Here Comes Nobody
Stuart Nettle May 24, 2010
Lately I've spent a lot of time digging through my old surf magazines, and those of you tuning into The Rearview Mirror would've seen the results. It's a fun thing to do, to be reminded of what surfers used to wear, how they acted and what their values were. Like peering into a time capsule of whatever year the magazine was published, it's a historical snapshot.
Obviously there's a lot of things that have changed, yet the one thing that stood out was how much less protective we were of surfspots then than we are now.
It was a bit surprising really. Working at Swellnet, and running the photos and features on this site, I get regular correspondence from readers about what we should and shouldn't expose. The bottom line, and the one that I run with, is that no spot gets named unless it's obviously identifiable (Shark Island, Margs, Bells etc.). It doesn't matter if every surfer in Australia knows of it's whereabouts, it doesn't get named. I get reminded of this all the time.
Yet flicking through the old mags I've so far come across features on Voodoo, Blackfellas, Quarantines, LA, Potholes, Guillotines and many other 'sensitive' waves with absolutely no attempt to hide the locations. Those places (and others like them) are hardly secret spots yet these days just mentioning those names is likely to raise the ire of many readers.
The question that I have is this: why was it acceptable to name those spots back then, and not now? Websites such as ours have approximately the same readership as the major magazines had then, meaning the same number of eyes look at the shots, so, everything being equal, what has changed?
Here's a theory. It's a bit of a leap so stick with me...
There are a number of social studies, readily available on the net*, that have found fear of crime is increasing in society while the number of actual crimes have decreased. So, our fear levels are going up despite the world getting safer. The increased fear is irrational, it doesn't reflect reality.
The researchers suggest the reason for the increase is that people are more sensitive to the threat of crime due to media exposure. We see crimes reported on television, radio and the internet and it heightens our sense of fear. The media distorts the reality and makes us paranoid and protective.
Perhaps a similar dynamic is at work in surfing?
Perhaps us surfers also live in a kind of media-driven fear? We overestimate the power of the surf media to influence people and falsely believe that just by naming already popular surfspots yet more people will flock to them.
It's a very cynical, and even misanthropic view, to underestimate the ability of other people - but not yourself! - to make independent decisions. And to assume that people are automatons being led around by the surf media, leaving their own local spots to storm the waves they saw in a picture last week.
Perhaps, like the rest of society, media exposure is making us irrationally paranoid and needlessly protective? Because here's the rub: I know where these waves are. You know where these waves are. The media has named them in the past. So how will naming them now change anything?
PS: The picture on our homepage, showing six people dropping in on each other, was taken at Dee Why Point in 1962 (Photo: Ron Perrott)
*ActNow- A Climate of Fear NSW Recorded Crime Statistics Crime in the Community
Comments
the term 'shutting the gate after the horse has bolted' comes to mind.
Can't believe you named DY point, god its' gunna get crowded now.....
I vote you name everywhere always. Locals and localism suck, let's tell them to their faces. My local is Scamander by the way ... sorry no pictures to post but tourists are always welcome. Good article Stu!
Nameing breaks is usless unless you give directions on how to get there. I think it has to do with some sort of a re-discovery process. You know when high tide has washed all the foot prints off the beach, well I reckon some people then take the idea that there has never been footprints on that beach so it must be kept a secret, they walk around thinking that this place should be protected from over population, this is all going well and they are the first in the water for the day. Then all of a sudden surfers start to paddle out into their little utopia that they found all for themselves, then all of a sudden it dawns on them that they are in fucking Bondi.
We were less protective because there were fewer surfers and now we live in a very different time where surfers are much more mobile.
There are more eyes looking no doubt when I grew up there were two publications now with the advent of the electronic media age there are 100s
Forget your theory the dynamic doesn’t work for surfing,
Because you know where these waves are doesn’t negate the fact media exposure will focus peoples attention on an area if it didn’t why do places put so much money into advertising in order to attract tourists. They all know about the Great Barrier Reef but we market it so it is in there conscious.
I have watched with interest how the media influences surfing behavior take Nias for example the place came to light with Dick Hooles film Storm riders. It was on the map although surfer had been traveling there for years. It was Eric Ader epic photo of that glassy wave next to the sapian that got me there.
The Coke commercial saw another increase, as someone who went there ever year you could predict a surge depending on how much media exposure it had received the year before.
