Fishy forecast for the Billabong Pro

Ben Matson picture
Ben Matson (thermalben)
Swellnet Dispatch

It's not the synoptic chart we wanted to see.

The Billabong Pro Teahupoo is the fifth stop on the 2010 Men's ASP World Tour. Arguably it's the most eagerly anticipated event of the tour by webcast viewers; everyone hoping for cavernous ten foot pits and a gladiator battle to the finish.

The first five years delivered incredible waves, seemingly on demand, and Teahupoo's mesmerising pits were streamed live to landlocked cubicles worldwide. It was a professional surfing contest guaranteed to reduce work production in the office for at least four days of the year.

And then the dream tour hiccuped.

Although May is usually a reliable time of the year for South Pacific swells, the Billabong Pro seemed to consistently dial in the wrong coordinates, with perfect waves arriving either side of the waiting period for five consecutive years. Sure, some years saw a day or two of good surf, but it appeared that the South Pacific wasn't quite the swell magnet we'd previously been led to believe.

So when the World Tour schedule underwent somewhat of a re-jig in 2010, a decision was made to move the event deeper into the southern hemisphere winter. This, it was hoped, would ensure the event scored thundering Polynesian perfection.

At first glance, it looked like Twenty-Ten might break the hoodoo. This year's Billabong Pro campaign started off in much the same way as previous years, with pumping waves for the Air Tahiti Nui VonZipper Trials. Six to eight feet on the first day, four to six feet for the finals, and plenty of throaty barrels to go 'round. A second southerly groundswell filled in a few days later (yesterday), offering more juice at the famed reef break.

But from here on, the synoptic charts look terrible. The Southern Ocean storm track is focused into central Australian longitudes at the moment, and we're looking at an extended period of inactivity in the South Pacific swell window.

The best Tahitian swells are generated by successions of low pressure systems that race up along New Zealand's East Coast, directing large south-westerly swells towards the tropics. Such swells take around four or five days to reach Tahiti.

This means that a confident seven day synoptic forecast can essentially look twelve days into the future at Teahupoo. And, at this point in time, all of the available computer forecasts suggest that we'll be lucky to see anything bigger than three feet for the majority of the waiting period.

What does this all mean for the Billabong Pro? I'll leave the competitive analysis for those people more qualified than I. But from a weather perspective, I'd be recommending the Top 44 pack a quad fish or two in their quiver before they fly out.

Swellnet's Steve Shearer will be on site at the Billlabong Pro Teahupoo, covering all of the background stories in 'The Outsider'. And any surf that may show up at Teahupoo.

Comments

brendo's picture
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brendo Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 3:44am

bummer, won't be worth watching !!

dan-burke's picture
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dan-burke Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 4:26am

ah, but it'll be good reading though. steve shearer - on the pulse in more ways than one!

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 6:07am

Ben,what about the prospects for long range swell generated south of 50S between 90 and 100E at present?
It is in the swell window with respect to the great circle paths.
That trials swell came from a long way away and not the typical NZ source.

Craig's picture
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Craig Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 6:52am

Steve, it is within the swell window but the winds aren't favourably aligned along the Great Circle path.

They have to much of a west-southwest bias and hence the bulk of the swell will be aimed into the south-east of the country. Any swell reaching tahiti will be spreading our radially from this main direction and not have much size attached to it at all.

If the system had W/NW winds and was pushing east along the Antarctic Shelf then yes this would be a more notable swell event as it would be moving along the Great Circle path towards Tahiti, but this isn't the case.

We'll hear what Ben has to say...

freeride76's picture
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freeride76 Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 7:03am

thought so Craig, clutching at straws.

Craig's picture
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Craig Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 7:16am

I hope something major shows up on the cards for you later in the period Steve!

In any case have a safe trip and I can't wait to read your articles.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Friday, 20 Aug 2010 at 9:18pm

Steve, as Craig said, that system's not particularly well aligned towards Tahiti. You need a rather incredible fetch in that part of the world to generate sizeable waves for Teahupoo.

Ironically, there is a potentially good long range swell expected to develop in Tahiti's distant window - near Heard Island - during the middle of next week (Aug 24/24). Unfortunately, there's around ten days travel time from there to Tahtiti (give or take), which means that it'd probably arrive a day or two after the waiting period.

In previous (poor swell) years, despite the overall unfavourable storm track for Tahiti, there was always the odd flukey swell visible in the forecast that had the potential to deliver a random day of decent waves. And if not a classic south-west swell, then there have been other options - last year for example, if I recall correctly - had a stationary trough parked SE of Tahiti that generated an unusual SE swell for the region, that Slater took full advantage of at a nearby island (remember that right?).

