To the contrary: A different point of view
The following article was written by Swellnet reader, Mick J, in response to blindboy's last article plus recent issues raised on Swellnet.
The Australian surfing commentariat, for all its squinty-eyed experience, is a deeply solipsistic group, as wedded to own its worldview as any number of elites worldwide. The rash of foundation shaking events of the last couple years – Billabong, ZoSea, Hipsters, ASP judging, wave pools – have barely registered a blip outside our narrow world, and their actual impact inside the wire, I believe, has also been massively overstated. Storms in salty teacups one and all.
There have been few true inflection points in surfing's history: Duke, the shortboard revolution, wetsuits, the thruster professional surfing, the internet (surf forecasting specifically). That's about it for me, half a dozen key points in surfing's history where not just the direction of travel changed but so did the velocity, and massively so. Everything today is simply a derivative of one of these paradigm shifts and there are few (if any) clear candidates as to what will next join the pantheon.
Instead, we're endlessly debating (yes, including this piece) over the micro, thus giving weight to cultural blips that simply aren't backed up by material changes to the way we live our surfing lives either individually or collectively. And in doing so, we're failing to pick up on some of the underlying macro trends that are in fact shaping our lineups; this is dark matter stuff – we feel the impact, but can't see the cause.
Take demographics for example. Surfing remains a young sport; we're decades old at best in terms of mass participation. Crowded lineups today are as much to do with the fact that we're still sitting shoulder to shoulder with the founding fathers as it is down to surf schools adding more users into the mix. Surf schools are churn and burn merchants, rarely producing contenders for waves of the day.
Layered on top of this are ever improving health standards and increased life expectancy. Not only are the old timers still around, but they're fit and active. There were no (or very few) 50+ year old blokes surfing in the 70s or 80s, now there are plenty.
Australia is now a nation of considerable wealth, and more wealth generally means more time to devote to leisure pursuits, including bobbing around on a surfboard. The FIFO population, admittedly a small percentage of all workers, is weighted to surfing age persons and these guys are the kings of time off. Yet another reason why your lineup may feel crowded on any given weekday lunchtime.
So we have more generations of surfers active than ever before, and with more time and income available to chase the next fix. No wonder that my local is seeing the same trend as has been noted elsewhere here, a hollowing out of the key grommet ranks of 15-20 year olds as they're faced with battling, not just their immediate elders for waves, but also the hardened 30-40 year olds that have earned their stripes and aren't that keen to give them back. Plus the 50+ ranks on boards that work and with knowledge on their side. Top of the pole looks a long way off if you're still riding a pushie to the beach.
Ultimately, surfers are simply one subset of the broader human population, with self-interest amongst the strongest of motivators. Surfing is an inherently selfish activity and competition for scarce resources worldwide – food, water, energy, set waves – is always dictated by supply and demand. Marginal value may dictate it's cool to share once you have the luxury of doing so, but relatively few of the world's estimated 20 million surfers do. High intensity lineups are here to stay.
Homo-sapiens are also relentless innovators, we out think to out fight, and that's why I'm confident the current Hipster-inspired go slow phase is just that, a phase. There is strength in diversity so those dedicated to old design technology have a place (of course) on the common canvas that is a lineup, but it won't win them the long game. Surfing, as does all of humanity, develops fastest when driven by the pursuit of function.
So to summarise.
Yes, lineups are more crowded but it's not because of surf schools or because Billabong tried (and failed) to go mainstream. Surfers will always compete hard for the best waves because that's what humans do. Consequently, professional surfing will always exist, despite some ups and downs along the way.
Wave pools may be the next really big inflection point but that's not guaranteed yet either, light towers for example are a much simpler way to double the current carrying capacity of the most crowded lineups. The wave pool effect may also be different to currently anticipated. Surfing's extended learning curve is what really keeps numbers from exploding; shortening this curve may mean the increase to overall competency in the lineup – if people get functionally good quicker - has a greater impact than simply increased headcount. We all know it's harder getting waves in a pack of 10 guys that can surf well than 20 with only a handful of contenders in the rotation.
There is nothing unique about an austere surf industry; creative destruction after all.
Finally, let's not overstate our own importance. The implication of having enough leisure time to go surfing is that we're already amongst the blessed in life's game of chance, skill played some small part but that was it. Recognise that and I think many of the assumptions we jointly hold about the pursuit and industry we know and love melt very rapidly away. //Mick J
Comments
My displeasure at being thoroughly rebutted was more than balanced by my elevation to the elite commentariat. But Mick, as the only comments on surfing I have had published in the last thirty years are on Swellnet I guess you have now joined that privileged group as well.