Jaws and Ship sterns are two classic examples of where media exposure have turned those spots into an absolute circus, It may not affect your local beach break but will and has affected those spots that are looking for the photo moment.
Naming them and shooting has changed everything because in the 60s & 70s we didn’t have the technology to be somewhere before the swell arrived, we didn’t have surfers who are chasing that photo moment with the vigor that they are today, many are paid just for that moment. At some spots surfers will fly from the other side of the world to be on it before the local guy.
Shooting and naming has changed everything, if you can’t see that you are more naïve that I thought
^^^^on the money roc-k.
From my personal experience with a couple of "secret spots" i was introduced to by locals in the mid 80's. The locals actually blind folded me on the way to keep its location safe. This spot I told no one, took only one mate who I could trust not to tell and over twenty years later we still surf this wave to ourselves and it is a damn good reef wave.
The other spot the locals took me to (no blindfold) when I was a grom is now crowded and even gets a run in surf mags now and then, guess someone spilled the beans on that wave.
Its word of mouth that brings the crowds as well, not just the media. If wave is that good someone is going to bangon about it at the pub/club and next thing you know there is carload of froffing punters ready to claim it.
Some waves have to spared from the masses IMO.
I with ya Stu...
I surfed Fiji a month ago...
Cloudbreak, Restaurants, Desperation...
All highly exposed, well known breaks...
Granted it wasn;t 10 or 12 foot... it was only a humble 6....
(Only... HA! Oh man.. it was barrellin, i was creaming)
but you know how many were out there on average?
3. 3 People!!! On one day it was only ME!!!!
Fair enough it's overseas in Fiji...
Fair enough it wasn't mosterous...
But it's true... I reckon we're just paranoid.
Tripper your proving the Point of Rock and Sunny.
Fiji has fallen off the radar with the loss of the WCT event there and the stitching up of the surfbreaks.
Ergo, crowding has become less of an issue.
There's a great mass of herd-like surfers who go where the media spotlight is pointed.
Do we need to look any further than the Mentawais to see this effect in action?
r-ock is right on to it.
no breaks should be named, there are alot more surfers around these days.
The media hypes up places and pidgeons flock there in droves wanting to be the next big thing, with there cameras and jetskis and what ever else they can bring.
look what happened with tow surfing they filmed guys towing into 30 foot plus waves where it is actually functional and now when ever its over six feet there are guys towing.
the media plays a massive part in surfing, it can be a good part, but when you start naming breaks and carrying on with hype it plays a bad part.which not many people like, except the people getting the warm air blown up there arse
dont forget that little fucker in everyones pocket as well, the mobile phone has a lot to answer for as well.
No mobiles would keep the numbers as well. Nothing worse than seeing your local going off and every wanker who enters the carpark instantly gets on their mobiles and start calling all their mates!
way back then stu, old mate, there were millions of spots and just a few surfers - now it's the other way around
Too simplistic Pete...
Let's say, hypothetically of course, that I was too run and name a photo of Fairy Bower today, do you think there will be more people out there tomorrow? Because I am constantly reminded by people NOT to name breaks that are of equal standing as the Bower.
Not the Mentawai's, nor any other foreign or hard-to-get-to spot, that's not what prompted this rumination and is a different matter entirely. But a well-known break that has it's own locals and has been on surfers' radars for many years. I've got quite a few old pics and stories of the Bower.
It wasn't a secret spot then and was named. It's even less of a secret spot now and can't be named. I don't think it's to do with numbers. I think it's to do with paranoia.
This and other sites' surf reports and web cams contribute way more to crowding than naming a break in a photo session ever could. I live on, well, near Vicco's surf coast. Used to be a guy in Melbourne would either have to have a mate in Torquay to tell him when the swell arrived or else he'd have to take a punt and sacrifice three hours round trip to go see for himself. Now the urban hordes can just hop on the net--or check their iPhones--and know in an instant whether and where it's pumping.
And as someone here has already pointed out, naming a break doesn't tell you how to find it. And if you already know how to find it, does seeing pics of some kick-ass session there from a week ago increase the likelihood that you'll surf there? Maybe a little, but not all that much I wouldn't think.
Hmmm, interesting topic.