This year, we've got nothing of the kind. The swell from the storm you mentioned Steve is due next Fri (Aust time, Thurs Tahiti time), but I can't see it amounting to much more than an occasional 3ft set every twenty-five minutes.

Other than that, we can only hope the computer models undergo some radical changes in the next couple of days. Otherwise, it's going to be a forgettable Tahitian event.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Saturday, 21 Aug 2010 at 9:22pm

We're another day closer to the event, and the long term forecast remains the same.. still no signs of any major swells for Tahiti for the entire waiting period.

In fact, we may see a small westerly swell towards the end of the period, thanks to strong frontal activity pushing through the Tasman during the middle to latter part of the coming week. But, westerly swells are a tricky proposition at Teahupoo, and there probably won't be much size either.

Otherwise, I get the feeling that we'll see a decent-sized mid latitude low developing east of New Zealand around Aug 31/Sep 1. If this low generates a swell for Tahiti, it may very well arrive to late to be of benefit to the event (although, cut off lows in this neck of the woods are often aimed more towards Fiji/Tonga than Tahiti, so it may not be of use anyway).

If a potential post-waiting period swell does appear on the charts, I wonder if the ASP will consider extending the waiting period?

nickg's picture
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nickg Sunday, 22 Aug 2010 at 6:00am

"I wonder if the ASP will consider extending the waiting period?"

this would be great if they get to the point where the holders to the rights for the live telecasts start to demand it and they can only run an event in decent waves.

hell, why not just have comps on wherever the waves are going to be at any point in time?

aitch's picture
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aitch Sunday, 22 Aug 2010 at 5:55pm

I've been banging on about hosting events like at Gnarloo etc from boats for ages. aka Cloudbreak. Zero impact on land, bar a few photographers and camera men. 100% mobile and for places like Tahiti, they could've moved the contest to the right and smashed it.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Sunday, 22 Aug 2010 at 7:46pm

Running competitions from boats is very difficult aitch - been there before - and webcasting is even more difficult (for technical reasons I won't go into). BTW, the setup at Cloudbreak is/was identical to Teahupoo.. judging from a tower on the reef, support from boats in the channel. Only main difference is the distance from 'shore' is greater in Fiji.

This year though, even the right's not going to be worthwhile.. being mobile probably won't offer much relied from the lack of swell.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Sunday, 22 Aug 2010 at 8:51pm

Another day, another model run update - and still no signs of any major swells for the entire waiting period.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 2:50am

So what's your thoughts on the latest long range GFS charts Ben? They're hinting at something developing (albeit nothing huge) to the east of NZ in about 1 weeks time?

Craig's picture
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Craig Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 3:01am

Yeah they are, buy EC is the opposite with the low positioned off NZ's West Coast.

We'll see how the models evolve tonight, but as Ben stated today, any swell from that system will arrive too late and after the waiting period.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 6:19am

Thanks Craig. GFS has that system pushing east of NZ late on Sunday 29th and into Monday 30th, so by my calcs, the swell could actually arrive in Tahiti on the last day of the waiting period (Tahiti time)....albeit still rather small based on current model forecasts.

Do they have any backup locations that they could surf, or is this event gonna be a fizzer in very inconsistent, small surf, thus the man who gets the freak set will win rather than the man who is the best surfer.

Craig's picture
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Craig Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 7:44am

Models have updated and I'm more interested in a juicy SE swell that could be on the cards for Tuesday in Sydney next week than what's going on over in Tahiti :D

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 7:45am

No backup locations Don - it's Teahupoo or bust.

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 9:42am

Yeah Craig, I saw the latest charts this afternoon and even I was getting excited in SE Qld.

Sounds like bust to me Ben. Gonna be some very disappointed surfers and sponsors from this event yet again. Question is, will they can it next year as it's seriously struggled the last few years (in the main event).

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 11:15am

Latest GFS run has a narrow but reasonably long S'ly fetch just off the ice shelf to the SE of NZ late Wed and into Thurs, with the fetch moving in a positive (for swell generation) N'ly track. Once again nothing huge, but it's the best of a poor lot that they need to look for now!!!

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 23 Aug 2010 at 8:43pm

Saw that Don.. although unfortunately it's not really showing up in the local 12Z bulletin. Personally, I can't see much size eventuating in Tahiti from it, but in the absence of a true Tahitian swell pattern, it's certainly worth keeping a close eye on in case the models develop it further over the coming days. This is a possibility.

There's also a stationary polar low modeled to be near 130W on Friday that'll kick up a small S/SE swell for Tahiti around Tues (our time), but I can't see much in it either.

