian swells almost always run in synch with the Long Wave Trough (LWT). A large Teahupoo swell will begin it's life as a deep low below New Zealand before travelling up the east coast of NZ toward Tahiti. That happens when the positioning of the LWT also runs up the east coast of NZ providing a pathway for the low pressure systems to follow.

(To learn more about the LWT and the influence it has on swells click here)

Present forecasts show the LWT moving into a favourable position for Tahitian swell by the 9th of this month (see Figure 1). The Air Tahiti Nui Von Zipper Trials begin on the 14th so this would indicate an above average chance of them receiving a good swell, given that it takes approximately four days for a swell to travel from below NZ to Tahiti.

Unfortunately, this news doesn't bode well for the main event which begins six days later on the 20th. Unless the LWT stalls and keeps directing storms up toward Tahiti it will continue its eastward rotation and also direct swell-producing storms east of Tahiti. This is the likeliest scenario.

If this occurs – that is, the LWT doesn't stall and continues its eastward rotation - the only other likelihood for a significant swell is toward the end of the waiting period when a new node of the LWT moves into position.

It's too far out to predict that yet but keep checking back as we'll provide regular updates. //STU NETTLE & CRAIG BROKENSHA

Comments

ryder's picture
ryder's picture
ryder Thursday, 4 Aug 2011 at 6:11am

You know it's small when a Brazilian wins at Teahupoo.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Thursday, 4 Aug 2011 at 8:59am

Craig, any chance you could provide the link to the LWT model charts above please.

Also, how accurate are the long range charts of the LWT? Are they as accurate as the MSLP long range charts!! ;)

abc-od's picture
abc-od's picture
abc-od Thursday, 4 Aug 2011 at 9:30am

A 'long range forecast' that ends with 'its too far out to predict that yet.'

Good one boys.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Thursday, 4 Aug 2011 at 10:39am

Bit of selective reading there Mr OD. We gave a good indication on what we think may happen during the trials (10 days away) and the first part of the waiting period (16 days away). In surfing terms they are long range forecasts.

The line 'too far out to predict' was referring to the second half of the waiting period which is still three weeks yonder. If you want to predict weather systems from that far out you'd best contact Ken Ring.

z-man's picture
z-man's picture
z-man Thursday, 4 Aug 2011 at 2:06pm

It would be nice if there were waves this year.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Friday, 5 Aug 2011 at 12:08am

Don, they're generated off the NOMADS servers, you can start looking through here.. http://www.nomad3.ncep.noaa.gov/

And as the LWT charts are GFS derived they are as accurate as that model. The chart shown is a 7 day forecast and I would take it to be fairly accurate out to that far as the broader scale upper atmosphere isn't as volatile as at the surface. I But you can go here and look at an ensemble forecast out to 14 days..

http://www.esrl.noaa.gov/psd/map/images/ens/spag_sh_alltimes.html

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 2:25am

Trials look like they'll start with a decent bang!!!

On the longer range, long range EC charts look like they'll deliver something for just before the main event perhaps, so there could be contestable residual surf for the start of the main event...fingers crossed anyway.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 2:45am

I'm pretty sure that swell is going to hit the day before, Don. Remember the time delay - they're 20 hours behind and if you're looking at models with Australia then it'll be dates one day ahead.

Probably still have something left over though.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 2:58am

I presume you're talking about the trials, yeah Stu? Agree, the bulk of that big swell arrives the day before, but as you've said they'll have some leftovers on the start of the trials on 14th Aug (their time). There also looks to be a follow up system behind this one, and whilst swell heights don't look to be as large from this system there certainly looks to be some contestable nice powerful surf to jack up on the reef.

No question the trials will yet again be held in some damn nice contestable and powerful surf. Nothing huge or death defying but I reckon the WCT guys would kill for a forecast similar to the trials.
..

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 3:02am

Yeah, talking about the trials Don.

The swell that we predicted, steered by the Long Wave Trough up toward Tahiti, has come to fruition. However it happened earlier than expected so the trials will only get the tail end of it. Not sure how big the waves will be for the trials though. We'll have another update tomorrow.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 3:45am

Based on the latest forecast, I'd be thinking something of the order of 6ft or so for the trials commencing on the 14th and for the subsequent few days after that.

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Monday, 8 Aug 2011 at 7:00am

Ummmm, latest EC charts are looking pretty damn tasty for the main event....although might be a day or so early for the start of the main event!!! :(

donweather's picture
donweather's picture
donweather Tuesday, 9 Aug 2011 at 3:18am

Long range GFS aligning pretty damn well with EC now too. Could be a good start to the main event comp (finally) if that fetch comes to fruition as currently forecast!!!