Large erosion expected on NSW beaches

Stu Nettle picture
Stu Nettle (stunet)
Surfpolitik

High tide in Sydney is at 9pm sharp tonight. Tomorrow night it's fifty minutes later. During both instances the tide peaks at approximately two metres making them among the largest high tides of the year. Those tidal peaks combined with the forecast large south-east swell are set to buffet any exposed beach vulnerable to erosion.

In Sydney Cronulla and Collaroy/South Narrabeen are open to the south-east and both are prone to erosion. Last year construction work at the Prince Street wall at Cronulla was finished to bolster the foundations that had been undermined by continual erosion. At present it's surrounded by a large bed of sand offering protection.

At Collaroy the risk is private property being lost to sand erosion. Fortunately, like Cronulla the properties at risk currently have a large sand buffer. Ongoing remedial works by Warringah and Pittwater Councils have the beach in the best shape for a decade. It's well prepared to cope with the expected barrage.

Wamberal and Norah Head, both on the NSW Central Coast, are places that have experienced terrible erosion in the past. Cabbage Tree Bay at Norah Head in particular had problems recently though a structure was built at the base of the cliffs last year. This event will be its first decent test.

On the mid north coast, a multi purpose reef has been proposed at Old Bar near Taree. The solution was devised after three homes were lost at Old Bar in 2008. If built the reef would be constructed offshore to mitigate wave energy and halt erosion on the shoreline. At present the coastline remains vulnerable.

Further up the coast Byron Council has a planned retreat strategy in place for threatened homes at Belongil Spit. The council wont aide property owners during storm events but it will allow them to reinforce their own properties as long as any materials are removed at the owners expense after the event. Fortunately for them the swell isn't well aligned for Byron and will be significantly smaller than the southern NSW coast.

The NSW east coast has had six months of below average swell activity with a noticeable absence of large swell events. This has provided surplus supply of sand at many vulnerable spots and will offer good protection during this event. The bad news is that the long range forecast charts are predicting another large swell in a weeks time. If that swell were to materialise then it will be a very different situation. The sand lost during tonight and tomorrow night will leave beaches at a far greater risk of erosion.

Comments

rat-race's picture
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rat-race Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:11pm

But more importantly, what is the swell doing in FIJI? I can't find any reference to a swell forecast on the wolcom vebsite.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:16pm

Plenty of discussion in the "Large Swells Loom for Volcom Fiji Pro" article. In short, lay days expected tomorrow and Thursday ahead of a large long period swell building Friday, easing slowly Saturday. Probable that they'll run the comp at Restaurants for at least one of these days. http://www.swellnet.com.au/news/2976-large-swells-loom-for-volcom-fiji-pro

alakaboo's picture
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alakaboo Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:16pm

Hey Stu
Collaroy is in the Warringah council area...

As for Cronulla, is this the end of the sand plug experiment?

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:24pm

G'Day 'Boo,

I guess the remedial work is a combination of both councils. While you're correct that Collaroy is in Warringah Council it's Pittwater Council that did the dredging at Narrabeen Lagoon entrance. The sand removed ended there up on the beach at Collaroy (and was what I was referring to). I think Warringah Council does its bit by ensuring sand from any construction or development on the Narrabeen Peninsula gets dumped on the beach.

As for Cronulla: the dredge got held up on the Gold Coast fortunately. The ol' slug would've shrivelled pretty damn quickly in the forecast conditions. I believe the new date is mid-June.

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:29pm

Stu, I'd be interested to see before and after photo's of the Collaroy/ Narra stretch of sand. I remember numerous times as a young fella watching them dredge and truck sand from the lagoon and dump it on that stretch. The council would be all proud of their acheivements only to see the next weather/swell event wash it all away again.

So if the lagoon entrance isn't already blocked, I'll bet it will be after this.

I could be wrong, but my understanding and observations where that it had to do with long shore drift? Summer northerly swell and wind replenished that end with the sand and winter took it all away up to Northy.