Interesting too - I've been speaking to a few people on site over the last week or so, and the general feeling (given the poor forecast) was that they'd do everything they could to run today and/or tomorrow, just to get some of the comp out of the way. Reason being, is that today was meant to offer one of the bigger days of the forecast period. But even then it was still too small!

Looks like there won't be any surfing until Fri (our time) when the next long range SW groundswell is due to arrive. Even then we'll be extremely lucky to see much more than a stray 2-3ft set every twenty minutes.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 12:59am

Jeez, the GFS model is jumping around markedly. In the space of one model update (06Z to 12Z), it's wound back Don's polar low, and moved the polar low I mentioned above at 130W, to now be too far east to be of any benefit to Tahiti.

Additionally, GFS has spun up a potentially good S/SE swell generating mid-latitude low near 138W, 44S on Monday (EC is also inline with the broadscale pattern, which is encouraging).

If this eventuated we'd potentially see good waves on the last two days of the waiting period - nothing huge but probably somewhere around 4-6ft.

But.. given the wild swings in the model runs over the last few days I'd keep all optimism at bay for the time being.

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 1:23am

Do you mean 12z to 18z Ben? If not, what's the 18z model run showing? I'm on a client's machine so don't have access to the models at work (or should I say during work time).

If it's the low I think you're referring to, EC has been progging that low for a few days now I think?

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 1:33am

Nah, it's a different low - initially the models were propagating the feature in the Tasman over New Zealand, and then reintensifying it in the South Pacific (but unfavourably for Tahiti). The models are now stalling the Tasman system near NZ and spinning up a new low well to the S/SE of Fiji.

It wasn't there on this morning's 06Z run (when I checked at 5am) but appeared in the 12Z run update. I don't think 18Z is available yet.

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 3:05am

18z model run was out at 9am our time. It's showing the low you're referring to Ben, but it will be a fleeting pulse as the fetch is only aimed at Tahiti for a brief time, based on the 18z run output.

Still by far the best fetch we've seen in the Tahiti swell window, so fingers crossed.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 3:56am

As a rule, I usually ignore 06Z and 18Z anyway (couldn't wait at dawn this morning though!). I reckon I'll leave it until 00Z before assessing this distant swell source, and then reassess again with tomorrow morning's 12Z.

In any case, if this speculated system diminishes away, we'll certainly be looking at scraps from start to finish for the Billabong Pro. How disappointing.

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 12:07pm

Without trying to hoodoo the boys, they might just pull this one off with the last few days of the waiting period if that GFS low comes to fruition early next week.....fingers crossed for their sake.

donweather's picture
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donweather Tuesday, 24 Aug 2010 at 12:29pm

06z model looking even better!!!

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Wednesday, 25 Aug 2010 at 7:08am

Latest model run seems to have changed the dynamics of the low, and have majorly downgraded its swell generating potential. And so disappears the last glimmer of hope for a swell bigger than 3ft at Teahupoo this year.

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 26 Aug 2010 at 12:26am

Latest 12z GFS run begs to differ Ben....although it is delaying the onset of the fetch on the SW/W flank of the low, which in my experience isn't a good sign.

EC isn't playing ball with it either

donweather's picture
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donweather Thursday, 26 Aug 2010 at 12:29am

What about the smaller fetch that develops to the SW of Tahiti this weekend? It certainly looks to deliver something in the 4-5ft range to Tahiti this Sunday (Tahiti time)?

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Thursday, 26 Aug 2010 at 12:34pm

The cut off low looks too small for me Don. Cut off lows really need to be quite big in order to generate anything notable - there's 3600km between the fetch core (Mon arvo) and Tahiti, which is a very large distance (and therefore large degree of wave decay).

Actually, there's a new development in the latest GFS run - an interesting polar low/front is expected to develop south of NZ on Monday, before merging with the aforementioned cut-off low on Tuesday, and current progs would suggest a good groundswell for the last day of the waiting period. Won't be huge but 4-5ft+ sets are a possibility. Well worth watching.

Re: smaller fetch developing SW of Tahiti this weekend - there's not a lot of substance in the swell window IMO. The actual fetch length is only small, winds strengths are comparatively weak, and any resulting swell would probably be from the W/SW. It may kick up wave heights to 3-4ft but I can't see it producing anything interesting at Teahupoo - it'll effectively be a weak, peaky windswell, should peak Monday afternoon (Aust time). In my eyes, at a reef break like Teahupoo I'd prefer a smaller long period swell than a slightly larger short period swell.