I'm against protesting but I don't know how to show it.
Well not sure about that BB, this being my debut number and all. And this was only a semi rebuttal piece mate, many of the issues I see as minor are covered at length by the real surf press as well so it was more directed to the 'commentariat' at large (with credit your way on the 'Hipster' piece however).
Just thought there were some bigger forces at play that should be highlighted, interested to see what the rest of the Swellnet community think as well.
Cheers
Nice piece Mick J, I enjoyed your point of view and agree with much of it.
- The only point I'd argue is that while the changes enacted by the salient inflection points are well noted, I don't think you can understate the cumulative effect of all the minor deviations from the 'mainstream' on the surfing culture.
Long term changes are rarely pivotal and tend to occur in gradual ebbs and flows that mask a waterway's changing trajectory. Not to say the hipster movement is here to stay (god I hope it dies a short but painful death), but I do believe some tenants of it will live on through indirect influence.
Mick I think one of Stu's main aims is to open up the debate and attract voices from outside the surfing industry and media. So hopefully we are both well outside the real commentariat.
I understood it as BlindBoy's article was a hypothesis (prediction?) of what may come, NOT of what has happened. Although I didn't necessarily agree with BB's article - hard to say, we dont get too many Hipsters in my town - I enjoyed it as an exercise in ideas.
Rouby Douby:
Yeah don't disagree mate, evolution is all baby steps and incremental modification after all. But I do think societies and/or communities can experience highly discrete Berlin Wall moments as well, where the before and after is both abrupt and disruptive ... I just don't think the hipster movement passes the materiality test myself is all.
derra83:
Fair point, there is indeed a difference between writing about things that have happened (my 'inflection points') vs. making a prediction about what's going to happen. BB and I crossed paths on the Hipster issue but agree we're otherwise running different lines of approach here.
"That's about it for me, half a dozen key points in surfing's history where not just the direction of travel changed but so did the velocity, and massively so."
Nice article Micki. One of the key points in surfing's history you have left out is the impact of Gidget. Not the quality of the movie but how it exposed surfing to the populus. Particulary the youth. They fell in love with the life style, the elements and it just looked like so much fun. And it still is just about fun to a massive majority of participants.
Unfortunatly pro surfing get's all the press so the perception is that all things surfing revolve around high performance,judgment of ability, brands and money. That's why pro surfers at Snapper have no problem dropping in on one of us infidels when the cameras are around because we'll just get photo shopped out and the Mag readers will be none the wiser.
If every surfer followed that dream of being a pro surfer then there is going to be alot of dissapointed people in the water. Maybe the dream has already passed so many by and that is why there are so many angry people in the line up. Are they in denial about their ability and just looking for something, someone or a minority group to blame? Are they resentful that others have found out how to enjoy surfing for what it is and they haven't? I'm sure todays pros had crowd issues during their development. And past pros, case in piont: Tom Curren at Rincon. Read his bio.
Hipsters or just a bunch of people that found a copy of Gidget at a gararge sale?
@cl
Read the above.
Quote from MickJ "Finally, let's not overstate our own importance. The implication of having enough leisure time to go surfing is that we're already amongst the blessed in life's game of chance, skill played some small part but that was it. Recognise that and I think many of the assumptions we jointly hold about the pursuit and industry we know and love melt very rapidly away. "
Be proud of who you are.
Yeh wellymon, I loved that quote too. It is too easy to forget how lucky we are to be able to surf at all.
Sage words MickJ. Thanks for taking the time to compose the article, and to BB also.
Yeah BB
Everyday we wake, We should live it like our last.
I know thats hard sometimes, but just be happy and be proud of who you are and what you and your family have.
We could go deeper!
Nice article MickJ, I like it.
Yea I understand all that but what is the dome, (the new horror series on tv at the moment) what is it ?
lazzy-100
Its based of an old programme back in the Late 70's or early 80's called "Logan's Run "
I remember that show wellymon and there is lots of similaritys but still, we don't know what the purpose of the dome is ,is it sinister or friendly. Are towns people traped or protected in a cocoon from something that's about to happen out side.
Funny cause, I brought the same thing up in a thread today!
I would not have a clue at all about that one Lazzy-10,000000.
