Reforms on the Reef: Fiji's Surfing Utopia
Fiji has been spinning very close to the centre of the surfing universe following recent events. First was the news that Fiji's reefs would be opened up to everyone, then a Titanic swell hit that was broadcast around the world, and now news has arrived that Fiji will likely host an international surfing event very soon.
It's exciting times for the island nation and I spoke to a fellow that has had a hand in all the on-land developments: Ian Muller.
Swellnet: Do I call you Ian or Kini? Ian 'Kini' Muller: You can call me Kini or whatever you feel like. Kini is my name when I go to the village and Ian is just a generic name.
I'll call you Kini then. No worries.
OK, I've heard reports that Fiji may be hosting an international-level competition soon? Yeah, we're working with the ASP and Surfing Australia to bring back a WCT, or even a WQS competition to Fiji. It would be great, first of all to send a message to the world that our waves are open, and secondly, to encourage our local surfing community. We'd like to bring back something that we are very proud of.
Do you know if it will be a 'CT or 'QS yet? We're not too sure. We're just looking at what our local economy and our local sponsors can afford at this stage.
What about Globe, they had a longstanding involvement in Fijian competition? Yeah, I'm not too sure. We haven't spoken to Globe at all. We've left it up to Andrew (Stark, CEO of Surfing Australia) and those guys to see what is the best for the competition. If we can get an international sponsor it would be good, but we also want to work with as many local companies as possible so the spin-offs come back to the country.
The minister responsible for tourism, who helped us open up our waves, is very excited about an event so he's talking to various stakeholders like Air Pacific, our national airline, and other locally-owned companies to see if they'll come forward with a little bit of sponsorship for this event.
Will it be at Cloudbreak? Definetely. Between there and Restaurants. Just as it's been done before. Logistically it's the best venue.
It was a popular event. The Top 44 voted Fiji as their number one event on tour a couple of years in a row, so we'd like to bring that back and get surfers in the Fijian rhythm again. We're really excited too, it's good for our country and for our surfers to bring them up on standard and give them a little more recognition and exposure. We want it so everybody can win, where as before it was only Tavarua and Namotu that won.
You're heavily involved in the Fijian Surf Company, can you tell us a bit about that? Fijian Surf were the first local surf company established. We're trying to move surfing forward in our country by developing our people and developing our economy, and using our resources to get a good economic return from them. We're trying to help people so that everything kind of stays within Fiji rather than going outside.
There are companies that come to Fiji and do great jobs of establishing themselves here but eventually everything starts to flow outside the country. We're about trying to make sure it stays in the country. That's also what this government is about - encouraging more local companies to step up and do it ourselves.
You mentioned the government, what is your take on the political developments in Fiji, specifically the Reef Liberalisation decree? We were very much involved in that. We'd been really trying hard - that is the Fiji Surfing Association, the local body here - to open the waves up fairly for everybody. Not only for the resorts out there but for the local surfers also. We weren't allowed to surf our own waves! It was like you not able to surf waves in your country.
Surfing here...it's not about having an exclusive club. It's about sharing the waves and that's the real spirit of surfing. Not hordeing them and keeping them under wraps for your own exclusive little club. And that's what was happening out there.
What about the tribes that used to benefit from the payments from Tavarua? How have they reacted? Well, as I said before, the government is making our people step up, look at our resources, and do something about it. And they are making it possible to turn that into some sort of economic benefit for everyone instead of a few people just sitting down and collecting money like they were doing before. They were not really helping themselves. None of them trained up as chefs, as accountants, as managers. They did not help themselves.
Our people were always marginalised and their [Tavarua and Namotu] money could have been put to better use by giving our people proper schooling. OK, they built some homes, but if they didn't build the homes they wouldn't have their exclusive licenses. They didn't do that out of goodwill, they did it out of necessity.
It was all earlier corruption and bribery that put these licenses together and gave people the rights to the reef. Nobody owns the reef. It's owned by the state.
Are you concerned about the media situation, such as the changes forced upon the Fiji Times?(News Ltd were recently forced to sell the Fiji Times following new legislation banning foreign media ownership) Well, the Fiji Times wasn't closed down, the changes were basically to localise it more, which is what this government is trying to do across the board. It's fair enough, because in your country you wouldn't want someone from outside coming in and taking over most of your businesses and taking money out of your country.
Fiji has a history of coups, do you believe that the political situation is stable? It's probably the best state we've ever had our country in. By far. We've never had such an empowerment of the people, such a positive movement forward. We feel very fortunate that we have a bright future.
