That old chestnut

lazydave's picture
lazydave started the topic in Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 7:48am

G'day all,

Thought I'd relay a story and see what other folks in the surfing community think about something I experience from time to time in the water.

To paint a picture, I'm 42 and ride a bodyboard. Always have. Since I was 12. I grew up bodyboarding on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria. I learnt early on to respect other wave riders in the water and use good wave ettiquette.

I've bodyboarded a fair chunk of the Australian coastline, as well as Spain, Portugal, France, Ireland, Scotland, Indo, Samoa, Maldives, USA etc etc. I can hold my own in most conditions.

I was out on Tuesday morning at a wave I've been surfing for 24 years. The waves were an inconsistent 2-3 foot. It was clean and for most of the session there were just two other blokes out. I was going left as this particular wave is predominantly a hollow left hander.

Towards the end of the session as the tide started to run out another surfer joined the line up. He was sitting out on the shoulder of the left hander and dropped in on me on his first wave, which although annoyed I let go.

On the next set wave I was more assertive and called early that I was going left. Regardless, the bloke continues to paddle for the wave, shuts down the wave and I have to quickly pull out of a section that would have otherwise pitched me into the reef.

The bloke then has a go at me for snaking and riding a bodyboard. Apparently we're all kooks. He'd caught maybe two in between set waves from out on the shoulder since I last caught a wave and I simply used my knowledge of the wave and conditions to pick the best of the set waves coming through from the actual take off spot.

I've found over the years that the most incompetent surfers tend to be the quickest to have a crack at bodyboarders for the apparent ease of riding a bodyboard. It's frustrating and although it's improved over the years I've been bodyboarding, there is still a small undercurrent of ignorance.

From my perspective, I love great surfing of any kind - just watched the J-Bay ASP event from start to finish. But I can't stand f-wits in the line up that are ignorant and even at 2-3 foot are surfing waves that are way beyond their level of competence and posing a risk to themselves and others in the water.

Keen to get a sense from the swellnet surfing community what they think about bodyboarders and this sort of stuff in the water. Could be I'm missing something!

Cheers,

Dave

Blowin's picture
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Blowin Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 2:56pm

Dave I think a dickhead is a dickhead mate - stand up , lay down , with a paddle - doesn't matter. What you've dealt with on this particular occasion is a run of the mill Shoulder Hopping Gronk. A common enough pest throughout the surfing world. Don't let them make you question yourself.
If you believe your worthy of your spot in the line up then you are.
Hatred of Lids is so 1989. The surfing world has opened its eyes and it's mind enormously since then and has come to the realisation that it's far more cosmopolitan to hate someone for where they're from than what they ride.
Hope you get some good ones next time.

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morris Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 3:16pm
lazydave wrote:

G'day all,

To paint a picture, I'm 42 and ride a bodyboard. Always have. Since I was 12. I grew up bodyboarding on the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria. I learnt early on to respect other wave riders in the water and use good wave ettiquette.

You say you grew up, but your still riding a boogie board??

Just joking mate, or am I?

Blowin's pretty much right, dickhead are dickheads, don't matter what they ride.

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groundswell Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 3:22pm

here here blowin. Although lids have to realize that its getting to your feet especially in critical barreling conditions is hard. you need expertise. you can stop riding a lid for two years get fat as hell and still get a good long in and out on your first wave at a heavy reef. On a surfboard it takes commitment skill, cat like reflexes,good diet, luck and other stuff to do the same shit.
A long as lidders realize this and standups realize that riding a lid isnt a sign of mental illness i think the surfing world will be happier.

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Blowin Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 3:25pm

You're so naughty Morris .

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Sheepdog Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 3:54pm

When you are paddling by, just say "Gday mate...You should come out to the take off spot... Heaps better out there... And it aint as hard as it looks.... You can have the next set wave...".... Wink, smile, and paddle on....

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thermalben Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 4:16pm

That's a great strategy SD! A good smile always seems to disarm even the grumpiest prick.

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Blowin Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 4:19pm

" I don't care if you're DC Purple cunt " - Maybe not always.

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thermalben Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 4:31pm

Ha! Good point.