I have not watched it at all.
Give me the run down later.
Yieew
To the contrary Lazzy - 1 million- a different point of view.
"Everyday we wake, we should live t like our last"
I find that saying quite negative, wouldn't it be better to live every day like it was your first, with enthusiasm none of that baggage from the past.
If I lived everyday like my last I'd never get anything done.
Yeah Shauno, fair call, To The Contrary.
Shauno's spelling "Everyday we wake, we should live t like our last"
What does "t" stand for, is it Tit?
If you live everyday like its your first, everyone I'm sure can't even open their eyes, so you can't see anything except the back off your eye lids, your wrapped up so hard in a lovely cosy blanket and can't move your arms or legs, then to top it off your on Mums tummy sucking on her boobies. I.E. Tit?
I'm really sure that I would not want to live every day like that.
What I was trying to explain, is just a phrase I've used for a longtime. I suppose it means try and make the most of everyday that we are alive and be happy.
Cheers
If tits are your thing welly then tits it is.
Shauno tits are great but not my mums, especially at mine or my dead mums age.
Quote from zenagain along time ago "don't think it's been popular. Seems to be just between a handful of blokes that want to get the last word in.
I say bury it too and get back to things that surfers love talking about, waves, beer, tits, equipment and tits.
Did I mention tits?"
Great article MickJ, couldn't agree more. A recent article brought out all the grizzly gronkers like flies to shit, looking for some one to blame.
One or more astute observers suggested that certain individuals driving the hate agenda, are in actual fact more threatened by the quality of surfers rather than the quantity of surfers, and went on to pose... "If you're a local, you should have the the joint fully wired, so claim your stake by charging harder and taking off deeper.!"
My version of the same was... "I've never met any local anywhere, worth his salt, who couldn't get his waves and some."
The worst, most over zealous, horrible cunt, no cameras, no exposure, no surf industry, pathetic "local", I've ever encountered in all my travels and years surfing, was an embarassingly bloody awful surfer, whose DNA obviously extended onto land, where he excercises his harassment defence mechanism with a vengance. He can't help himself, cos he can't cut it in the water, even when he's surfing by himself.
Truth is, crowds don't stifle surfing, the competition pushes it upwards. That's why generally the best surfers in the world come from the most crowded locations.
Gee , you still pissed off with me?
Me Shaun? I dunno, I didn't think I was describing you, I hope not.
Well Sid, it is the internet, you never know who your chatting too.
Hope you weren't describing me, but you might have been.
True that "Shaun".
However only you would be able to confirm if you fit the characteristics outlined above. Be free to share if these are traits of yours you feel worthy.
Again, I hope not, I think you'd be bigger than that.
Some days bigger than others, depending on the mood and time of month:)
BB, Wellymon, MickJ et al,
---Yeh wellymon, I loved that quote too. It is too easy to forget how lucky we are to be able to surf at all.---
Ain't that the truth.
If surfing ever disappoints or frustrates you, may I suggest the following...
Go have yourself a really horrendous injury. Spend an extended period of time, at least a year or more, laid up in between corrective surgery procedure(s), and on crutches. Spend the best part of the next year learning to walk properly again. From there you'll be able to ever so slowly regain your fitness, and even more slowly learn how to surf again. Warning: you may need to ride a mal for stability for awhile.
Trust me, from then on, every wave, any wave, is a good one, and every day is beautiful.
sidthefish
Hope you make it to the next "Surfing for the Disabled" day in your area. You'll make alot of people happy with the attitude expressed in your last post. I'm sure you'll be very welcome.
sidthefish, Agree, a year long injury will do it to you.
The saying I perviously mentioned, is that I have personally been involved in 6 near death experiences over my life, avalanches, car accidents, stupid stuff etc.
I do honestly appreciate every waking day, when we brush so close with death you start to understand how minuscule we are in this fragile journey of life.
That is why I liked the last paragraph of this article by MickJ.
Cheers
I enjoyed both BB's Hipster and MickJ's To the Contrary.
Great insight into past and present surf culture and the traditions that flow.
Surfing will never be overtly mainstream, no matter what resources or how the surf culture meme progresses or is subverted / forced upon the unsuspecting masses.