Previously the richer people benefitted more but this government is about trying to help the poorer people. It's about opening up businesses, not trying to capitalise on certain monopolies and so forth. One example of that was the surf decree. It's more competitive now and it's opened things up for other busineses to get established.
We're making things happen. When the shit hits the fan in this country the first people to leave are the expatriates and the people who have come here to capitalise on what we have. But, at the end of the day, it's us locals that bring our country back to normalcy. And then these guys start flocking in and claiming it for themselves. I've seen it over and over, many times.
Whats going on are reforms to make sure that those corrupt practices don't happen in the future. And, first and foremost, make it easier for the locals to benefit. We welcome international intervention and support and investment, but at the end of the day you've got to put yourself in our shoes and imagine if we came to your country and did it to you guys. In that respect you can have a better understanding of things.
Can we talk about the surf for a moment? Sure.
So how were the waves on Monday? Oh man! Have you seen the footage yet? I look after Red Bull here and Ian Walsh came in and I had the ski ready for him. And he killed it man with some of the waves out there and I'm stoked. You know, this is what its all about. It's a very exciting time for me to see all this go down.
Are there waves out on the reefs today? Yeah, mostly everything is working, Cloudbreak, Restaurants...they're all really good.
And it looks like you guys are in for waves for the next five days. Yeah, that's right. There's a new swell coming on Friday. I'll be up for that. I'm not one of those big wave chargers, I know my limitations. I'm more about quality and not quantity these days [laughs]. You know I really just go out to enjoy myself.
Well I hope you enjoy yourself out there Kini. Nice talking to you.
Comments
Finally, a word from the locals perspective.
Awesome article Stu.
Seems the chicken little's proclaiming chaos would descend were merely puppets trying to defend American imperialism.
Nobody owns the waves, but local people should be able to benefit from them as their birthright and renewable resource.
As we've seen Cloudbreak will regulate itself.
For a guy who professes to to Pro-Fijian, Ian seems to think it's great to censor the people and strip away rights that have actually protected indigenous Fijians for years. Could it be because the surfing decree is now lining his pockets? Who's greedy now?
I don't live in Fiji, and admit when I read through some of Ians' comments, thought he was toeing the current governments line. I did nod at Ians assessments though that moneys made should be put back into helping better the locals lot.
But does wholetruth live in Fiji? He could elaborate on the finer points of 'rights being stripped away that have protected the locals' rather than thinking it must be so.
The post by Wholetruth reeks of secret motives. Unless, as Eddie has stated above, you elaborate on the 'censoring' and the 'rights' you will merely be regarded as a stool pigeon for the former powerbrokers of Momi Bay. Why else would you advocate AGAINST changes that improve the Fijian situation?
i agree..secret motives indeed. as a fijian and a good friend of the indigeonous peoples of tavarua and namotu, i have to say that i have yet to see their talents and potential as some of the best watermen around being developed and utilised as it should be. instead they are simply kept as boatmen and beachboys while overseas lifeguards are brought in to do a job that would definately empower the local boys more..and help their families. Condescending?? i think so.
Power to the people.
I just returned last night from a week in Fiji. Got some solid waves at cloudbreak with thanks to Ian and the fijisurfco.com guys. Having been there throughout this swell I need to make a few comments about the significance of the decree.
1. Prior to the decree, the waves of the Mamanucas were the most underutilised resource in Fiji. A bunch of world-class waves were not being ridden much because of the exclusivity deal with Tavarua and Namotu.
2. There is not many options n fiji during dry season conditions. Strong trade winds push up lumpy E windswells that ruin all South facing waves. The Easterly cross swells shut down the sections on all the rights (eg Hideaway, Shangri La, Wilkes)rendering them unrideable. The South Facing lefts like Namotu are side-on shore and crap. Only the SW facing lefts Cloudbreak and Restaurants are rideable as the are offshore in the tradewinds. The decree is so important to Fiji surfers because imagine the only waves for two hours in any direction were off limits to locals and visitors alike!
3. It is not crowded. Despite the global awareness of this swell, there was an average of only a dozen in the water the whole time. This is nothing on a wave that covers football fields of area like Cloudy's.
4. The entire tourism industry will benefit from the dispersal of surfers. This will help small locally owned businesses develop like Ian's FijiSurfCo. It allows many different options from backpacker level through to 5 star. Family holidays to boat charters.
5. I have surfed in Fiji through 3 different coup related governments. However This is the only time I have seen significant economic activity. There is new building, new businesses opening. many people seem to be getting on with life pretty well.