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wellymon Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 4:34pm

hahaha, LazyDave, you're being lazy as champ, just stand up and get some respect ;)
No really mate, I don't give a rats arse if you lay on your little tummy or stand up on your little wee legs and with a paddle.
Respect goes along way.
Different waves are suited for all, for sure, But it doesn't take much to stand up and ride.
Give it a go champ, you might be amazed at what can happen.
DC purple don't give fuck.

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lazydave Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 6:15pm

Love the comment about the 80's. Tough times for a booger! Grown a thick skin over the years but really refreshing to hear the positive and humerous feedback.

Have ridden a short board a few times (badly) and a mal with a bit better an outcome, although fat peelers on a mal tend to lend themselves to not having to be overly skilled for great reward!

Agree that there is a high degree of skill in quickly getting to your feet and picking a line through the barrel. To be honest, most of my favorite surfers over the years have been stand ups. I like the lines great stand ups draw off their bottom turns and big solid power carves and have always tried to apply that in my bodyboarding. Was watching some classic old footage of Jerry Lopez the other day and that dude was all over it. Even Curren the other day at J-Bay destroyed the place.

Off to Sumbawa in a few weeks for 3 or so weeks so hoping to score a bit of supersucks/scar reef action. Be doing it lying down though like all the good things in life!

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wellymon Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 6:24pm
lazydave wrote:

Love the comment about the 80's.
Be doing it lying down though like all the good things in life!

Nice work lazydave.
Quote" Even if you are on the right track, you'll get runover if you sit there"
:)

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wellymon Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 6:31pm

Geez I missed that one lazydave....!
Quote Lazydave, "Like all good things in life, be doing it lying down though," hahhaaha
You are lazy mate, get on top and give her a good bash champ you might be amased ;)

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blow-in-9999 Thursday, 24 Jul 2014 at 10:42pm

Firstly I lid and tend to find most of my non beachbreak waves are body-board dominated so it doesn't come up too often.

This kind of "two take-off zones" effect can be a bit of a problem. Imagine a situation where your wave is a bit heavier and a competent surfer cant take waves at the body-boarders preferred take-off zone. He does however have a secondary take-off zone somewhat down the reef. If the body-boarder just paddles back to his take-off zone after every wave think to himself the surfer is just "shoulder hopping",at that point he takes his pick of a few setwaves. The stand-up on the other-hand is stuck taking as many leftovers as he can salvage because some dick-head on a body-board is paddling right past him to back-door the peak every fucking set.

Obviously this can vary from complete tool status to reasonable on both parties counts here. I've had people chase me to a new peak on a relatively empty beachy and then drop in on me. I've also seen body-boarders make certain breaks completely shitty for surfers by turning up in a group and back-dooring every set wave.

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shaun Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 4:44am

Gotta take my hat off to a body boarder that is still going past his mid twenty's, must be hard copping years of flak for doing some thing you love doing. Every time you paddle out to your average surf break your considered bottom of the pecking order, then you go off and find your own breaks, Koby will come along , call it Ours and ban you from surfing it.
It's no different to racism, homophobia, religious hate or judging someone cause they're fat, bald or have a disability. I feel for you, but when you paddle out I'll still put you at the bottom of the pile, cause I grew up listening to jokes slagging off boogers, I'm sorry but that's just the way I am, I know it's wrong but I don't think I'll live long enough to get enough therapy to get over it, it's not that I dislike you but your different so I feel uncomfortable when you paddle out and feel threatened when you outnumber me. I hope you understand, it's not you, it's me.

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caml Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 7:51am

Eternal problem that we could write books about . Normal surfer vs towsurfer,longboarder,goatboater,supper,windsurfer,kitesurfer Wat else? Oh yeah bodyboarder . So Dave it sounds like your attitude is a bit distorted but the guy dropping in on you is worse . How do they police "ours" anyway who bashes the offending booger when kobys not there ?

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stunet Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 8:02am

caml wrote:

How do they police "ours" anyway who bashes the offending booger when kobys not there ?

No-one. The lineup is pretty mellow when he's not around.

