SN Home Page, Wave Of The Day

Indeed!

When I first read the thread heading on the home page; SN Home Page, Wave Of... I thought it was going to read "SN homepage, wave of goodbye" and within the hour we were going to see the brand spanking SN.

I might be spending too much time on here.

It's a killer photo, eh? Not technically perfect but a magical shot nonetheless. If you want to see all the WOTDs from the last month just click on the WOTD image. It's the same as this link: http://www.swellnet.com.au/galleries/waveoftheday

And yeah, we're not far away from launching. Think the developer got a bit ahead of himself with dates but we're almost there.

Beautiful pic on today's wotd.

J bay Lineup without RedHotPokers? C'mon bru.

Ray Shirlaw wrote:

J bay Lineup without RedHotPokers? C'mon bru.

Add a "ces" to your "bru" and you'll get the correct lineup Ray!!!

Red Hot Pokers (Kniphofia sp.), I don’t see any. What I do see and expect on that coast is a few (Aloe sp. ) Plant Detective.

That point break with aloe's in the foregorund is Bruces, or at least part of the point. I'm one of that pack, surfed 6 hrs that day over the low tide 2 weeks ago Wednesday. 4 of us trading barrels for 2 hours at mid tide dropping before others paddled up and joined us. Rare to get an east swell in there, happens only a few times a year. Can only imagine that point when it used to have sand on the dunes...its a 2km long razor straight headland.

Mishad. Good stuff. How’s things, long time no hear ? Very interesting..
You are correct, would’ve been way better sand on dunes previous to first settlement. With people comes plants, some good and some local, others mostly exotic or out of their natural range in South Africa. Plants that permanently remain in those systems, corrupt the system. We don’t need to plant into coastal sand dunes (for amenity value, stabilisation or erosion) wave energy and sand deposition (both uninterrupted by us) always finds some kind of equilibrium, flora and fauna finds niches, life goes on, system gets washed away, resets and the whole cycle is catalytic. It’s how the system works.

Happy to be corrected Chaps. Are there still plans for a large sand accumulating project on that stretch of coast?

Ray Shirlaw wrote:

Happy to be corrected Chaps. Are there still plans for a large sand accumulating project on that stretch of coast?

Ray Shirlaw. I’m in Oz, i read a lot but haven’t heard anything about that matter, but id like to. Cheers.

Ray Shirlaw wrote:

Happy to be corrected Chaps. Are there still plans for a large sand accumulating project on that stretch of coast?

I don't think there's much sand left to accumulate Ray. These photos show the complete unregulated degradation of natural habitat all in the name of being able to sip a cab sav from your over priced accommodation.



droplet

Garyg1412, Ray Shirlaw, Mishad.
Hi guys, same plight, different location. Global syndrome, wanting to be so close to the water as to nearly touch it. It’s the same scenario for coasts worldwide, build too close to the ocean, disrupt wind and sand flows in both directions, offshores and onshores and we know what happens.
I’m hoping, with all the knowledge we have accumulated from observations of past major errors, that any type of planning where people and dwellings are proposed, that first and foremost, coastal dune systems are the most important discussion to be had, after all, they are the first line of defence, enduring occupation of land beyond primary dune scrub relies on this functioning process.
Don’t tinker with natural systems.
Mishad. Where you surfed at Bruce’s looks amazing, spent most of last evening Google Earthing along that region of your coast, I see what you mean when you get easterly swell. Nice.

Hi Alfred, Gary and Ray
So brief history, I'm an aussie from Perth originally who moved there only in 2012 (been visiting regularly since 2000) to chase a women, then when that didn't last I stayed for the uncrowded surf and kite surfing conditions. 10 years later is more crowded and the Aussie dollar doesn't go as far as it used to, but still less busy than your typical surf spot in the developed west. Kite surfing is my main method to escape the human element, wind and swell are a constant in this region. There are quality waves I surf alone or with a select 1 or 2 which I liken to how the SW region of Margs used to be in the 80s and early 90s.

Yeah so development has fucked the sand movement and only a week ad a bit ago I was chatting to a mate and environmental scientist who did a modelling study on the drift of sediment from Thyspunt to the west to other side of the Kromme river (north side of ST Francis town). Interesting read if you're interested. Basically the original sand source from the Dune system (that replenished itself over cycles as you indicated) goes way back to west towards Oyster Bay, which is been now blocked or stabilised by development. Sad as that may be, the Kromme river, river mouth and canal system across the bay is overloaded with sand with no way to escape. So what we are seeing is whatever dribble of sand that is left and available floating around, makes its way down hugging the headland, and then hugs the coast as it tracks north towards the river mouth, where the tidal movements drag it into the estuary system, but it doesn't find its way back out again as effectively as it used because guess what? At the same time as developing the headland, farmers and whoever else has damned up the river up stream creating a lack of water flow down stream to flush out the build up of sand/sediment in the estuary system.