6. Despite the lack of accountability, in tribal society democracy often descends in to the biggest tribe grabbing everything and excluding all others (eg: PNG, most African democracies). Despite our distaste for dictatorships, it is possible that a well intentioned dictatorship can offer greater equality than democracy. (So long as they dont stay too long and do a Mugabe).
Secret Motives? Someone has to say it out loud. Isn't censoring the press and defining the content that can be published or broadcast a repeal of rights? How about the new decree that defines what a Fijian woman can wear in a village? How about the fact that reef and land rights that were divided and given to true Fijians ages ago are now in question via decrees passed by this government? Anyone who really wants proof can find it. Many are turning a blind eye to surf amazing waves and not have to pay a penny others to make a buck.
I surfed Cloudbreak last week and I know some of the local Tavarua and Namotu staff as well. Did you know that the Tavarua and Namotu local boys were paid to go through a 14 day training as international lifeguards and were certified? I bet the guy who almost died at Restaurants appreciated his Fijan lifeguard. Like it or not, Tavarua brought surfing legitimately to Fiji and has marketed surfing in Fiji for decades. They have poured loads of tourist money into the country not only through the island, but the local vendors they do business with. Would YOU be brave enough to invest in Fiji under the current circumstances?
I don't really care about the decree. It's all a disguise. One person's greed just turned into another's. Ian acts as if he's there for the people but he is benefiting financially in a HUGE way. I just hope he can contribute the buildings, scholarships, and medical care too. Like it or not, the bar has been set high, and those tourists used to come back every year. Can he promise that? I'm not sure. I surfed Cloudbreak when it WAS crowded. Amazing yes, but I'm not sure the travelers would come back annually for that situation.
In truth, the biggest bummer is that "city" Fijians are critics of their own people because they had good jobs that took care of them and their families. They should have a little more respect for their brothers and sisters that still live a traditional village lifestyle. Not all Fijians want to turn into something else. Greed has destroyed so many other nations in the world. I hope Fiji can pull out of this. It's about alot more than surfing.
Native corruption, imperial corruption. Might sound silly, and more than a bit cynical, but if that's the choice I'll take the former. However it's presented the people have a right to autonomy and to clear the colonial shackles.
I'm wishing the Fijian people well through this period.
Politics aside.. Tavarua and namotu was just the tip of the iceberg. They set the precedence for other places all over fiji. Being chased out of the water because the surf spot apparently belonged to some resort down the road. Its bullshit. Its the actions of individuals that change the world, not governments. And for the few who have been pushing to curb the double standard for years so that i can finally paddle out in my own country.. BRAVO!
And wholetruth.., "city fijians, traditional fijians??" we are one people bro. Our culture unites us. Regardless of where we live, the tradition of sharing undelies everything we do. If Tavarua and Namotu had believed that, i'd have been able to paddle out with my brothers a long time ago to cheer you in to those waves. As it stands now...i will be there to cheer you in.., there are just more people out there.
lalagas comments hold a bit more resonance than wholetruths' do I'm afraid.
What platform is wholetruth looking down from? Does he have the inside scoop on fijian culture and politics from his vacation time on the islands?
If, 'wholetruth', you have been 'censored' or personally had your 'rights been stripped away' or even been a potential investor in Fiji being scared away-'would YOU invest in Fiji?'- then your arguments may make more sense.
Until then, it sounds like a holidaymakers broad strokes for a better Fiji or a Tavarua press release.
i have never been to fiji however i have been to Indonesia plenty a time and i totally agree with lalagas comments. WE ARE ONE. on my last mission to indo (couple of weeks ago) i took a photo of a great saying or whatever you wanna call it...
IF WE ARE TO HAVE PEACE ON EARTH, OUR LOYALTIES MUST TRANSCEND OUR RACE, OUR TRIBE, OUR CLASS AND OUR NATIONS, AND THIS MEANS WE MUST DEVELOP A WORLD PERSPECTIVE. NO INDIVIDUAL CAN LIVE ALONE, AND AS LONG AS WE TRY, THE MORE WE ARE GOING TO HAVE WAR IN THE WORLD.
WE MUST EITHER LEARN TO LIVE TOGETHER AS BROTHERS OR WE ARE ALL GOING TO PERISH TOGETHER AS FOOLS.
ive seen it indo, the whole families support each other. A family of 30 (granmas, grandads, mums, dads, kids, cousins) all support each other. even if one of them kids is the only worker they will come home and support the whole family as one and the community as one. Us westerners are so greedy in our wants and needs it makes me sick. I hope fiji is going in the right direction and not just the powerful (money hungry) people of the land are benefiting and covering up the truths.