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yocal Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 8:38am

Surfers can't take off in the same position as boogers? that's such a farce. I get pissed off when people say 'that's a booger wave, surfers can't ride it '. There's no argument about that these days so if you are shoulder hopping then give respect to anyone deeper than you, they are having more of a dig than you are.

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caml Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:19am

Stu do boogers sneak in to catch a few ever ? Even Mitch rawlins got moved on by force for tryin to surf there . Heard kobys in bali so have any lidders dared ?

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lazydave Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:20am

Some great comments - especially about shoulder hopping. A good stand up can mix it at any break a booger is surfing and take off just as deep. Stayed at Secret Sumatra a few years back and surfed a lot at a wave called leftovers. Its known as a "bodyboarders wave" - It's a dredging shallow left hander over super shallow reef. Short but intense and powerful. We had a Portugese stand up out with us for most of our trip surfing backside which was incredible to watch. Fucker was so quick to his feet and from there looked like he was made of elastic as he contorted himself through each pit!

A lot of what I see when people shoulder hop is about them being out of their comfort zone. Reckon if more people knew their limits and worked on their wave riding before taking on heavier waves they'd progress quicker and be less of a risk to others in the water. I'll happily share a line up with anyone having a fair dinkum crack.

Used to surf with a bloke on a goat boat years ago that was crazy. Used to plow through line ups and get barrelled in the right conditions. Haven't seen him in years. Where do old goat boaters go when they stop surfing or die?

Pumped for a wave now. Hope you all score this weekend. Small but clean today in Vic.

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caml Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:22am

Yocal i Cant quite agree with you . I know of waves that boogers have paddled but never a standup . Do u care to prove your theory by paddling the right on your 5"10 ?

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goofyfoot Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:29am

Caml do you reckon anyone will eventually paddle the right? Is it paddleable?? If so who do you reckon it will be? John John is a obvious one

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stunet Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:41am

caml wrote:

Stu do boogers sneak in to catch a few ever ? Even Mitch rawlins got moved on by force for tryin to surf there . Heard kobys in bali so have any lidders dared ?

Yeah Camel, boogers surf it fairly regularly these days. I was there the morning Koby tried to run Mitch Rawlins over in the surf, that incident put the wind up a lot of boogers. Prior to that I'd had sessions with various lids, even Mike Stewart, out there, but then they all backed off.

Now they've come back and are surfing it but only when KA isn't around.

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lazydave Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 9:42am

Ryan Hardy paddled into the right on a booger a few years back. Was an article in one of the booger mags at the time. Stuff that - altogether another level of surfing.

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Sheepdog Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 10:28am

Got no time for glorified thugs......

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yocal Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 10:41am
caml wrote:

Yocal i Cant quite agree with you . I know of waves that boogers have paddled but never a standup . Do u care to prove your theory by paddling the right on your 5"10 ?

Ok granted,
My argument was coming from Blow-in-9999s post and from the perspective of the experiences i've had, none of which are in 15-20ft Slabs like the right. Appreciate that in the scheme of things you guys are pushing the limits of what is paddle-able on a surfboard and narrowing the gap.

In my opinion, if you are sitting deep and having a dig, you are entitled to be there. Stand-ups probably blow more waves than boogers when negotiating the drop. If you kook every wave then it might become apparent that you need to reappraise your capabilities and move out to the shoulder, but I'd rather see people having a go than writing off others saying 'only boogers can take-off from that deep' which I still hear a fair bit from lids and stand-ups alike.

Its a similar notion of respect to when there's people towing and people paddling at the same break, the paddlers should get preference over the towers.

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Sheepdog Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 12:03pm

First in best dressed.......If a bunch of boogers are already in the water when ya' rock up, tough tittys...... And if a bunch of surfers are already in the water when some boogers rock up, tough tittys....... If blokes are up early and are towing in when you paddle out cos' you sucked too much piss the night before, bad luck.... If you got up at 4.00am, and are out the back by yourself, then some tow in dudes roll up, the tow in dudes should honour your commitment...Just everyone show some fucken respect..... As for "running over" some bloke on a soft board with your pointy sharp finned stick, that's akin to a coward punch in a pub..... Pathetic....
And if you wanna join the circus of 150 mixed shortboarders/mals/tow ins/boogers at 8 foot currumbin, don't complain about the pickles on your big mac, cos they come with pickles....