Local surfing group have made suggestions, reached out to consultant firms to draw up modeling for construction of groynes along the main beach stretch between the headland and the river mouth the trap the sand flow and stabilise the beach (as its also dissappeared - no sand left, they build rock revettments which are an ugly band aid to protect the water front properties. It's a shambles to be honest. Since the local govt are no where to be seen and can't provide basics like clean water or electricity or security with any reliability, the local home owners associations (private home owners) have had to rally, get organised and foot the bill for this. There are a few Nimbys holding up the process to get the EIAs approved for the first groyne construction which would be a form of a test pilot for future planned remedial development. What they are hoping for is to stem of flow of sand along the beach to at least create a beach buffer again. What we as surfers are hoping for it to create new waves (potentially world class) as a secondary effect, so surfers will be very much involved in the planning and design phase.

So the plan is to build the first groyne, see how it affects the sand movements, grow the beach width and based on the success/failures of that design more for them along the same stretch (multiple surf spots created).

Another factor which needs to occur is a new source of sand to replenish what was lost along the headland. Well the Kromme estuary has an abundance of trapped sand which is creating problems to the canals there plus encroaching on wetland habitats etc. Some small scale dredging is already taking place but it's not enough to make much difference. We advocate for the construction of the groyne/s AND also a mechanism poweful enough to pump out the sand, then by pipeline across the bay out to an outlet just down from the harbour entrance located at the top of the headland. (see google earth to understand what I mean) This combination could see a complete transformation of the headland sand deposits, beaches and surf conditions in the area, bring alot of surf tourism (mixed feelings) to the area to offset the cost, with the town getting it's beaches back, the houses saved and everyones happy. Problem is the non-surfing, or inland dwelling faction of the home owners don't see a bennefit to them directly of money spent on coastal engineering projects so there are stallings happening in regards to funding to get this projects off the ground. That and Nimbys north of the Kromme river holding up the EIA approvals cos of concern that their beaches will be eroded as a result which is a myth borne out of ignorance of the science behind the modelling and observations for whats happening to sand in the area.

Mishad. Hi mate, thanks for that great synopsis of your plight. I’m going to delve deeper and do some reading, appears as though this same scenario is alive and well all over the worlds wave action coastlines and in many cases, so called ‘developed’ Western countries. We have much to be held accountable for and much to learn. All the best, AW.

Superman wins Powerball...Salute Tim #1 Swellnet!
https://www.swellnet.com/sites/default/files/styles/swellnet_large_wm_63...

garyg1412 wrote:

Ray Shirlaw wrote:

Happy to be corrected Chaps. Are there still plans for a large sand accumulating project on that stretch of coast?

I don't think there's much sand left to accumulate Ray. These photos show the complete unregulated degradation of natural habitat all in the name of being able to sip a cab sav from your over priced accommodation.



droplet

Garyg1412. Hi. Couldn’t help myself. The colour photo in the middle showing an overview of the area. I expanded it, what stood out the most was the whole occupied area didn’t appear to be a town or a settlement, from my perspective .There’s a hell of a lot of very large houses, spread out on land, some huge and with pools dotted everywhere, some distance from the harbour. Looks like a lot of wealthy folk either live there or they are rented out or AirBNB type set ups. Do you know much about the town vibe ?

Alfred I grew up (70's to 80's) frequenting the old part of St Francis bay where all the thatch houses are on the canals. Even back then it was wealthy folk only and luckily I had a few wealthy mates so the vibe was very much a holiday type thing for me. I have no idea nowadays but the joint looks jam packed. There were no houses at all along the point back then and they've done a good job fucking it up in the 30 odd years since I was there. I think the general consensus is that the lack of sand nowadays has affected the quality of the wave but can't comment as the last time I surfed it was in 1985.
Here's a link to an article from Surfline on the history. What I'd give for a time machine!!
https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-real-story-of-cape-st-francis/63424

garyg1412 wrote:

Alfred I grew up (70's to 80's) frequenting the old part of St Francis bay where all the thatch houses are on the canals. Even back then it was wealthy folk only and luckily I had a few wealthy mates so the vibe was very much a holiday type thing for me. I have no idea nowadays but the joint looks jam packed. There were no houses at all along the point back then and they've done a good job fucking it up in the 30 odd years since I was there. I think the general consensus is that the lack of sand nowadays has affected the quality of the wave but can't comment as the last time I surfed it was in 1985.
Here's a link to an article from Surfline on the history. What I'd give for a time machine!!
https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/the-real-story-of-cape-st-francis/63424

Garyg1412. Thanks very much for that small history lesson. Much appreciated. I’ll check out that link you’ve posted. BTW, if you are booking a ‘time machine’ , please book a gondola for two, I’ll join you. All the best.