Seems to me that a policy of naming breaks contributes little but risks much. We all love to see great shots, but what is gained by knowing the name of the featured spot? All that does is puts the locals offside and contributes to overcrowding. Those in the know will recognise a spot regardless of whether it’s named or not. Those not in the know will just have to do their homework! Ah, everyone loves a bit of mysto.
It’s true that a lot of spots have had a higher profile in the past. However, as many have pointed out, there’s more surfers now than ever, and more crowd pressure. Also what’s often forgotten is that many of us have short memories. Apart from the big name breaks, there are plenty of (maybe more fickle) spots that come in and out of prominence as time goes by.
Surfer A; “Geez mate, I surfed Spot X the other day, it was pumpinâ€
Surfer B: “Ah yeah, haven’t checked there for ages. Used to surf it all the time when I was youngerâ€
Where’s Surfer B gunna be surfing next time conditions are right for Spot X?
Same thing with mags and websites. I'd forgotten about Quarantine till you mentioned it Stu.
Yeah I hate locallism!
I started surfing a year ago and I have found it to be a life changing, awe-inspiring healthy obsession.
Anyone with common sense knows when they are out of their depth, but there comes times when you need to challenge yourself and you know you are ready, like for instance - tackling a reef break for the first time.
Locals need to give new comers a chance and not be paranoid. there's fun available for everybody! My view is that any new spot I tackle is done so with respect and caution and I look at all possible hazards and would have researched and educated myself before hand...
I'll give an example about localism and drop-in paranoia: I used to surf at Jan Juc until I built up the courage to tackle Birdrock and then move onto sparrows. I was out at sparrows on a beautiful summer day with only two others, both locals. One local didn't like the fact that I was around and turned every wave into a competition, so being keen, I competed and I'm sorry if I made this local "cock" feel uncomfortable.
The other local happened to be a very nice guy and was happy to share a yarn and some ins and out of this particular wave - I instantly had respect for this person. And every time a big set came through I would leave the bigger waves alone and be happy taking the smaller waves...
I learned a lot that day and became a better surfer
I recently picked up a book called Wave Finder Australia. It gives you detailed information about the break, best tides ec and how to get there. It indicates where there may be secret spots closeby to these already named breaks but doesn't entirely spill the beans. I think this is a happy medium because half the fun is finding new and different places, not just being spoon fed everything!!!
PS: Can anyone give me any hints on how to get to any outer great barrier reef breaks?
Please?
rialto-fresh you just contradicted yourself. Go explore the barrier reef and find it for yourself. If someone gives you tips via this medium everyone is privy to it.
Surf media definately increases awareness which increases crowds.
You wave it in someones face,photos or film of great waves people will be enticed to go and surf it and that impacts on that spot.
Its getting harder and harder to surf uncrowded waves due to the higher number of people surfing compared to 20 years ago. Its simple maths. Media exposure of surf spots spoon feeds the masses and leads to crowds.
Most locals I know dont mind out of town crew turning up depending on their attitude and more importantly how many they come with. Surf etiquette seems to be a thing of the past for many ( there are still some who get it). Take note boogers!
Sunny was spot on in regards to people banging off about the surf they scored.
If you blow off about a bank you scored how many will be showing up next week its offshore there. "Talk it up" Torquay is a classic for this mentality,getting worse by the new house and land package.
Mention the session on the surf site monthly low down and that draws even more attention to it.
People are not becoming more paranoid Stu,they are over having places blown out of the water so a just a few can avoid getting a real job.
Dog 69, hey i'm not quite sure how I contradicted myself...
But yeah, I don't think that the sport does need to be over publicised , but as for the common breaks that we already know about - what is the point in trying to make it secret again. But as for special secret spots, we'll there's obviously a reason why they are secret, weather it be because they are off the beaten track or simply expert breaks...
In my earlier post I just wanted to make a point of how locals can have really good attitudes towards newcomers, but unfortunately some don't. I think its a balance really, like if someone clearly doesn't know what they are doing out there they should be rightfully told to move on. Where as if having a territorial attitude is just about keeping others out because you don't wanna share is a bit crappy really. But once again, if a new comer has a respectable attitude then they might actually find they'll get somewhere...
Anyway, no disrespect to the local surf community... There's gotta be enough waves to go around, especially in our country...
I'm soon going on a trip up the entire east coast and i look forward to finding some secret spots of my own.. promise I won't tell anyone!