Which makes me wonder why Pitwater council would have anything to do with it. Sounds petty I know, but my memory is that their border is north of the lagoon.

Hope you all score some nice waves down that way. BTW loved the WOD photos today.

rat-race's picture
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rat-race Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:38pm

Thanks Ben.
It's strange that there is no reference to it on the webpage for the comp.
Also, I saw that article last week but thought you might have released a freshy by now. Didn't go through the 60 odd comments as i have lots of work on.

Which reminds me..

I'd better go do something else...

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:41pm

Further research: The dredging at Narrabeen is a joint effort by both Pittwater Council and Warringah Council. The lagoon entrance is on the border. I'd been reading Pittwater Council documents stating it was their works.

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:42pm

Yeah, we planned on writing an updated article today but the ECL's been somewhat of a distraction. In any case the swell is still on track for Fiji which is great news for the event. Surfline are the 'official' forecasters but they usually provide some data for the event websites - not sure why it's not there this time.

As for this impending erosion event in NSW.. Stu took some pics at Manly last night, and the high tide mark was already up past the volleyball courts. And that was with a comparatively small swell. Will be interesting to see what happens tonight and tomorrow.

alakaboo's picture
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alakaboo Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:44pm

Stu, and Fitzroy

Warringah and Pittwater work together on the entrance management, State Govt pays for 2/3rds and they pay a 1/3rd each. It's largely done for flood mitigation, which is why others pay, the beach width is a bonus. You're right on the construction sand.

For before and after shots, check out the camera mounted on the top of Flight Deck.
http://ci.wrl.unsw.edu.au/public/narrabn/

Mitch Harley has done an animation of the last really big event along the stretch, it's on youtube.

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:46pm

Bom are forecasting from 4M to 7M swell for the Syd to Hunter region Wed...... is going to be interesting.

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:49pm

Thanks for those links alakaboo

top-to-bottom-bells's picture
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top-to-bottom-bells Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:51pm

"Warringah and Pittwater work together on the entrance management, State Govt pays for 2/3rds and they pay a 1/3rd each"

Has this breakdown of costs been independently audited??

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 3:53pm

Cheers 'Boo.

sidthefish's picture
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sidthefish Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 7:00pm

anyone care to speculate how Kingscliff is likely to fare ?

already massive erosion probs there.

Will swell max out on Tweed coast too ?

patty's picture
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patty Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 7:24pm

Same as belongil. Wrong swell direction. North-east is the sand killer at Kingscliff.

Craig's picture
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Craig Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 7:28pm

Looks like most of the ECL's energy will be expelled across the southern and northern NSW region Sid, with a much weaker system pushing up into SE Qld.

So not a massive swell expected across the Tweed, but still probably enough to cause some form of erosion. And which side of Kingscliff are you referring, if it's the north-eastern side it should fair OK with the point blocking a fair bit of swell energy.

no-eye-deer's picture
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no-eye-deer Tuesday, 5 Jun 2012 at 9:13pm

@sidthefish

Kingscliff currently has quite a bit of sand built up from the breakwall right down to the front of the surf club. Along with the recent building of a retaining wall from out the front of the caravan park to join up with the old wall in front of the bowls club things should be ok. Its definately a much better situation than back in Jan/Feb.

And as Patty said the swell direction in this particular instance wont cause too many problems. Further north where its open to more of the SE swell might be a bit different, but there is no risk to property up there.

It might ruin a couple of decent banks though.

sidthefish's picture
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sidthefish Wednesday, 6 Jun 2012 at 6:14am

yeah, figured it would be heaps south.

Don't get back up home way much these days. Kingy was chewed out real bad last time I drifted north.

Looks like Wommin and Faggotini's will cop it .

stunet's picture
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stunet Wednesday, 6 Jun 2012 at 11:48am

The foundations of the Cronulla wall have been exposed although I think it fared pretty well overnight as there's still plenty of sand around the northern end. Up the beach it's obvious that last night's high tide made it to the fenceline yet it hasn't created a 'drop off' at any point along the beach. Everywhere there has been protected by the surplus of sand.