Surfing is an inherent coastal culture, for obvious reasons. What the majority in Australia can relate to is a manifest result of the national beach culture. We Australians recognise, and generally admire that bronzed vision that perpetuates, originally from surf lifesaving (and the Duke), to the surfer (good or bad). When you consider 98% of the Australian population lives on the coast, it is evident that those who are less fortunate than those who participate in ocean activities will live vicariously through those who do. Anyone remember the 90's surf fashion bandwagon, every young hot thing that didn't surf wanted to, if they couldn't, they lived vicariously through fashion. It died a very happy death in my book.
Now, if anyone has done a little travelling to countries that are either landlocked, or only a small percentage of the population lives on the coast, the inland young; champing at the bit for the Merchants of Cool next hip thing are so far removed from coastal cool (as we know it)...The Kardashians, the next IPhone, the next way to separate them from their money, and surfing chic is not even on the radar.
Even if these same young groovers have been exposed to coastal cool, it is such a perverted diversion from reality these kids might as well be living in a parallel universe.
So I guess what I’m saying is, Surfing will never work it’s way into the psyche of the world’s beautiful young minds as a legitimate, until death do us part lifestyle, just as the Hipsters BB wrote about will die a quiet death. It’s a wave, a fad that, even though it has the cool factor, doesn’t have the grit, the guts to sustain itself long term. To be a lifelong movement, whatever that may be now for the Hipsters, or for whatever is the next cool sub-culture, takes sustained gut fuelled passion. That passion comes from a genuine place of oneness within one self, not a place of group mentality thrust forward by the Merchants. And no matter how the Hipsters see themselves as the originators, the look, the ethos, the dream was put forward by a focus group aimed at separating these same, young cool cats from their hard earned coin. The Hipsters live on a false hope that they are truly living the new way, the new enlightenment.
In the end, The Merchants of Cool will never allow Hipsters, or the next sub-cultural iteration to have staying power. There are much greater powers than the draw of the ocean at play here, and the waves do not create enough cash flow for that to happen.
What we will see is the same, insular surf culture we are accustomed to with the odd blow in thinking surfing is something bigger than it actually is.
P.S. I’m one of those FIFO guys, a crusty old dude making the most of empty lineps between the tradie and schoolie surf hours.
Still standing by the ridiculous assertion that surf schools haven't crowded line ups ?
Hard to say which of us are making 'ridiculous' assertions without some form of empirical testing. Also bear in mind I'm not talking about any one beach (e.g. Manly) but at a total population level.
As an analysis framework:
What was the surfing population prior to the advent of surf schools? I would cut this three ways to begin - total surfer population, as a % of the overall population, rate of surfer population growth annually in % terms.
Then run the same metrics on a post surf school basis and compare/contrast.
Still confident surf schools will be a minor input relative to 'organic' factors such as overall population growth and the effect of cumulative generations being in the water at the same time. And especially so when it comes to surf school attendees (or graduates) actually competing for the best waves on any given day - sure they'll get in the way plenty (depending on where you surf) but yes I stand by my assertion that they rarely evolve their skills to the point of being in the rotation with anyone that reads this forum.
Will be limited by the available data but I'll take a look and come back to you.
Cheers
Great to read your POV Mick & all that have contributed.
The one thing that I don't relate to is this real anti sentiment to this so called "Hipster" movement or phase. Who cares?? Why can't people just do what they want with there lives so long as it doesn't harm anyone or anything else. You don't have to like it but why be so hung up about it?? Strange......
A couple of ways to look at this one too I think.
To the extent that 'Hipsters' are neglecting to wear legropes in crowded lineups, on equipment that is often long/heavy/more difficult to maneuver, then can you really say its harmless? There are numerous cited examples that the opposite is indeed true.
In this case they're practicing something that was safe in the original incarnation but is no longer so in the derivative version today. And yes of course other surfers also go out sans legrope but I bet the ratio is higher in the 'Hipster' population, and so are the odds that the board involved will be more impactful should it hit you (heavier, longer etc).
On a more subjective level they are harmless, all depends on how you value progress and individuality. Personally, I prefer the benefits of modern cars, mobile technology and online surf forecasts ... and my views on surfboards are no different. Others clearly disagree.
As for individuality, the most uniform surfer population of all right now is the Hipster movement (in my opinion) so in trying to be different, they're the most homogenous of all. I'd rather do what works for me rather than what's cool.
So we do agree on that level, to each their own.