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wellymon Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 12:06pm

Funny as this theory.
A: KA sounds like a c--t, to say the least :)
B: Boggers have their realm for sure.
C: Stradie is the clasic example on its day, quite often when is nasty and short boggers are the only ones getting waves, respect.
D: You guys are quite annoying tho ;) hahaha

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wellymon Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 12:08pm
Sheepdog wrote:

First in best dressed.......If a bunch of boogers are already in the water when ya' rock up, tough tittys...... And if a bunch of surfers are already in the water when some boogers rock up, tough tittys....... If blokes are up early and are towing in when you paddle out cos' you sucked too much piss the night before, bad luck.... If you got up at 4.00am, and are out the back by yourself, then some tow in dudes roll up, the tow in dudes should honour your commitment...Just everyone show some fucken respect..... As for "running over" some bloke on a soft board with your pointy sharp finned stick, that's akin to a coward punch in a pub..... Pathetic....
And if you wanna join the circus of 150 mixed shortboarders/mals/tow ins/boogers at 8 foot currumbin, don't complain about the pickles on your big mac, cos they come with pickles....

True Sheepio, You can always take the pickles out :)
Then its not a Big Mac is it...............

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shaun Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 12:32pm

I've only run into Koby once, told to fuck off as did every one else, figured we could abuse him as much as we liked as he wasn't going to do anything, as he would just add another five years onto his ban from the USA. Funny that now he's allowed to go to Hawaii he doesn't.

I don't get into this if you can paddle further inside it's your wave, if you want to take off deeper wait in line then when you get pole position paddle in further and take your pick. There are a lot of places in aus you'd get a wack behind the ear for pushing ahead. Works where I live anyway.

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udo Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 12:38pm

Was K A s charge assault police , if so I don't know how he can even get a U.S. visa ? then theres character grounds, bra boys gang ?

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Sheepdog Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 1:07pm

Yeah well all this "gang" bullshit..... Gangster wannabe's...... Yo' bitch...... Ma' hood.... Chillin......
What a wank . Aussie "gangstas" are the only gangstas in the world that get welfare every fortnight..... Livin' on the streets? Yeah right.... With 700 a fortnight thanks to the government.... Claytons gangstas..... Try the streets of East L.A if you think ya' tough..... No welfare after six months..... No money at all...... Hungry people with guns.....
"I got ma payment from Tony, even though I'm phony, Welfare rappin' but I need a turkey slappin, While the workers diggin ditches I'm hangn with ma bitches, I'm a walkin advertisement that'll have ya in stitches..... Rap that bitches...... ;)

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shaun Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 2:02pm
udo wrote:

Was K A s charge assault police , if so I don't know how he can even get a U.S. visa ? then theres character grounds, bra boys gang ?

yeah he was found guilty of assault , but the five years is up. I you google him he's just a glorified t-shirt seller living in Bali, the indos love the gangster stuff I suppose.

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wellymon Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 2:03pm

I know this is a little off topic, with rappers, gangsters etc, Bogger riders.....?

The other day I spent 24 hrs travelling home from the NW shelf from work, had no connecting flight early Monday morning from Learnmonth, hence getting the late arvo flight to Perth, then which I hate a red eye to Brissy. Caught the 2hr train ride at 0530 to Robina...?
Stopped at Beenleigh for five minutes staring out the window at two young white gangster wanna bees....? age 12 maybe 13.
The girl gave me the finger whilst I was just sitting on the train staring out the window into oblivion, whilst her homie fella came right up to the window and started threatening the Wellymon....?
Fuck me I honestly could not believe it! , my girl picked me up from Robina, I wanted to drive back to Beenliegh and give those little a cunts a bashing, Geez, Whats up with this whole hommie shit, young fuck heads trans fixed on the METH....? Watching hommie vids on TV, trying to be tough....?