While driving down to Cronulla this morning I heard that erosion damage was being reported on the Northern Beaches but I think the report was dubious. The swell hit after dark last night and the news update I heard was well before first light. Who's going looking for sand erosion in the middle of the night?

Anyone got any reports from Collaroy or other places?

rat-race's picture
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rat-race Wednesday, 6 Jun 2012 at 12:59pm

Thanks Ben.

Craig's picture
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Craig Friday, 8 Jun 2012 at 2:34pm

It's not looking too good for the locations that already took a battering earlier this week and also those more susceptible to easterly swells as we've got another East Coast Low developing late in the weekend.

This ECL looks to stall somewhere off the Northern NSW / South East Qld coast during Monday kicking up a larger and damaging easterly swell that will persist for a couple of days at least.

There's been reports of erosion at Yamba and Old Bar already and this looks to be even worse. Southern NSW will fair much better due to the ECL staying north.

sandspit's picture
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sandspit Sunday, 10 Jun 2012 at 8:43am

This next swell looks nuts for the Goldy more like late summer or early autumn!

tonedef's picture
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tonedef Sunday, 10 Jun 2012 at 5:36pm

Bar Beach to Dixon Park has been ripped apart exposing rocky shoreline. Heavy erosion

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Monday, 11 Jun 2012 at 5:43pm

Narrabeen suffered some impressive erosion last week - there's a 2-3m escarpment on the primary dune from North Narrabeen to at least midway along towards South Narrabeen (haven't checked that end of the beach yet). If we see another significant swell event in the next few weeks the damage will be considerable at many locations.

dang-boy's picture
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dang-boy Monday, 11 Jun 2012 at 9:30pm

Wamberal photo is from Sygna Storm May 1974. Walked there from Avoca. Avoca lost houses, telpgraph poles and paddle boats/canoes from lake. Have been measuring sand movement at local since 1997 - sand comes and sand goes but sand dunes remain the same. Looks bad at first then mother nature flattens it out again for summer !! It is all cyclic relax.......

z-man's picture
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z-man Monday, 11 Jun 2012 at 9:47pm

Reminds me of many parts of CA.,OR.,WA., - Homes,roads, etc., built too close become vulnerable.
The never-ending desire to witness the 'green flash' from the comfort of your 'Lazy-Boy' recliner won't allow any beach erosion to get in the way of their view!!! (until...)

A Sunset/Sunrise Spectacle: The Green Flash

Myth or Reality?
The "green flash" is the encore to Mother Nature's spectacular sunset/sunrise lightshow. Myths, legends and disputes about its existence are many, but there is no doubt the green flash is real. There is also no doubt that the flash sometimes is not green.

Craig's picture
Craig's picture
Craig Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 6:02am

The Green Flash is a reality Z-man, but unfortunately I've never seen or witnessed it.

Are there some special circumstances where it is more prevalent, has anyone seen it and like to shed some 'light' on their experiences?

the_b's picture
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the_b Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 6:26am

A chunk of the grassed area between the public and club ramps got taken out at Norah Head, but the new toe rock protection seems to have held out

z-man's picture
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z-man Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 1:31pm

I'm somewhat of a 'hack' photographer craig, and I have spent more than a few hours attempting to witness/capture a 'Green-Flash'. I have a couple of friends that swear they've witnessed one. I can't recall any multi-witnessing testimonies but there must be. It makes sense to me!?!?

I'll keep after it in Bali and the Ments coming up and if I get lucky I'm pretty sure Time magazine will pay for the photo/s!?!?

It should be on the cover of some Surf mag/rag by now - wouldn't you think? Kinda like Nirvana? Photoshop it over some incredible tube crackin' !!!

Hell - the real thing would be a gold mine.

It could possibly open some other doors besides those open door caverns I'm hoping to find!