It was a great read Mick, can't believe I missed it when it was first published but this paragraph: "Homo-sapiens are also relentless innovators, we out think to out fight, and that's why I'm confident the current Hipster-inspired go slow phase is just that, a phase. There is strength in diversity so those dedicated to old design technology have a place (of course) on the common canvas that is a lineup, but it won't win them the long game. Surfing, as does all of humanity, develops fastest when driven by the pursuit of function."-
made me go 'whaaaa?"
Hipsters are riding logs and mid-lengths which as a basic functional attribute will easily outpaddle and out compete modern shortboards for waves, so on a purely functional wave catching in a crowd basis you'd only expect that phenomena to increase based on your reasoning. Which seems sound to me.
Being a "hipster" surfer and riding that equipment enables the modern urban omnivore to lead a relatively low committment surfer existence because it doesn't take the same level of time to achieve and maintain competency on those boards.
Thanks mate.
On your point, it depends on what sort of functionality you're chasing though right? If surfing was about catching the most waves then fine, its a straight volume competition. But given it's what actually happens once you're on your feet that generally defines good surfing then I'd argue the log/mid length thing has a very definite performance ceiling, especially as the waves get better.
Cheers
Sure, I was looking at it purely from the darwinian perspective of catching waves in more and more crowded high intensity lineups.
Which seemed to be the thrust of your article.
I'd argue that significant sections of the surfing population have stopped caring completely about surfing in terms of a "high performance" arms race, and just want to go catch a few waves.
That alone might also be a major shift in thinking.
Dunno mate, I think this is largely a local debate in some respects anyway.
Here in WA, the whole Hipster thing is largely a non issue - there's not a single surfer out of this state of any public profile that could remotely wear the label. It's still - fastest, deepest, biggest, highest. Especially amongst grommets, you go Down South and there's an incredibly deep grom pack and not one of them is interested in anything other than "high performance".
Creed McTaggart might be the obvious WA candidate based on the variety of boards in his quiver, but he's way more Catts/Ozzie Wright than Al Knost.
Of course, we're a long way removed from the East Coast though. Have a feeling on certain beaches there it's clearly a much bigger issue.
It might be going a bit further than that, Freeride. I was reading a piece by a female, adult, Californian, learner surfer. She said she wanted to move from the shore break but frustratingly looked out at the crowded main breaks and couldn't see a spot for her. But after some weeks of envious staring, she noticed something. Most of the people out there were not trying to catch waves, but were just hanging out. She grabbed her board and found there was actually space for her and she was getting waves.
Interesting, I thought. I haven't noticed that happening here, though I do often paddle out with low expectations.
Whilst your waiting for the " available data " to be collated, you should go for a surf at Manly, Ulu's , Keramas, snapper or Margies. Even Lances right has a resident selection of surf school graduates learning the ropes over the surgeons table.
Your theory may hold some water in a purely domestic context but it's not even close to the truth on a world wide scale. And surfers don't respect borders when it comes to chasing waves.
Well I've surfed 3 of them in the last 4 months - Ulus (two trips), Keramas and Margarets (I live in WA - do you mean Rivermouth or Redgate? No surf school at Mains) - and didn't see a single surf school at any of them on any of those trips.
You might be right mate, or I might be. Right now, we hold conflicting opinions but that's all they are - opinions. Difficult to make a definitive argument based solely on conjecture.
It'd actually be easy to make the same judgement on a global level - global population has increased by 2.5bn people since 1980, you'd expect a few of them to surf? Even allowing for the fact that most of that growth has come from developing nations.
Also, if you want to paint a global picture I'd also overlay things like the vastly lower real cost of travel over the last 3 decades. A Sydney to London airfare in 1975 was $2300 in 1975 on my brief search; an average annual salary then was $8,000. Sticker price today is about the same when the salary number is north of $60k. That's a vast change in the real cost of travel ... so again, are surf schools to blame for crowded Indo lineups, or the fact that just about everyone can afford to fly there? And does.
Way too narrow to apportion all the blame for more crowded lineups to surf schools, nothing is ever that simple if you want to talk world wide scale. And no, I don't own or operate a surf school for the record ...
Cheers
. Virtually every recent beginner attends a school first these days, then it's into the wider world. So most of the novice/ intermediates are graduates. They don't remain tethered to Redgate, it's off into the wild blue yonder to increase crowds everywhere.
You know all those European surfers you shared the line up with at Ulu's , Keramas and WA - surf school graduates to a man ( or woman ) .
Would they have become surfers without the comfort zone and ease of access to knowledge that a surf school provides ? I'm saying it's highly unlikely.