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wellymon Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 2:04pm
shaun wrote:
udo wrote:

Was K A s charge assault police , if so I don't know how he can even get a U.S. visa ? then theres character grounds, bra boys gang ?

yeah he was found guilty of assault , but the five years is up. I you google him he's just a glorified t-shirt seller living in Bali, the indos love the gangster stuff I suppose.

Cock heads

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braudulio Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 2:30pm

Yes, No, Yes, ....

Nah, couldn't be bothered

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yocal Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 2:34pm
shaun wrote:

I don't get into this if you can paddle further inside it's your wave, if you want to take off deeper wait in line then when you get pole position paddle in further and take your pick. There are a lot of places in aus you'd get a wack behind the ear for pushing ahead. Works where I live anyway.

If everyone is at the peak having a dig, yeah I agree take your turn between eachother, but I can't see why you would sit on the shouler and wait for shoulder-hoppers to get their share before paddling back into position? Bearing in mind that this is only for critical waves, pointbreaks have a whole different heirarchy as do beach-breaks IMO.

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udo Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 4:35pm

Betcha Koby bangs Schapelle.

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wellymon Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 4:26pm

Betchy do

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braudulio Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 4:27pm

Who's Betchy?

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udo Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 4:36pm

Typo

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Sheepdog Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 5:35pm

"Betcha Koby bangs Schapelle."
Betcha sheepdog couldn't give a wet fart......... ;)

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caml Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 5:38pm

Stu ok thats nice to hear theres respect amongst the different slab barrell riders at last . And you other guys stop talking about kobes here . He has his own thread remember back to booger ettiquite. Oh yeah Ryan hardy booged paddling into the right

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blow-in-9999 Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 6:36pm
yocal wrote:

Ok granted,
My argument was coming from Blow-in-9999s post and from the perspective of the experiences i've had, none of which are in 15-20ft Slabs like the right. Appreciate that in the scheme of things you guys are pushing the limits of what is paddle-able on a surfboard and narrowing the gap.

In my opinion, if you are sitting deep and having a dig, you are entitled to be there. Stand-ups probably blow more waves than boogers when negotiating the drop. If you kook every wave then it might become apparent that you need to reappraise your capabilities and move out to the shoulder, but I'd rather see people having a go than writing off others saying 'only boogers can take-off from that deep' which I still hear a fair bit from lids and stand-ups alike.

Its a similar notion of respect to when there's people towing and people paddling at the same break, the paddlers should get preference over the towers.

Does anyone even have footage/pictures of decent (stand-up) paddle Supers? Nuggan? They even held the world tour comp at the latter.

Even the sunny coast had loads of waves which you don't see sticks at or they don't go as deep when I lived there.

More reasonably should lids really get all the waves because its easier to pull in deeper on one, most surfers out there aren't pros.

What Shaun said about the clap on ear is pretty true don't paddle to the peak in large parts SA / WA / Hawaii for example.

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Sheepdog Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 6:20pm

No one was talking about "kobes" till you brought him up, champ ;)

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stunet Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 6:38pm

blow-in-9999 wrote:

Does anyone even have footage/pictures of decent (stand-up) paddle Supers? Nuggan? They even held the world tour comp at the latter.

'Decent' sized Nuggan isn't a typical booger wave, it certainly ain't what it's like when it's smaller with all the side waves that lids love so much. I've paddled it a few times when it's big.

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blow-in-9999 Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 7:09pm

What are you calling "decent" sized?

You've also got "waves" like big kiama bombie

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Blowin Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 7:01pm

Where is Nuggan ? By Supers you don't mean super suck do you ?

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blow-in-9999 Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 7:12pm

Southcoast nsw somewhere between Batemans and Jervis bays. The exact locations are pretty easy to find but I'd rather err on the side of caution here.

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shaun Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 7:19pm

Yocal the world I surf in is very different to yours, hopefully we never cross paths. How can a booger be having a dig if he is not even putting in the effort to stand up.
Caml why should boogers be the only one to mock kobieclown

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stunet Friday, 25 Jul 2014 at 8:26pm

blow-in-9999 wrote:

What are you calling "decent" sized?

10ft+. When it starts to break on the outer bommie.