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 1:47pm

I've seen the green flash a couple of times while in Perth. Not sure of the scientific basis but thought it was light rays splitting as they travel through the atmosphere. But then you'd think it would be a colour at either end of the spectrum - red or violet - not green?

z-man's picture
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z-man Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 2:18pm

Far be it from me to explain, but the best attempt I've heard was the refraction of the sun's rays as they pass thru the ocean sends out a green light/'flash'.

I've yet to witness one, and I've watched untold amounts!

You have two stu? Lucky you!

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 2:32pm

I've got friends in Perth who, at least in the summertime, make sure they've got their arse parked in a barstool and their hand wrapped around a cold beer when the green flash appears.

Plenty of pubs overlooking the ocean in Perth.

reecen's picture
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reecen Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 3:08pm

Mermaids serve you beers and Unicorns wait tables at pubs in Perth while you watch out for green flashes.

stunet's picture
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stunet Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 3:48pm

Perth: where the absinthe isn't the only thing green.

z-man's picture
z-man's picture
z-man Tuesday, 12 Jun 2012 at 8:08pm

We've got 'Hooters' pubs here stateside; guess I'll have to visit Blooter's Pub in Perth where the 'Green Flash' is actually a rainbow effect?

z-man's picture
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z-man Wednesday, 13 Jun 2012 at 12:45am

Try this site for a few shots of the green flash;

http://www.google.com/search?q=photo+of+the+'green+flash'&hl=en&client=safari&rls=en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=plXXT-LUMsq-2gXay_izDw&ved=0CF0QsAQ&biw=1026&bih=731

sidthefish's picture
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sidthefish Wednesday, 13 Jun 2012 at 5:14pm

cool, are they related to min min lights ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Min_Min_Lights

andrew-pitt's picture
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andrew-pitt Wednesday, 20 Jun 2012 at 11:09pm

i note Surfrider Foundation now lists North Narrabeen as an Endangered Wave http://www.surfrider.org.au/campaigns/endangered-waves/1-north-narrabeen... the dune restoration has been too successful.
Great story here, please Stu. Terry Fitzgerald and local surfers are asking for the dune to be re-profiled, though have a battle on their hands with Warringah Council, who plan to re-do the beach side park to a land lubbers agenda, public comment ends 13 July, see here http://yoursaywarringah.com.au/northnarramasterplan?module=news

fitzroy-21's picture
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fitzroy-21 Thursday, 21 Jun 2012 at 11:34am

Well surprise, surprise. I gave up arguing with council and enviromentalists years ago and have posted here on this issue before. I'm not a scientist or accedemic, but the lagoon is a key player in this. The top end is now a shallow bog that stinks and the entrance through to Pittwater road is silted up. Small volume of water movement with tide equals block entrance. Blocked entrance equals no groomed bank that gave NN its famed shape which also would help reduce the waves blocking the entrance.
Meanwhile, whilst everyone is arguing, over the decades it just keeps getting worse and more expensive. So they now just look at band aids.

stunet's picture
stunet's picture
stunet Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 10:25am

Residents at Old Bar seek own solution to erosion: http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/yards-swallowed-by-coastal-erosion-20130630-2p...

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 2:09pm

Poor old fella losing his wife's ashes to the ocean!

She is now one with nature. That is why they lived there in the first place.

I think the old girl would now be happier floating around in the sea.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 2:42pm

Let the ocean take it's realm, inevitable it will be!! Those who dwell nearby, expect the consequences, man should not interfere or try to delude the path...
For what purpose should man try to compete with the one all mighty... bad luck to those who think their 'whare' is immortal to nature's tidal strength, it has no remorse! Living in the hills is the most common sense thing man can do, especially when you can still view the thunder of waves and mother nature at her glory from a short distance...
Let the houses be taken in to the sea...
Then we have an artificial reef and no-one pays for it.

Let mother nature do its course

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 2:50pm

My beautiful wife wrote the last post,

Good common sense don't you think?

At one with nature!

stunet's picture
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stunet Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 3:19pm

Love it Welly! Or Mrs Welly, as it is.