No empirical evidence available except for the fact that at any given time Bali is swarming with thousands of learners.
From there we took a quick run over to Serangan beach. Arriving shortly after 8.15AM to find some ok fun little let and rights in the 2-2ft+ range with an off shore wind. There were actually a couple of head high freak sets. So it was looking more positive now and the boys were out there for a paddle. There were under 20 surfers in the water up till this point in time, then by 9.00AM there must have been 10 or more surf schools rock up and seemingly all hit the main surf area at once, turning it to mayhem. Baliwaves 6-8th dec.
Still not sure we're on the same page in terms of cause and effect.
My argument is more about what's driving the increase in surf schools? They're just a symptom (or effect), and if you look beyond that you'll find larger forces (causes) at play - population growth, urban expansion in Aus cities along the coast, increased disposable incomes, development of the Bukit etc etc.
This only adds to the generational effect - only now are surfing's founding fathers beginning to pass away. Just about everyone else that's ever started surfing is still doing it! That argument didn't apply a couple decades ago because there was only 1 or 2 surfing 'generations' in the water - now we're at 3 or 4.
Surf schools bookings don't appear out of thin air - they're a function of demand, not the cause. Of course they facilitate an easier entry to lineups and will speed up crowd growth in certain areas, but it's wrong to lay all the blame at their doors.
Yeah, I hear you on that one MickJ.
Waves aren't really suitable for the whole hipster shebang in WA.
It's definitely an East Coast/America/Bali/Euro/UK thing though.
I think the standard of surfing is going backwards at a lot of places for a variety of reasons with "islands of exception" like WA, and a few spots on the East Coast.
Most places, the sheer weight of adult beginner/intermediates is dragging the standard way down.
And there's so many more cool things for kids to be involved with nowadays then to be out there floating around with Dad and his mates.
Great article. The last paragraph puts it all into perspective.
So if I'm riding a board with greater volume (greater volume than what I may ask?) does that make me a hipster? If so should all surfers actually be aspiring to ride the lowest possible volumes & be the most radical surfer in the line up? Otherwise your not a true surfer? That's what it's sounding like to me. I've always considered the pursuit of surfing to be whatever takes your fancy. Abide by the laws of surfing & the laws of being a good person & the rest is a bonus. Maybe im missing the point. BTW as I stated above as long what people are doing is not harming others, not wearing legropes is dangerous & disrespectful of others in the line up.
Cheers
Don't think you'll actually quote me as saying volume = hipster anywhere mate?
I said longer/heavier/less maneuverable as the broad catch all definitions of hipster craft, never mentioned volume aside from the paddling advantages inherent to certain of these boards ... but I didn't attach any mutual exclusivity to that.
Pros aside, there's relatively little performance disadvantage to the rest of us by increasing volume ... hence why short boards have moved up the volume curve recently. But there is to riding a low rocker 7'6 single fin if you want to go up and down the pocket for example.
As per my earlier email though mate, if your gig is to go out, catch lots of waves and cruise then I have no problem with that. All I said was that's not what gets me out of bed in the morning.
Cheers
No my gig isn't going out catching lots of waves, just my fair share. I don't ride higher volume boards to catch more waves, I do it to have more fun.....
"I said longer/heavier/less maneuverable as the broad catch all definitions of hipster craft, never mentioned volume aside from the paddling advantages inherent to certain of these boards ... but I didn't attach any mutual exclusivity to that."
Hey Mick, these longer heavier less maneuverable boards have been around a lot longer than this current "Hipster" phase would you agree? So do we know exactly what the term as it is currently being reffered to as actually means? And do we know who coined it?? Just curious for your definition or the definition.
Cheers
Good question, and I don't have the answers on accepted definition nor genesis of the term.
There will be several criteria I assume but on the question of boards specifically I would say that its a choice to ride boards that were either made pre thruster, or are modern interpretations (incl new materials) of pre thruster designs.
No doubt there will be scores of Swellnetters who will disagree with that definition, and I'll leave the questions on clothing/ethos/beards to others, but that's my version of events.
I'd liken it to people who choose to drive old Falcons (for example), they are unquestionably poorer 'performers' in terms of safety, economy, speed, comfort etc to modern versions of the car. If that's your choice then fine, it just doesn't work for me.
Thanks Mick, fair answer.
Cheers
Cheers mate - ditto
You mean anything and everything surf doesn't suck?
Why, even the negative people....
Good stuff, MickJ.