Anyway, it's good to finally see some activity in the models - at least it gives us something to check back on tomorrow!

donweather's picture
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donweather Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 2:46am

So you don't reckon they'll run the event from Monday (Tahiti time) onwards, or at least for Monday/Tuesday to try and knock over some of the event, and await the final pulse you're referring to on the last day of the waiting period for the finals?

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donweather Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 2:50am

Whoops, got my dates wrong....I meant Sunday arvo onwards and into Mon/Tues with what looks to be a reasonably decent pulse of mid range SSW swell. Sure not the great swell period that Chopes is acustomed too, but still should be a contestable/surfable swell me thinks.

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donweather Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 2:51am

One other question I'm not sure on, Ben. How does Chopes handle an E'ly wind?

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thermalben Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 4:25am

E'ly winds are fine at Teahupoo Don.

Gut feel tells me they'll do everything they can to get a day under the belt tomorrow. Saturday will be a non-event, Sunday's a possibility depending on the timing of the new low period swell, Monday will probably be a contestable day.

Hopefully this will then leave them with a markedly reduced number of heats left to run through to finish the event over the last couple of days of the waiting period.

Balance's picture
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Balance Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 5:00am

Given that there is such a huge amount riding on the first two rounds of this event, ie results will determine who is dropped off the tour, do you think this will have an impact on the decision making process with regards to what type of conditions they will commence the event in?
And if they do start the contest in very poor conditions, that will really suck for them guys battling it out for tour spots

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 10:08am

bindy, right now it seems that they'll be happy if there's a rideable wave at the contest site, let alone the privilege of being able to choose between individual days. What a tragedy!

Balance's picture
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Balance Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 11:51am

It is a tragedy, and I think given the abovementioned importance, cancelling the event must become an option. I also must say that having a contest such as this with no back-up location or plan b seems to me like pretty poor management. The tour has just had nearly two months off, was any consideration given to the idea of this event being on standby during that whole time. With forecasting so accurate and travel being so accessible these days, I would think the benefits of doing it this way would outweigh the negatives.What do you think?

Also,Have you done much in the way of Maths looking at who needs to place where to be safe, or what positions are definately safe already?

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thermalben Friday, 27 Aug 2010 at 10:32pm

I agree that they should have a backup location bindy.

But, it's impossible to have an ASP World Tour event on standby for much more than a couple of weeks - the two weeks already in place for each event is very expensive. Two months would be logistically impossible.

Sure, forecasting is accurate but it's all relative - for example, right now they'd kill for a clean 4ft swell. But.. if we had a theoretical two month waiting period, where would you set the threshold to press the green light? 6ft.. 8ft.. 10ft? What if you went for two months without any swells above 6ft.. would you hold the event in the first 4ft swell just to make sure it gets run? I know that lengthy periods of small swells are unlikely at places like Tahiti during the prime swell season, but it is still very possible.

At the end of the day, they have to roll the dice with their choice of locations and time of year, and unfortunately Tahiti has drawn the short straw for what now appears to be the sixth consecutive year.

Are there any solutions to the situation? I don't think there are. Personally, my call would be to soldier on and run it again next year. We know how great this event can be, and basic statistics show that their poor run of waves is well overdue.

As for moving the event to coincide with theoretically better swell chances - as long as they keep it in the climatological higher swell months between April and September, I don't think there's any merit whatsoever in targeting a particular two week time frame in order to guarantee better waves. Nothing is assured in such a small window of opportunity.

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donweather Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 3:40am

Whilst I understand completely Ben what you're saying, Bindy has a damn good point. And it's further backed up by taking a look at the long range charts. How's the fetch to the east of NZ early-mid next week!!! If that puppy comes off Chopes will be off tap by the end of next week.

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thermalben Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 3:59am

The long range forecast looks pretty average for Teahupoo IMO Don - cut off lows might provide a half a day of OK waves, but essentially, in order to see a classic Tahiti swell worth extending the waiting period for, we need the jet stream to be in position (which it's not, and not expected to for some time either).

Anyway, where would you draw the line at extending the waiting period? One extra day past the waiting period, or two days, or a week, or a fortnight? There's a lot of staff at these events who have other jobs and commitments to attend to after the event, flights to be changed, accommodation needs to be extended.. just on the hope that a swell materialises at some point beyond the waiting period.

In any case, it's also just a part of competitive surfing too - the best surfer in all conditions, and all that. If we were completely flexible for every event on the ASP calendar, each competition would have overlapping waiting periods and nothing would ever get done. I don't see any reason why we should make excuses for Teahupoo - we haven't for any other event. Bells had to move to 13th Beach, Winkipop and Johanna to get run this year, rather than waiting for a classic Bells swell.

