• The fantasy images of the Mentawai are anything but.

    If ever there was the end of the rainbow for a surfer, it is here. The only guaranteed surf trip on earth. Anyone with the guts to get up and go, be it a charter or a camp stay is going to experience the most extraordinary waves of their lives in the most extraordinary environment of their lives. And it is very, very real. Though all the Utopian photos have made the Mentawai feel almost pedestrian, transporting the human body from anyone’s home to tiny islands one hundred nautical miles off the coast of West Sumatra remains no small feat.

    Yet contrary to the images we see in the media, the Mentawai is not the domain of the top pro surfers. Their visits are rare and stunted and mostly a falsehood in that every single heartbeat is spent performing in front of the cameras like trained seals.

    No, the common man reigns supreme here in numbers and passion. Year after year. The Mentawai is not a playground for the pros, it is a stadium for the unknown soldiers.

    All photos Federico Vanno - @liquidbarrel

  • When it comes to business side of the boat charter business, Chris Scurrah is the smartest man in the room. With university degrees in both economics and finance, Scurrah fuelled his passion early on setting up his three-boat operation in Padang from an abandoned, waterfront Dutch Bank next to a private pier he built himself out of salvaged wood. And today, all these years later, enjoying his success, Chris Scurrah is still pulling in with the passion of a schoolboy.

  • Rio Waida is Indonesia’s new great hope. Coming of age in an era where a career in surfing is obtainable if you work hard enough, Waida splits his time between tough training and aggressive surfing. Hungry, the Mentawai is the perfect place for Waida to quietly perfect his new skills before unleashing himself on the world. Growing in power and strength, at 17 years old, he is already an inspiration for a new generation of Indonesian surfers.

  • The vast majority of the breaks of the Mentawai are still only accessible by boat. And the savvy Captain will always have his own quiver of secret spots for his guests. So secret that quite often, GPS’s and mobile phones are collected from the passengers before you even get near these breaks. These are the spots that still reflect the original spirit of adventure of these islands.

    Here, two unknown soldiers paddle out into unridden perfection, sworn to secrecy, somewhere to the south.

  • Sometimes the absolute symmetry of the waves in the Mentawai belies their bone crushing power. Particularly this spot; more serious injuries have come out of this spot than any other. Completely exposed to the Indian Ocean it is the most consistent spot in the entire archipelago. Yet despite the danger, it’s call has proven irrestistible for decades.

  • In the land of lefts, the right breaking waves of the Mentawai are often configured on these reefs to carry more consequence. And sly clean-up sets, twice the size of the day, are common. Stories abound of dinghy drivers getting caught unawares, with surfers bailing out, preferring to take their chances on their boards.

    Make no mistake, perfection here comes at a dear price no matter who you are.  

  • On the biggest day in years at the famed Lance’s rights, a few brave souls took it on. Looking more like inside Sunset, Richie Schmidt took off on the first wave of the day way too deep…and almost pulled it.

    Such is the rifling perfection of Lance’s that one can come from impossible depths. That’s the thing, there is always hope here. But the payment for failure can empty your soul.

  • Tatsuya Fukagawa took off on the next one and wished he hadn’t. Ejecting at giant Lances Rights is more a leap of faith than a tactical move.

  • Tatsuya Fukagawa, after a nightmare trip over the falls, across the cheese grater reef and into the lagoon, manned up, paddled back out and picked off the wave of the season. Sometimes getting back up on that horse is your only choice. And such is the undocumented heroism and adventure that awaits any unknown soldier that answers the Mentawai’s siren song.

    At this point, you must ask yourself…do you have it in you?

    Make the call. Because you may think you have time…but you don’t.

     

    WORDS// MATT GEORGE
    IMAGES// FEDERICO VANNO

     

Comments

Horas's picture
Horas's picture
Horas Friday, 7 Jul 2017 at 10:57pm

It takes guts to go on a charter or be spoon fed at a camp? Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha and more of that ,onya mate,fair dinkum!

zenagain's picture
zenagain's picture
zenagain Friday, 7 Jul 2017 at 11:19pm

Being the only surfer in the world who has never been to Indo, Rifles is at the top of my bucket list.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 10:22am

Zen believe me you won't be alone when you get there.

carpetman's picture
carpetman's picture
carpetman Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 3:57am

I'm not sure I understand the intention of the "article".
Reads like dribble and contradicts itself at every second paragraph.
The place was crazy busy through May and June. I saw 7 boats at thunders, and heard of worse scenarios nearby. 40 guys at HTs on average days. No mention of crowds in the write up. Talks about average joes then shows photos of semi-pros. Reads more like a half cut advitoral avoiding the negatives to encourage people to visit.