The tricky bit comes in when you realise some people moved to those properties before our knowledge of coastal processes was as advanced as it is now. If they were allowed to live there, i.e the local council deemed them safe, then who is liable?

All well and good to say 'let the ocean reclaim what's hers' - I tend to think the same - but putting the blame and cost solely on the current property owner is a tad unfair.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 5:57pm

Hello, Mrs Welly here! :)
Thank you for your reply Stu, I feel deeply about this subject and do respect and understand your feedback!
As you may now be aware, I am a nature freak and solely believe and respect the qualities of all the natural occurrences our planet delivers.
The lack of common sense in humans is a retardation of our own existence!
Just because someone says you can build your nest in a location, deemed safe or unsafe, do you put all your trust in that, or do you use your own initiative to investigate further to decide the most common sense thing to do for your future dwelling within that nest for you and your family??
I do not believe anyone should be liable except for those who make the ultimate decision in any case!!
Perhaps the decision can be helped through appropriate insurances. (i.e. coastal erosion?? does it exist?)
The council will sell any land to anyone who will pay the rates, it's as simple as that! Of course there are clauses, but at the end of the day, especially here on the Gold Coast, the council will milk society for all they can get!
This issue is no different to those who decide to live in the bush. Mother Nature can easily strike those down with fires and trees falling, yet the council still approves of their dwelling. Who helps to pay for that? Luckily there is insurance for these consequences, yet those who choose to live there are aware immediately by simply observing their surroundings.
I believe all people should bring themselves back to basics and look at the 'Big Picture' of their vulnerability to life itself, and decide smartly how and where they should live, without blaming anyone, we are the creators of our own destination!!

stunet's picture
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stunet Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 6:14pm

Hello Mrs Welly!

I think I'm on the same side of the divide as yourself, have a profound respect for nature and deeply suspicious of people who would - at least in this day and age - build a house on a foredune then wonder why they lose half their backyard the following winter.

I've spoken to a few people on the mid north coast whose properties are threatened, some who've been there many, many years and who, I would think, also have a deep respect for nature. However, they built at a time when the coastline in question was very different to how it is now and our understanding of coastal processes was also very different. Modern environmentalism is just that - modern. And I personally find it hard to condemn people using today's thinking when they acted - often with the very best of intentions - on yesterday's knowledge. I think some sort of compensation for those people would be just.

But that's not to say all people with coastal properties are in the same boat; the cashed up newcomer who builds a McMansion on the beach then expects the council to pony up the erosion mitigation costs can disappear into the sea for all I care.

wellymon's picture
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wellymon Monday, 1 Jul 2013 at 8:14pm

Hello Stu, thank you for your response, Mrs Welly here...
I do so understand the current situation of many homeowners along the coast, especially those who have been there for a long time. I have had family who have been coastline dwellers, but have since moved on due to the inevitable, however, some do not have the opportunity or foresight.
Perhaps due to my family being seafaring people, my thoughts and opinions may be biased towards this thread. I hate the thought of anyone losing their home to any of nature's occurrences, but if it can be prevented for the sake of the family's well being, I believe it should be addressed, no matter what!
My grandad bought land on the Sunshine Coast back in the late 60's. He purposely bought 2 streets away from the tidal edge, fearing the tidal high one day! A seafaring man he was, common sense he instilled in us all from the tides, climate, storms of all kinds did he follow, and taught us to acknowledge the forces of nature, For me, a long time ago, I have learnt not to intervene with natures fury, instead to acknowledge and use our own discretion to live in harmony amongst it.
Nature changes daily and is in fact, cyclonic. My grandfather predicted many meteorological changes in his future, and many have happened, I know only one thing, and that is, 'do not predict the future weather pattern, as it can change before we know it, Mother Nature has many tricks,' 'that statement comes from my grandad,
no matter who we are or where we are, 'respect' for what is should be!

thermalben's picture
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thermalben Tuesday, 2 Jul 2013 at 2:43pm

Been a couple of decent sand-churning swells on the Narrabeen stretch of late, will be interesting to see if it holds up through the rest of the winter months.