It's such a shame.. I was really looking forward to the return of some thundering barrels for this year's event. But it wasn't to be... I reckon it'll just make everyone hungrier for 2011.

Balance's picture
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Balance Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 8:16am

Thanks for the detailed answer Ben, you did raise some good points I hadnt thought of. Just to clarify, I didnt mean for the guys to go and set up in Tahiti for two months, more that they monitor the forecasts over that two month period, and when they see good conditions a week or so away, they contact all competitors and then get the event started, obviously allowing time for setting up, arrivals etc, but I definately agree that there probably is no perfect solution.

Also, do you know why there are no permanent ASP events in Indonesia, which is now widely regarded as having the most reliable swell and wave locations in the world?

Finally, I checked the forecast on the event website and they sound pretty positive about getting some swell next week, do you share their optimism, have you looked into what they are seeing?

donweather's picture
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donweather Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 9:31am

I missed out that I was specifically referring to the long range 12z EC model run. It was showing a pretty impressive fetch east of NZ early next week. I wasn't actually siggesting they extend the waiting period. More so along what Bindy was suggesting with having an event window and then call on the event once they see an impressive fetch in that event window.

Anyway, this is all hypothetical given that Luke Egan wants to run the event in the best swell in Rds 2 and 3 to avoid a backlash from the bottom guys who are about to lose their job after this event.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 5:59pm

Bindy, I can't see where their optimism is coming from. Sure.. there are a few sources of new swell on the cards for the coming week (bigger than what we've seen this week), but in all honesty, Teahupoo just isn't that interesting to watch unless the swell is a quality long range event, at least 4-6ft. But, that's just my opinion.

Why are there no ASP events in Indonesia? Not really sure. It comes down to the event licensees, and where they want to spend their money - and with a declining economy in recent years, there hasn't been much money to spend on new events. I spoke to someone high up at Quiksilver four or five years ago, who told me they were looking to get G'land back on the map the following year. That didn't eventuate, but it's still being rumoured... so maybe we'll see something in the next year or two.

Also re: your comment "..they monitor the forecasts over that two month period, and when they see good conditions a week or so away, they contact all competitors and then get the event started" - this brings up a whole range of ethical issues.

Should a large surf company be able to lock down one of the world's best surf breaks for as long as they like, so that they can cherry pick the best swells and exclude the local surfers (and/or travellers) from surfing?

A good example was the Rip Curl Pro in Bali a few years back - with the location being withheld from the general public until the event was live, no-one knew where it was. I heard a story where some surfers had coincidentally booked their annual two week holiday to Uluwatu during the same two week period of the event. They were pretty unimpressed to arrive in Bali, only to find fifty of the world's best surfers, plus another two hundred and fifty event staff, managers and international media jostling for waves. They also weren't very pleased to find that they weren't allowed to surf out the front of their accommodation whenever the contest was being run.

This is just the tip of the iceberg - there are a lot of other things to think about. The staffing requirements for each event is enormous.. extending the event waiting period from two weeks to two months could potentially quadruple the running costs.

Seeing that most two week periods usually have three good days of waves, I'd be more inclined to write off this year's event (again!) and just steam ahead with the competition next year.

Balance's picture
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Balance Saturday, 28 Aug 2010 at 10:51pm

Once again thanks for the excellent response, I honestly hadnt thought of that, but I must have neglected to tell you that I am pretty stupid! Oh yeah, and I am also just a dog, my master didnt want to put his name to the comments in case he embarassed himself, he's happy for me to get laughed at!

Do you think it is a given that they will run those overlapping heats to get through them quicker? Can they even be done in the first round ie 3 man heats? (6 guys in the water with very few contestable waves, I assume not!?!)

Man those event organisers must be so stressed out, I get crazy when my local has a bad forecast for a few days!!!

donweather's picture
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donweather Monday, 30 Aug 2010 at 10:10am

Still looking pretty damn good for multiple decent swell trains arriving after the comp!!

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 31 Aug 2010 at 6:30am

Yes - the storm track looks like it's going to reorganise itself underneath New Zealand this Thurs/Fri (our time), but we won't see any swell from this until the early/middle part of next week. Five days too late.

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donweather Tuesday, 31 Aug 2010 at 10:51am

Hence again it's a real shame this event has to go down in such crap conditions compared to what the trials got and what's coming within 4-5 days at the back end of the comp. If today was the pick of the forecast (which by all accounts it was) this event is going to be a rather lame event and such a shame it's going to oust some of the Top 44.

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donweather Wednesday, 1 Sep 2010 at 10:27am

Latest 00z GFS run has a mackin swell aimed straight for Tahiti early-mid next week. Comp is gonna miss it big time.