Never surfed rifles and would love to, except it's on every single other persons must surf list and it's fickle as fuck.

geoffrey's picture
geoffrey's picture
geoffrey Sunday, 9 Jul 2017 at 6:17pm

is thunders the swell magnet go-to spot when theres no swell?

garethg's picture
garethg's picture
garethg Monday, 10 Jul 2017 at 10:10am

I was there during this swell ( on the Mahoganey ) we pretty well surfed on our own the whole 10 days - except for the last day at Telescopes.

We had an awesome trip and would highly recommend it to anyone....

Blowin's picture
Blowin's picture
Blowin Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 11:07am

Pretty sure the point is that you may be able to float around the ments on a boat so luxurious that Captain Stubing would feel inadequate , but that doesn't mean that when the moment comes and you're peering over the edge of maxing HTs with the reef barely covered with water below that you are going to go.

Still a long way from anywhere and if you get hurt you are likely in a very bad situation very rapidly. Some heavy waves up there and there was still empty line ups when I was there a couple of years ago. Whether you want to catch them when the moment arises is up to you .

indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming's picture
indo-dreaming Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 6:01pm

"And the savvy Captain will always have his own quiver of secret spots for his guests. So secret that quite often, GPS’s and mobile phones are collected from the passengers before you even get near these breaks. These are the spots that still reflect the original spirit of adventure of these islands.

Here, two unknown soldiers paddle out into unridden perfection, sworn to secrecy, somewhere to the south."

This is the kind of thing we believed 15-20 years ago because it was probably true back then, reality is all these so called secret spots are known to all pretty much all charter boat operators who have taken countess guest to these waves so they are not exactly secret, they are just less surfed because Thunders is the last stop for many charters because going further south eats into their fuel budget and the waves are generally a a little more fickle further south anyway.

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Sunday, 9 Jul 2017 at 10:00am

Both trips I've done we've gone further south and fkn scored big time with no one else around! Like you said, I agree that some charters are more about conserving fuel then hooking a crew up with empty goodness. Deep South holds the key to your empty perfect wave dream... if your caption ain't a tight ass!

coldwatersurfer's picture
coldwatersurfer's picture
coldwatersurfer Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 8:03pm

Just came back from the ments less than a month ago. Yeah the bigger name spots were crowded HT, Maccas Thunders etc, but having a small boat that's been operating there almost since the beginning definitely paid off. We had days were we were the only boat in the water with 4-6ft perfection.
But even on those crowded days the crowd would ebb and flow. At one point we were one of 7 boats out at thunders yet only 8 people in the water, and some boats were even kind when they happened onto us surfing alone they would usually wait 40 odd minutes before paddling out.
Wouldn't change any of it best experience of my life.

udo's picture
udo's picture
udo Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 8:23pm

Which boat ?

oldgreg's picture
oldgreg's picture
oldgreg Saturday, 8 Jul 2017 at 9:29pm

I've never been, but just booked tonight to head up there in September. CWS ebb and flow sounds good as I'm also on a small boat . Doesn't matter where you go these days, there's gunna be a crowd somewhere, but the anticipation of what I might find up there is gunna make my time at work much more enjoyable . Life is a journey and even if I surf crowded HT's or some break I've never heard of, pumping, with no one else around, it will be better than the breaks I get to surf on the east coast between work, kids, sport and family commitments . Thanks for the article Swellnet; it got me pumped and I also got a new board for the trip so I'm stoked

mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner's picture
mibs-oner Sunday, 9 Jul 2017 at 10:02am

Treat yourself to a couple of freshies mate, you've earned it. Just don't tell the mrs

mugofsunshine's picture
mugofsunshine's picture
mugofsunshine Sunday, 9 Jul 2017 at 4:16pm

I get the feeling Matt George gets off on his own words.

That said, Scuzz is a flippin' champion.

memlasurf's picture
memlasurf's picture
memlasurf Monday, 10 Jul 2017 at 1:30pm

Yeah he comes from a good spot as well an old son of the Peninsula.